Remove front wheel - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020 Thread Starter
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Remove front wheel

I have an MT-A4 Blata B1 rep. Guessing with it being stored in the box for a long time the tyres aren’t sealed properly. The rear loses air considerably worse than the front but both need doing. I’ve got inner tubes on order but I can’t get the front wheel off the bike?
I went to take one of the discs off to give me a bit of room but the bolts won’t crack, I can feel the heads starting to round off before the bolt will let go. The callipers are fouling the wheel as I try and pull it out. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020
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Re: Remove front wheel

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Originally Posted by Tonck1 View Post
I have an MT-A4 Blata B1 rep. Guessing with it being stored in the box for a long time the tyres aren’t sealed properly. The rear loses air considerably worse than the front but both need doing. I’ve got inner tubes on order but I can’t get the front wheel off the bike?
I went to take one of the discs off to give me a bit of room but the bolts won’t crack, I can feel the heads starting to round off before the bolt will let go. The callipers are fouling the wheel as I try and pull it out. Any ideas?
My brain logically tells me that I wasted my time posting that manual you most likely didn't read...………….



You need to heat the bolts up with a plumbers speedy torch to liqueify the Loctite they put on the bolts...………...
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tonck1 View Post
I have an MT-A4 Blata B1 rep. Guessing with it being stored in the box for a long time the tyres aren’t sealed properly. The rear loses air considerably worse than the front but both need doing. I’ve got inner tubes on order but I can’t get the front wheel off the bike?
I went to take one of the discs off to give me a bit of room but the bolts won’t crack, I can feel the heads starting to round off before the bolt will let go. The callipers are fouling the wheel as I try and pull it out. Any ideas?
My brain logically tells me that I wasted my time posting that manual you most likely didn't read...………….



You need to heat the bolts up with a plumbers speedy torch to liqueify the Loctite they put on the bolts...………...
Sorry lad, I just read my own which I had to hand at the time. I went through that once and didn’t think to call upon it. Thanks anyway 👍🏻
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020
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Re: Remove front wheel

I'm sorry, lol, lol, you can't figure how to get the front wheel off. Do you have dual brakes up from, wait till you try to put it back, might have to to separate the caliper to get the caliper off.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020 Thread Starter
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I'm sorry, lol, lol, you can't figure how to get the front wheel off. Do you have dual brakes up from, wait till you try to put it back, might have to to separate the caliper to get the caliper off.
yeah it’s twin discs at the front mate.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020
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Re: Remove front wheel

You will figure it out, Wait till you ride it and the clutches grab at 8,000 rpms, probably 6hp. I was told buy Tsunamibikes mechanic the 39cc with a few mods was 7hp and the 50cc 9hp, but I don't know if its true. Mine has mods its much faster than a Cag.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020 Thread Starter
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You will figure it out, Wait till you ride it and the clutches grab at 8,000 rpms, probably 6hp. I was told buy Tsunamibikes mechanic the 39cc with a few mods was 7hp and the 50cc 9hp, but I don't know if its true. Mine has mods its much faster than a Cag.
I’ll think about going the 50cc bore kit route when I’m thinking of a top end rebuild. Wouldn’t know where to get the kit though to be honest. So far I’ve added the recommended ngk B9EGV spark plug, carbon reed petals, big ramair foam air filter. Just got to sort a couple things before I get it on track to test it out. Know of any more good mods to go for? I known issues I can prevent with higher quality parts? Cheers.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020
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Re: Remove front wheel

Its a copy engine, of the Blata racing engine, by Pavel Blata in the Czech Republic. There are more mods but you have to take the engine apart to do much more. In racing conditions there not very reliable. Its all out or nothing with these engines, not designed for slow riding,
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020 Thread Starter
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Its a copy engine, of the Blata racing engine, by Pavel Blata in the Czech Republic. There are more mods but you have to take the engine apart to do much more. In racing conditions there not very reliable. Its all out or nothing with these engines, not designed for slow riding,
Once it’s been ran in I plan on riding it hard every other weekend at go kart tracks. What’s this wrist pin to change about? Can’t find the info in the search. Also read about replacing the water pump o ring?
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Re: Remove front wheel

Mine came with a 50cc engine, cyld walls are thin with 37mm cyld bored to 39.5cc, engine heat can be a problem. Your 37 has thicker cyld., both have 37mm stroke and 10mm piston pin. Yours is new just ride it. Best bet for you is a compression cap in the head with higher compression, I have a 39cc C1 air cooled engine in a C1 frame.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg C1 50cc SS Exh.1.JPG (501.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg C1 50cc SS Exh.2.JPG (500.9 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg C1 50cc SS Exh.3.JPG (475.5 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 910 Polini and 40cc WC Clone Engine.jpg (505.9 KB, 8 views)
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020 Thread Starter
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Mine came with a 50cc engine, cyld walls are thin with 37mm cyld bored to 39.5cc, engine heat can be a problem. Your 37 has thicker cyld., both have 37mm stroke and 10mm piston pin. Yours is new just ride it. Best bet for you is a compression cap in the head with higher compression, I have a 39cc C1 air cooled engine in a C1 frame.
Compression cap in the head? I’m not stupid but not sure what you mean lol. Nice bike mate, how have you got your clip ons straight with the coolant reservoir where it is? I’m in the middle of pushing mine out with a bracket. Waiting on some bends for the new hoses.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020 Thread Starter
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Mine came with a 50cc engine, cyld walls are thin with 37mm cyld bored to 39.5cc, engine heat can be a problem. Your 37 has thicker cyld., both have 37mm stroke and 10mm piston pin. Yours is new just ride it. Best bet for you is a compression cap in the head with higher compression, I have a 39cc C1 air cooled engine in a C1 frame.
How did you go about the radiator braces aswell mate!?
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Re: Remove front wheel

Don't know why your handle bars don't clear the bottle, there are a bunch different manufactures. The head has a removable compression cap sealed with a rubber O ring, it can be changed. The braces are Simpson WT6 used in metal interior walls w/ sheet rock, they mount top and bottom to hold the wall sections together, I found them in a hardware store 50 cents, need to make some minor mods.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020 Thread Starter
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Don't know why your handle bars don't clear the bottle, there are a bunch different manufactures. The head has a removable compression cap sealed with a rubber O ring, it can be changed. The braces are Simpson WT6 used in metal interior walls w/ sheet rock, they mount top and bottom to hold the wall sections together, I found them in a hardware store 50 cents, need to make some minor mods.
All stock, if I put the clip ons in a natural position near the top and fairly straight I cannot turn the handle bars far at all without punching the reservoir with them.
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Re: Remove front wheel

The bars don't turn much on my bike either. You lean the bike to turn. To turn the bike when its stopped, pick up the rear of it and turn it around. A lot of my bikes have a steering stabilizer to restrict handle bar movement, or front wheel wobble.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2020 Thread Starter
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The bars don't turn much on my bike either. You lean the bike to turn. To turn the bike when its stopped, pick up the rear of it and turn it around. A lot of my bikes have a steering stabilizer to restrict handle bar movement, or front wheel wobble.
How do you get on with the steering damper? I’ve seen them on eBay but not sure how they work/mount to the bike. It’s obv not like a conventional bike. I’ve now pushed my reservoir out and put new hoses in. I can turn lock to lock with near enough straight bars now, no problem. Good for slow manoeuvres. Will post pics soon with an update on how my bikes getting on.
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I mount it there
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File Type: jpg IMG_20171122_163304_1581683131463.jpg (426.2 KB, 10 views)

Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2020 Thread Starter
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I mount it there
Thanks for the pic mate. Have you a side view to see what it’s fixed to?
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Re: Remove front wheel

See the bolt and nut on the triple clamp, that's where the swivel part connects, the other end mounts to your frame somewhere.
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Have only this Pic. I've drill a hole in the tripl clamp and set a long screw to fix it. You can also mount it like the second Pic.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20171122_163311_1581754551617.jpg (391.8 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20190201-WA0001_1581754669613.jpg (317.7 KB, 10 views)

Get your kick with 2 stroke mix
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