Broken crank bolt/nut - Page 2 - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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post #21 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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LOL I told you!!!

You can search for the guide on how to do the e starter delete it's here somewhere!

I whould just gut out the starter you have get a long bolt sandwich all the starter stuff together with washer's and stuff to get the spacing right the tack weld the pawl cage so it can't slip. Or just buy an intire new engine!

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post #22 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

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Originally Posted by MrKitty View Post
LOL I told you!!!

You can search for the guide on how to do the e starter delete it's here somewhere!

I whould just gut out the starter you have get a long bolt sandwich all the starter stuff together with washer's and stuff to get the spacing right the tack weld the pawl cage so it can't slip. Or just buy an intire new engine!

You were right!!! Lol!

Ok Iíll research gutting out the starter as you mentioned. I have some questions. A side of me loves this bike probably because Iím familiar with it and partly because we owned 2 of these bikes at one time and this one was considerably faster. I even replaced the other bikes motor with a new one and still this bike was considerably faster. Compression I guess.

But then a side of me wants to maybe consider not waisting anymore time on this one as it has so many broken issues... and maybe start over with another bike that has some of the features that I would really like. Once I drove another persons pocket bike that sat up a little taller and had bigger wheels/tires and that thing felt so much safer at higher speeds (30-35mph)

So my questions to you are;
-what bike do you have?
-whatís the engine size? 2stroke?
-whatís your opinion about 4 strike engines?
-what do you feel is the best bang for the dollar with
The features I mentioned?
- if I do decide to purchase is used a good way to go?
Where is a good place to buy used vs new?

Just to clarify here is a pic of my red pocket bike in the background with the body kit on. So as you can see itís kinda small with small wheels...

Thanks for your advise
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Last edited by salzamani; 2 Weeks Ago at 12:48 PM.
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post #23 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I have an Italian bike, a Grc RRZ 3 and would also recommend an Italian or a Blata, used are of course much cheaper, but it is a bit difficult to get something in the USA.
To my bike it has a water-cooled 50cc 2 stroke BZM engine with approx. 16ps.
At the moment I've a grc gp racing for sell. (Pic 2 and 3) it has a 40cc air-cooled BZM engin with approx. 10hp
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Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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post #24 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I have a X7 it's a basket case right now but I have it all well not the tank cover 😞.
15895751014262751351264642828976_1589575126738.jpg

Then I have a China dirt bike it doesn't look good right now but I assure you putting 30 minutes at a time and bolting it back together it's a good bike I just replaced the CDI box.
15895752847051548664458926297313_1589575310476.jpg

I have a mini quad with a full race cag engine on it just needs the rear axal put back together...
15895754295592440736495241711970_1589575466907.jpg

The Savage 650
15895755553091837860322804830340_1589575573553.jpg

And my cag ummmm...... LOL
Lmao it's being revamped...
158957569783747338931845475872_1589575720994.jpg

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post #25 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Redomeing her for race fuel 😀👍IMG_20200515_214648457_1589604513645.jpg

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post #26 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Check it out
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post #27 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I Just finished fixing my dirt bike check it out
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post #28 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

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I Just finished fixing my dirt bike check it out

You had a much more productive day then me. That looks a lot better 👍🏼

I waisted 2 hours alone just separating that shaft that is stuck in the middle of the starter armature with the copper wrapped around it. I finally got it and I donít even think I can make use of it because I had welded that nut on to the front of it which as a result of that makes it pretty useless. Iím going to have to figure this out some how. I think at this point itís best to eliminate the e-starter all together and just find a way to bolt that on somehow...
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post #29 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Can't you just grind it flat ?

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post #30 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

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Can't you just grind it flat ?


Whatcha talk’n bout Willis? Are you suggesting grinding the weld off? That’s a great idea but then I would need a replacement Starter pawl bolt. I can’t find one of those anywhere. Have you seen anyone selling one?

Last edited by salzamani; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:39 AM.
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post #31 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

My starter pawl is the rectangular one. Would it be a good idea to covert it to the round style. If I did my puller starter would need to be changed right? Does that cause issues with my engine type? Mounting the pull starter?
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post #32 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I was just going to say that

Your going to want to convert it over to GS moon style pull start then you are going to go GS Moon then a nut then the starter shaft ( starter that you know made into a spacer ) bolt it onto the crank then tack weld it together take it back off weld it up grind do some other various fabing then it will last forever!!

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Last edited by MrKitty; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:05 PM.
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post #33 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
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My starter pawl is the rectangular one. Would it be a good idea to covert it to the round style. If I did my puller starter would need to be changed right? Does that cause issues with my engine type? Mounting the pull starter?
You have a pretty sweet pocket bike. And the piston Port engines are very good for low-end power. Top-end end too if you modified correctly. I had an X1 that had a piston port and for the life of me I could not get the Armature out of that housing to modify it. I ended up getting it to work but I ended up finding a used 49cc with only a pull start for $65, I believe these engines online go for 150. Every bikes can break. At least you know what's wrong with this one. If it were me I would just keep working on this one. Yeah liquid cool bikes are great but they are a lot more upkeep especially in areas that get below freezing. I personally do not like dealing with the water cooled engines. Air-cooled for me is the way to go
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post #34 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

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You have a pretty sweet pocket bike. And the piston Port engines are very good for low-end power. Top-end end too if you modified correctly. I had an X1 that had a piston port and for the life of me I could not get the Armature out of that housing to modify it. I ended up getting it to work but I ended up finding a used 49cc with only a pull start for $65, I believe these engines online go for 150. Every bikes can break. At least you know what's wrong with this one. If it were me I would just keep working on this one. Yeah liquid cool bikes are great but they are a lot more upkeep especially in areas that get below freezing. I personally do not like dealing with the water cooled engines. Air-cooled for me is the way to go

Thanks buddy your input is very valuable to me. I will take your advice. Yeah I just gotta figure out this modification on the elimination of the electric starter and that broken part the point at the mount. Any idea what that part is called? It broke once on the right side a couple years back and I modified it by mounting it to the one of the electric starter bolts. Now it has broken on the left side. Here is a couple of pics revealing those breaks. The first pic is of the left sides break that just happens a couple days ago(red arrow). The second pic shows the the previous break with the red arrow and the modification that I made to remount to the electric start bolt in the green arrow.
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post #35 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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The suspension pocket bikes break the motor mount lugs when the chain is to tight I use a ratchet strap to botem out the rear suspension then adjust the chain

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post #36 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

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The suspension pocket bikes break the motor mount lugs when the chain is to tight I use a ratchet strap to botem out the rear suspension then adjust the chain



Hey MR. Kitty how's your day going?



no kidding bottom out the suspension first then adjust the chain ha. yeah I think what probably caused this particular recent break is that I had the motor out a couple weeks ago as I was taking a closer look at the Starter and performed the weld on the starter pawl bolt and when I re-mounted the motor I didn't use loctite on the bolts and one of the bolts on the right side backed out and got loose which put more stress on the left and caused the break on the left side. I forgot how important loctite is...
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post #37 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Dang that sucks ☹️

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post #38 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

Ok I kept pretty busy today here is where Iím at. I got the motor pulled out and almost completely apart. Iím stuck at these two parts still being joined and I donít know how to get them apart. Anybody know how they separate? Here is a couple pics. The second pic shows the side that I suspect might be pressed on somehow but Iím not sure. Third pic is a close up of it and the fourth pic the opposite side. Any suggestion?
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post #39 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I made a puller to pull off the flywheels out of a peace of flat steal all I did was drill 3 holes then welded a nut to the center hole so I can use a bolt to tighten and push on the crank then I load it up with pressure and give the bolt a wack and the flywheel will pop right off then you can take the rest apart

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post #40 of 81 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Broken crank bolt/nut

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I made a puller to pull off the flywheels out of a peace of flat steal all I did was drill 3 holes then welded a nut to the center hole so I can use a bolt to tighten and push on the crank then I load it up with pressure and give the bolt a wack and the flywheel will pop right off then you can take the rest apart
Ok Kitty I need you man. Here is a pic of what I made. Itís a bracket for a garge door opener that I straightened and drilled a third hole in the center. Welded the nut on and I screwed in the 2 clutch bolts on the outside threaded on the bolt in the middle hole with the welded nut. I really couldnít get it to budge man. Here is a pic.
Does everything look right to you?

Also whatís up with that small little opening that Iím pointing at with the arrow. Is that like a C-clip or something? Iíve tried to stick a small screw driver in there in case there is a C-clip to just pop it open but it really doesnít do anything...Does all the flywheels you have have that opening also? Do I have to really just go for it and man handle it to get the flywheel to break loose?

P.s Iím such a bad welder. You got any advise? Iím using this Hobart handler 125 itís a mug welder. Do you think that is sufficient for these jobs?
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