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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a writeup for cleaning the carb on an X15 110cc or is it pretty much the same as the 49cc cags?
 

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Pretty much the same. Carb does have an extra jet and is a bit more complicated. Honestly pretty easy. Tooth brush and gas is what I use and then blast both jets out with compressed air. Actually after I clean it I blast it all out with compressed air.
 

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Is there a writeup for cleaning the carb on an X15 110cc or is it pretty much the same as the 49cc cags?
Theres write ups...Its a lil more involved than a cag carb doing it correctly...

Just make sure the mainjet is clean and clear aswell as the pilot jet

Theres an atomizer tube that the mainjet screws into that has 20 crossflow holes that needs to be clean and clear aswell

The float has a factory setting which is 10* degrees angle

air / fuel mix screw has a factory setting of 2 full turns out

make sure the needle and seat are good and clean

c-clip factory setting on the mainjet needle is the middle notch

On the bottom of the floatbowl theres an EPA restrictor casted in that needs to be grinded down aswell to get better use of the bike..............Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Theres write ups...

Just make sure the mainjet is clean and clear aswell as the pilot jet


Theres an atomizer tube that the maunjet screws into that has 20 crossflow holes that needs to be clean and clear aswell

The float has a factory setting which is 10* degrees angle

air / fuel mix screw has a factory setting of 2 full turns out

c-clip factory setting on the mainjet needle is the middle notch

On the bottom of the floatbowl theres an EPA restrictor casted in that needs to be grinded down aswell to get better use of the bike..............Good Luck
Thanks, I'm aiming to get this done this weekend.
Can you explain a bit more about the EPA restrictor?
 

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Thanks, I'm aiming to get this done this weekend.
Can you explain a bit more about the EPA restrictor?
On the bottom of the floatbowl theres an EPA restrictor casted in......

Its job given by the EPA is to keep the float sitting high never to drop to its full potential in the bowl...

This keeps the float needle very very close to the seat which slows fuel flow and causes all sorts of running problems/symptoms like inconsistent idle,,,sudden shutoffs and lots of popping on decelleration prior to the unexpected shutoffs especially when coming off a highspeed run cause while the float is trapped on its restrictor the slow fuel couldnt keep up fast enough to keep the floatbowl supplied fast enough to keep the engine from lean popping to death and then shutting off cause it was literally running on fumes....

While youre pulling over to restart the stalled bike the fuel refills the floatbowl and away you go again...Doing that too much overheats,burns and bends valves

With the restrictor removed and the float limiter tab adjusted the float gets to drop into the bottom of the floatbowl....This gives the floatbowl a more stronger useable volume of fuel to feed the engine and keep the pilot jet immersed in fuel....

Theres been lots of members who have performed the mod has said their bikes start up instantly almost like they were fuel injected and ran great.......so did mine..
....

I found the problem when I took an X22 and slapped it on my dynojet motorcycle dyno while taking the carb apart a dozen times until I nailed down the gremlin....







 

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Take a look at the X22 rims, they have thin legs that can break off at the hub ( center part with bearings and axle), under racing conditions.
I use old electric guitar string, the nut end w/ 6" of line to run thru the jets and brass atomizer tubes, which have tiny holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On the bottom of the floatbowl theres an EPA restrictor casted in......

Its job given by the EPA is to keep the float sitting high never to drop to its full potential in the bowl...

This keeps the float needle very very close to the seat which slows fuel flow and causes all sorts of running problems/symptoms like inconsistent idle,,,sudden shutoffs and lots of popping on decelleration prior to the unexpected shutoffs especially when coming off a highspeed run cause while the float is trapped on its restrictor the slow fuel couldnt keep up fast enough to keep the floatbowl supplied fast enough to keep the engine from lean popping to death and then shutting off cause it was literally running on fumes....

While youre pulling over to restart the stalled bike the fuel refills the floatbowl and away you go again...Doing that too much overheats,burns and bends valves

With the restrictor removed and the float limiter tab adjusted the float gets to drop into the bottom of the floatbowl....This gives the floatbowl a more stronger useable volume of fuel to feed the engine and keep the pilot jet immersed in fuel....

Theres been lots of members who have performed the mod has said their bikes start up instantly almost like they were fuel injected and ran great.......so did mine..
....

I found the problem when I took an X22 and slapped it on my dynojet motorcycle dyno while taking the carb apart a dozen times until I nailed down the gremlin....







Great info, so I want to grind or cut with a dremel the float restrictor completely correct?
 

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That's a Yes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Winter finally over and again Carb cleaned (and the bowl tab ground off), now noticed screw for the choke arm is missing. Does this need a screw with washer or spacer that bottoms out to provide movement of the arm? Screw in question has the yellow circle around it.:
 

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That screw holds the choke cable bracket tight to the carb..............nothing rotates except the choke arm...

Im pretty sure theres a couple casting bosses sticking out it screws into on one and the other is used as a pin by the choke rotator spring as shown in the picture..

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Cam!

On another note I saw that in another thread it said if you do the tab mod to back out the air/fuel mix screw 2 1/2 turns rather than the stock 2. Is this the case just to confirm as I've ground it down now.
 

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Thanks Cam!

On another note I saw that in another thread it said if you do the tab mod to back out the air/fuel mix screw 2 1/2 turns rather than the stock 2. Is this the case just to confirm as I've ground it down now.
The a/f screw increase has to do with further mods like hp airfilter too,,Im pretty sure....

The a/f screw is what you use to keep your bike in tune throughout the year...

You can incrimentally richen or lean the mix to always get max power if it substantially changes from the day before........

Try the a/f screw a half turn out more.......See how the bike performs.....

The mod eliminates the float restrictor tab that stops the fuel bowl from filling up at a proper rate because the float is trapped so high the needle is so close to the brass seat the fuel literally dribbles into the bowl causing severe leanout under WOT conditions.....

The restrictor tab removal mod eliminates the fuel starvation issue imposed by the EPA........
 
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