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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got a $17 Stihl 25mm clone pumper carb., mounted it to a 25mm intake reduced to 21mm to fit the 4 stroke Honda clone head exhaust port. It is a pulse carb like most Walbros. The carb pulse hole is block now by the isolator and intake manifold. CAM2 said it can be modified to work w/ a vacuum hose off the intake to a fitting on the carb tied into the pulse channel from the side I believe.
Also looking at linking it to my 19mm by 24mm ID rubber steel intake using the 27mm adaptor shown it the photo to a tube between the C1 and adaptor. The mouth is 30mm the venture 20mm and the rear bore 25mm. Has the high & low jet adjustment screws on the side.
Another plus, it clears the gas tank better than the PZ 19 or 22mm and the 25mm dirt bike carb on the X18 now is to low to put a head breather vent in the top valve cover cap on the head.
 

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Same deal as putting it on a 4 stroke ohv kart engine...vacuum pulses the carb as the valves open/close.........

Cant wait to hear the results..........
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just bought 2 more on eBay, GET THIS $6.27 ea. $12.54 free shipping. I paid $17 for the first, prek Friday Sale. One might be for parts. It's $5 for a clone repair kit, a Tillotson kit is $49.99. Next looking into hooking it to my 50cc C1 19mm manifold. The cases have a purge fitting plugged off cause the 19mm Dell is on it now. On the X18 thinking about drilling a match hole to the upper carb pulse hole at the face where they meet, then run that hole down into the intake manifold, for vacuum.
25mm ID carb is pretty big for a 50cc 2stroke, since the venture is only 20mm, it might work out.
 

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I just bought 2 more on eBay, GET THIS $6.27 ea. $12.54 free shipping. I paid $17 for the first, prek Friday Sale. One might be for parts. It's $5 for a clone repair kit, a Tillotson kit is $49.99. Next looking into hooking it to my 50cc C1 19mm manifold. The cases have a purge fitting plugged off cause the 19mm Dell is on it now. On the X18 thinking about drilling a match hole to the upper carb pulse hole at the face where they meet, then run that hole down into the intake manifold, for vacuum.
25mm ID carb is pretty big for a 50cc 2stroke, since the venture is only 20mm, it might work out.
$7 bux each is a steal of the century.................The manifold mod sounds like a killer plan..

The HL166b has a 16mm venturi..Like a taperbore carb...............

Venturi Diameter: 16mm
Throttle Bore Diameter: 20.57mm
Air Entry 22.40mm

Years back there was a member called McMuffinator or something that was making custom manifolds to use the HL234 on the 50cc Banshee and 40cc Blata engines....

This ones got the Tillotson HS series 20mm carb with remote pulse from Stihl 66cc concrete saw
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I got 2 new clone carbs that sound just like the HL166b, $12 each for the 66cc ?? 041AV Stihl Farm Boss chainsaw, 22/21mm to play with a bored out Cag alum manifold that where planed for the twin drag engines. I have a custom modified C1 manifold with alum plate in between and bolted together, to fit the 19mm HDA223b purge carb, I told you before it was not pumping gas and Dave's don't show the HDA223b carb anymore, but U have a re-pair kit. Have to dig it out and compare them to the C1 manifold I made.
Crap, I love that Blata engine, and that manifold is sick, thinking about tracking him down and see if he has any left. It has 2 purge outlet fittings?? The head and exhaust port have extra water cooling brass fittings, it would fit real good in my C1, lol.
 

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I got 2 new clone carbs that sound just like the HL166b, $12 each for the 66cc ?? 041AV Stihl Farm Boss chainsaw, 22/21mm to play with a bored out Cag alum manifold that where planed for the twin drag engines. I have a custom modified C1 manifold with alum plate in between and bolted together, to fit the 19mm HDA223b purge carb, I told you before it was not pumping gas and Dave's don't show the HDA223b carb anymore, but U have a re-pair kit. Have to dig it out and compare them to the C1 manifold I made.
Crap, I love that Blata engine, and that manifold is sick, thinking about tracking him down and see if he has any left. It has 2 purge outlet fittings?? The head and exhaust port have extra water cooling brass fittings, it would fit real good in my C1, lol.[/quote}

Yeah its a marine engine............The other fitting is for the Walbro vacuum pulse powered fuelpump that also doubles as a waterpump when utilized for r/c boating........

I know where to get the manifolds without McMuffin but you can try him...After the security breach its highly unlikely youll get ahold of him but as they say....nothing gained from nothing ventured....:tango_face_glasses:....

McMuffin was making them for individual euro engines as per ordered...

Just like the Tillotson carbs the Walbros are finetuneable where you tune the popoff pressure using a popoff pressure tester........The pumping action is tuneable using different rate springs..

I know a couple of people running the HDA223 on 40cc Blata engines sucessfully...........:tango_face_grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Who has the manifolds??? Must have been one Wild boat, lol. My C1 is inside my house, brand new engine w/ 40mm Banshee/Polini clone piston, for months. Afraid to start it and be disappointed again, lol, they rope is harder to pull than a stock C1. Think the piston goes .028" into the compression cap, had to mod both parts to get clearance.
To be honest, kind of afraid to take my HDA223B apart, never had a Walbro apart yet, with the China carbs I just buy a new one, lol. Have seen photo with all the tiny parts. I told you before its new but won't pump gas, probably sat to long on a shelf. It might even be a bad pump diaphragm. Think you said the needle might be stuck close, so know gas flow. HLsupply has a Walbro Adj. Gauge, W shaped for Walbro carb adjustments on sale today for $8.99, think I will order one, lol. I have an HDA rebuild kit from Dave's, for it and WT & WYK carbs.
Already have C1 to HDA223B manifold I made, all I need is a working carb, my purge fitting is on top near the Reed area, like the Blata engine.
 

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Who has the manifolds??? Must have been one Wild boat, lol. My C1 is inside my house, brand new engine w/ 40mm Banshee/Polini clone piston, for months. Afraid to start it and be disappointed again, lol, they rope is harder to pull than a stock C1. Think the piston goes .028" into the compression cap, had to mod both parts to get clearance.
To be honest, kind of afraid to take my HDA223B apart, never had a Walbro apart yet, with the China carbs I just buy a new one, lol. Have seen photo with all the tiny parts. I told you before its new but won't pump gas, probably sat to long on a shelf. It might even be a bad pump diaphragm. Think you said the needle might be stuck close, so know gas flow. HLsupply has a Walbro Adj. Gauge, W shaped for Walbro carb adjustments on sale today for $8.99, think I will order one, lol. I have an HDA rebuild kit from Dave's, for it and WT & WYK carbs.
Already have C1 to HDA223B manifold I made, all I need is a working carb, my purge fitting is on top near the Reed area, like the Blata engine.
They are pretty wild but theres a tradeoff with the extra weight thats added over a watercooled CY engine....

The boat doesnt handle as good as it did in turning ability/agility either.............

Dont be afraid to venture into the unknown....The carb is very basic..

It has a pumper diaphragm that pumps the fuel through the fuel circuits by tapping a fork fulcrumed to a fuel needle and fuel flappers to control the fuel with 2 adjustment needles to control the rate of fuel.......The fork must be correctly calibrated aswell...

It starts to get technical when you have to pop the welch plugs and modify or clean out fuel circuits...

On one of my WT603 carbs that wouldnt pump fuel...It turned out to be a blockage from the epoxy the chinese used to seal one welch plug.....

If you dont adjust the popoff youll have a hard time balancing the fuel needles..............popoff is adjusted through different rate springs with differentiating spring pressures to counteract against the pumper diaphragm..........

Once youve dialed in the correct popoff pressure its a no brainer how to keep the carb finetuned to exact application its being used on because youll have the correct pressure spring installed................

Same deal goes for the Tillotson.....If the carb works great on 4 strokers chances are youll be adjusting the popoff pressure in the Tillotson to work on a two stroker.........
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Saw a box of Walbro springs for repair, in a divided plastic case, For $60 or so, now I know what they are for. I did buy that Walbro gauge W. When it comes will take the HDA223B apart and see if I can find the problem. I got it for $40 from Hugh at SDscooters years ago. I have a billet manifold GS460 engine I believe for the Walbro HDA223B w/ fitting and hose to feed the carb, but it is for a piston port scooter or RC engine, maybe I could make an adaptor plate between it and the Cag to run it on a 2 stroke engine. Wonder if Dave has those springs to adj. pressure off the pump diaphragm?? Or maybe small washers under the spring??
 

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Saw a box of Walbro springs for repair, in a divided plastic case, For $60 or so, now I know what they are for. I did buy that Walbro gauge W. When it comes will take the HDA223B apart and see if I can find the problem. I got it for $40 from Hugh at SDscooters years ago. I have a billet manifold GS460 engine I believe for the Walbro HDA223B w/ fitting and hose to feed the carb, but it is for a piston port scooter or RC engine, maybe I could make an adaptor plate between it and the Cag to run it on a 2 stroke engine. Wonder if Dave has those springs to adj. pressure off the pump diaphragm?? Or maybe small washers under the spring??
Some like to stretch the spring or cut them to work but that doesnt always work out in the longrun...

You can get springs direct through Walbro..

Once you get a popoff pressure tester youll be able to see if the carb needs a heavier or lighter spring based on popoff pressure reading..........
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have an air gauge, all I need is that blue adaptor and a hose, lol.
 

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I have an air gauge, all I need is that blue adaptor and a hose, lol.
The gauge isnt just a gauge if you look at one online theres a thumb activated pumper that pumps pressure from 1/4-15lbs as you hold it in your hand...

You exert pressure against the pumper needle at the seat through the nipple port til you get the pressure to bleed off...where the pressure bleeds off is your popoff setting.......You feel the pop in your hand while eyeing the gauge pressure to get the number when it pops...

You dont even need the diaphragm in the carb either...aslong as theres a spring holding the needle shut you can perform the test to see what different springs allow popoff at what pressures...

Theres a technical aspect to this hobby most dont know when utilizing pumper carbs that can mean the difference between losing and smashing the competition....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will look for one if I need it. I was looking at that in the photo, trying to figure where the blue adaptor is plugged into the carb cases. Pretty good way to tell what its doing.
 
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