Condition of clutch - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019 Thread Starter
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Hello everyone

I'm going to make a start on the engine on my Blata B1
In a effort to try and keep costs down for the project
What do you think of the condition of the clutch
It looks like it has lots of pad still
When it's been cleaned up im thinking it should be ok to stick it back in

Any thoughts. Cheers
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Last edited by Maird79; 01-04-2019 at 09:10 AM.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019
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if there is pad it's still good in my opinion

Faster then a speeding E Revo
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019
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Re: Condition of clutch

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Originally Posted by Maird79 View Post
Hello everyone

I'm going to make a start on the engine on my Blata B1
In a effort to try and keep costs down for the project
What do you think of the condition of the clutch
It looks like it has lots of tread still on the shoes. When it's been cleaned up a bit I'm thinking it should be ok to stick it back in

Any thoughts. Cheers
Springs look cooked to hell..Pads are ok but are misadjusted aswell…One arm is a lot more closer to the bell then the other 2 but all 3 aren't set the same.

Looks like a novice rider was riding it.Theres a reason theyre called racing bikes...LOL

You want to stab the throttle and just hold on and maneuver...Blipping the throttle sounds cool but really isnt.

You see the toll it takes on clutch springs....Over time the metal and clutch abrasive is gonna start to wear away at the crank seal.its best to remove the debris like you mentioned with brake parts cleaner then spot lube the seal with an oiler pen

Id still buy a new clutch and keep the old one for a spare..

Good Luck

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Last edited by CAM2; 01-03-2019 at 07:21 PM.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advise👨‍🔧👍
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019
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Just take a look to the end of the arms of the clutch there is a small nose, so there is only 1- 1,5mm material is left.
The clutchbell should be only 1-2mm bigger than the clutcharms.
The springs 😅😅 a little rusty.

Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019 Thread Starter
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I'm thinking follow cam2 advise and get new clutch and use the old one for spares . Didn't want to buy a new one if it could be helped. Because the parts list was getting lengthy. Just 1 clutch puller is like £25
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019
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When you buy a new clutch, you can mad the clutchpuller from the old groundplate of the old clutch.
In the pics i made it for cage clutch but same way works with blata rep clutches.
In the middle i weldet an M 8 nut.
In the blataclutcheplate are already three holes you must only threading a M 5 or a M 6
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Get your kick with 2 stroke mix

Last edited by Chrisi; 01-04-2019 at 09:03 AM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019 Thread Starter
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Wow🤔 so I can make a clutch puller from the old clutch? Good idea👍
But I would still need to buy a clutch remover first wouldn't I ?
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019 Thread Starter
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Which type of lubricant do you use in the oiler pen to lube crank seals. Thanks
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Cut 3-threads, turn screws's into like on the pic, when screw's hit the crankcase the turne them only a step, then the next and so on. So can get it off for the first time

For the first run give the oilseals some 2 strokeoil and thats it.
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Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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Re: Condition of clutch

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Which type of lubricant do you use in the oiler pen to lube crank seals. Thanks
I use Cerflon.Its a wet Teflon with ceramic that dries and stays where its put and doesnt collect clutch dust like 2 stroke oil does and its twice as slick too...........

Cerflon ? Cerflon ? Ceramic Reinforced Fluoropolymer

Another thing I use is Next Dimension white graphite.Its a chain lube sold by most Honda dealerships..It works excellent on chains too..Way better than chain wax.

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Last edited by CAM2; 01-04-2019 at 12:48 PM.
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Re: Condition of clutch

The B1 / C1 clutch is on a straight shaft with key, it should be pretty easy to get it to slide off. I use 3 in 1 oil in a little squeeze can, on everything, cylinder, piston, bearings and seals when I am rebuilding. I over heated my C1 clutch and a pad came off and wedged its self between the other pad and bell, I though I blew it up at first.

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019 Thread Starter
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Hi
Thanks for the diy clutch guide. Hope I got it right. What length in mm do the 3 bolts need to be
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019 Thread Starter
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Hopefully once I blowtorch and liquify the loctite it should come off🙏
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Re: Condition of clutch

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Hopefully once I blowtorch and liquify the loctite it should come off🙏
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maird79 View Post
Hi
Thanks for the diy clutch guide. Hope I got it right. What length in mm do the 3 bolts need to be



Long enough to make contact with the crankcase but theres a huge risk to doing it wrong which is a cracked case..

Heres what Id do if i had to go that route.,,,

Put descent even pressure on all 3 screws then hit the crank snout end til it gets to around 150-160 degrees or you hear the clutch mount pop from the crank.

If no pop give the center screw some more pressure and that should get it to release while being held securely..

Those engines run up to 230 degrees aircooled and 200 watercooled to give you an idea on the kinda indirect heat the seal can take....

you can also do it with shorter screws just enough to hold the plate but then you need something to stop the crank from spinning...


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Last edited by CAM2; 01-06-2019 at 05:33 PM.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks 👍
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Re: Condition of clutch

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Thanks 👍
Oh and you dont have to weld the nut...just hold the nut with a box wrench and turn the bolt.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019 Thread Starter
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What's the length in mm
Of the middle hexagon screw
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Re: Condition of clutch

You need lock nuts on the adjustment screws to keep it from turning. I would get new springs there under $20, and I would grind half the alum lips down to give you more pad thickness so it down hit the bell. Take the clutch & arms off to modify and clean everything, any decent hardware has metri nuts & bolts. You can buy just the clutch arms w/ pad in a set. BZM has clutches for it too. On my GRC GP avatar photo I found a new $175 BZM racing clutch for $68, I snapped it up so fast, lol. This is a real B1 Blata right??

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....

Last edited by EPR; 01-06-2019 at 11:24 PM.
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50-60mm is long enough

Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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