Motor identification help please - Page 4 - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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post #61 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Okay. I found a 19mm carburetor, but no matching manifold to allow it to bolt on...

20190817_100154_1565997954816.jpg

I then measured the one on it. I found out 2 things:

1) it's about 14mm
2) it was broken at the clamping part.

20190817_101407_1565998038031.jpg

I'm not sure when the brake appeared, or if it was always like that (I don't think so?). However I decided to replace it, as it had potential to leak air.

I found another 14mm carburetor that was incomplete and somehow managed to take the best parts from both and make a functional carburetor.

This seams to have made a big improvement.

So once I sort out the gearing ratio on the rear (front was already a 6 tooth unfortunately) , I think I'll be in a better place.
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post #62 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I found these 3 different clutches. Which is the best one?

20190817_111335_1565998440678.jpg
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post #63 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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https://youtu.be/TyU0pkPi-oI


Got more power out of it with the different carburetor...way better.

Also keeping the tank full helps a lot, as it was starving for fuel when low, due to side to side sloshing in the tank affecting the fuel supply.

I'm pretty happy with it now. Just a sprocket swap to 78 and I'll call it done.
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post #64 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Normally a threearm clutch should give better grip but these are all China clutches and it's always a lucky punch to have one that works got.

Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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post #65 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisi View Post
Normally a threearm clutch should give better grip but these are all China clutches and it's always a lucky punch to have one that works got.
Thanks. Yeah there's a 3 arm on there now. Hoping the rear sprocket change makes a difference to it, as it's not impressive right now for grip...but I've found when something isn't geared right, that's kind of normal as you're asking a lot out of the clutch at that stage.

It's going heaps better with the replacement carburetor.
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post #66 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Re: Motor identification help please

There should be a purge screw that gets removed to remove trapped air from the cylinder topend area...
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post #67 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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What's the specs of your build as far as squish band and compression??

When you built the engine did you do a leskdown test on it??
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post #68 of 121 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
Re: Motor identification help please

A 78 tooth rear should give you way more low end, 13:1 compared to 11.3:1 with 6/68. My 50cc came with 6/72 gears.

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....
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post #69 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Thanks EPR, yes mine will be 6/78 when I get the new sprocket fitted.

CAM2, I didn't build this motor, the long block was already assembled. I don't have a gasket set on hand, it takes 6 weeks plus for me to import this stuff in, usually I order it off Ebay or ali, as I live in New Zealand and parts aren't available locally. In this case, I'm leaving this motor alone as it currently goes and with our race in a weeks time...I don't want it not going<img src="https://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

However - I have 3 other motors already complete and 5 cylinders with pistons in a box that came with the bikes, so the next build I do will be from scratch. I'll strip the next motor down, replace all the bearings with those recomend by Chrisi and set the squish etc.

I'll certainly post build pics to share when I get stuck into it. I'm thinking of this as a base for the next build<img src="https://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

20190422_120020_1566078691845.jpg


It would be kind of unique, as I have only found a couple that are water cooled when Google searching.

Last edited by Kimjon; 3 Weeks Ago at 04:53 PM.
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post #70 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Motor identification help please

The reason why I ask is because those engines don't run too well on anything less than like 15:1 compression and not to mention whether you built it or not a leakdown test is warranted throughout the lifespan of the engine to detect unsuspecting airleaks...
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post #71 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAM2 View Post
The reason why I ask is because those engines don't run too well on anything less than like 15:1 compression and not to mention whether you built it or not a leakdown test is warranted throughout the lifespan of the engine to detect unsuspecting airleaks...
Thanks CAM2 I did buy a leak down tester from your previous advise when I built the cag motor. So I will give it a go.

Testing squish is easy enough too, I was just panicking as I had 3 trikes here yesterday as needing small repairs done. I got them sorted quickly which was a relief.

Going online is my relaxing time, I helps me focus for the next project. Really appreciate all the good advise I get on here.
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post #72 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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they love to brake there its a very stupid design one of the worst ways to clamp on a carburetor

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post #73 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Motor identification help please

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimjon View Post
Thanks CAM2 I did buy a leak down tester from your previous advise when I built the cag motor. So I will give it a go.

Testing squish is easy enough too, I was just panicking as I had 3 trikes here yesterday as needing small repairs done. I got them sorted quickly which was a relief.

Going online is my relaxing time, I helps me focus for the next project. Really appreciate all the good advise I get on here.
On those carb clamps they sell plastic intake shims of different thicknesses to get the most finite amount of clearance out so clamping isn't so brutal.....

I use an o-ring between the intake and the carb to eliminate a cracked mount to add a cushon between both to keep the carb tight..

Try going on the DelOrtto website for the technical aspects that really make a huge difference in getting them mounted properly aswell as dialed-in....

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Last edited by CAM2; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:36 PM.
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post #74 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I've re geared the rear end, from 68 to 78 rear sprocket now. Too late at night to annoy my neighbors...so untested. But should be like once trying to start a car off in third gear...to now putting it in first.

20190820_201200_1566289316786.jpg

Hopefully this is the last step required to make it awesome!
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post #75 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
Re: Motor identification help please

Killer, way to go.

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....
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post #76 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Motor identification help please

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimjon View Post
I've re geared the rear end, from 68 to 78 rear sprocket now. Too late at night to annoy my neighbors...so untested. But should be like once trying to start a car off in third gear...to now putting it in first.

Attachment 148787

Hopefully this is the last step required to make it awesome!
Judging by the setup the 78 will barely be enough.....You can always go down to a 6tth pinion....With locked solid rear axles as you already know has alot of friction requiring the gearing starting in the 13-14:1 ratio area..........

Keep up the great job....Kimjon...

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post #77 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Thanks cam2, I've got a 6/78 on it now.

Holy-moly, if you look in the dictionary for the phrase "world of difference" you'll see a picture of this trike with it's new rear sprocket! This thing screams!!!! Fried the tyres/sleeves and revved to max just like that! So cool...
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post #78 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Motor identification help please

Good to hear on all accounts....

Been awefully busy lately myself..

I busted the tunnel and fractured the fiberglass hull pretty badly on my 1300cc jeteki trying to break 110mph....Sunk it pretty badly too.....lol

I have it at the fiberglass specialist doing a Kevlar and titanium fix on it....

Got my twin turbo Chevy LS Range Rover finished and up to 188mph....Blew the AWD trans but after I get it back I'm going for the 200 mph mark....

Keep on doing what makes you happy Kimjon....

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Last edited by CAM2; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:49 AM.
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post #79 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
Re: Motor identification help please

Way to go CAM. Kimjon, great job, love to see the stuff you make. And yes, the W/C engines have more power than the A/C ones, have fun.

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....
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post #80 of 121 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAM2 View Post
Good to hear on all accounts....

Been awefully busy lately myself..

I busted the tunnel and fractured the fiberglass hull pretty badly on my 1300cc jeteki trying to break 110mph....Sunk it pretty badly too.....lol

I have it at the fiberglass specialist doing a Kevlar and titanium fix on it....

Got my twin turbo Chevy LS Range Rover finished and up to 188mph....Blew the AWD trans but after I get it back I'm going for the 200 mph mark....

Keep on doing what makes you happy Kimjon....
Quote:
Originally Posted by EPR View Post
Way to go CAM. Kimjon, great job, love to see the stuff you make. And yes, the W/C engines have more power than the A/C ones, have fun.
Thanks guys, yeah projects are what keeps the mind active and gives purpose to the day.

cam2 - wow! Like seriously wow!!!! Those are next level cool projects.
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