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2020 uber scoot 49cc 2 stroke
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone her use the 63cc KASEI motor is it any good? Is it much faster then a 49cc. Just wondering be for I buy one for my uber scoot. I just bought a 49cc piston port on eBay and I'm pretty happy with it.
 

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LOL that's a straight up weed eater engine the clutch and bellhousing bolt pattern are probably different you can also try stihl homelite or husqvarna echo makes engines as well basically you're on your own if you want to try random engines off the internet...
 

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2020 uber scoot 49cc 2 stroke
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It was just a question. I'm glad I mad you laugh tho.
 

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It was just a question. I'm glad I mad you laugh tho.
Most of the time those projects end up costing more then if you just went out and got a real euro race engine Almost nothing lines up and you have to have parts custom made to make those types of things work

With those types of things I would recommend getting the engine with the weed eater on it then if the motor doesn't line up or you can't get it to work at least you have a good weed eater that you can use around the yard
 

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2020 uber scoot 49cc 2 stroke
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rules are made to be broken. Sorry I asked you to get off f your high horse.
 

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Right on if you get it to work cheaply then it's worth the extra torque you will probably lose some RPM because of displacement size is bigger so you will have to take advantage of re-gearing to get a boost in top speed.

You probably would only get 3.1 hp stock the 49cc's are about 2.6 2.7 horsepower but yeah you can modify it and get more...

Or get 350 to 500 $$$ and buy a complete used Euro engine ready to run off of a pro builder and adapter that thing onto your Uber scoot and have 11 to 16 of transmission stripping HP horsepower but I understand it's expensive and you would never really be able to use all the power.

Just let us know 😁
 

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Tb
Has anyone her use the 63cc KASEI motor is it any good? Is it much faster then a 49cc. Just wondering be for I buy one for my uber scoot. I just bought a 49cc piston port on eBay and I'm pretty happy with it.
Dude, I would try it. Why not. Theoretically more CC's more power and torque.
It honestly looks like at mounts just like any 49cc piston port. I would buy it and if it doesn't fit I'll make it fit. LOL
You could probably beef up your current engine but if you don't want to get into the internals to modify it, always go bigger!
With that said, I have personally never tried it.
 

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In the second photo the piston is backwards, but was fixed when I assembled the engine. I sold it to a guy with a Cateye. He told me he was leaving all his buddies in the Dust, lol.
 

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2020 uber scoot 49cc 2 stroke
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys I have a cag motor cumming had it planned for another project and wanted to see if it would work on my scooter. How do I get a full circle crank? Thanks again guys.
 

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Yup you can just get that engine off epr he is a solid builder

You don't want the fcc in a CAG engine it onley works well in the piston ported engine
 

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I bought the FC crank from a Cag engine but they put it on a lathe and turned one end down to fit the small seal in the piston port cases. Had to cut 1/4" of the end of it to get the pull start to fit. That engine has a Gold alum alloy Cag head. I built a 43cc P/P with an ADA racing round allow head reg crank.
 

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Here is a tip for you guys. If you want to run a lighter 47cc crank and a 44mm piston with 10mm pin, or convert a 47cc engine search like eBay " parts for 2 stroke 49cc scooter engine ", The 49cc piston port engine has a 44mm piston but 10mm pin, fits right on your 47cc crank. Then buy a 44mm Cag cyld no piston. Get a piston kit w/ rings, pin, bearing and clips, and your set.
I only build 40mm, 47cc cylds and pistons now, why, no channel above the exhaust port, that's like a garden hose with a hole in it, lol. The lighter you make the moving parts the more RPMs you get. The crank is lighter, piston and pin lighter, you just need to increase your compression, its a No Brainer.
 

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Here is a tip for you guys. If you want to run a lighter 47cc crank and a 44mm piston with 10mm pin, or convert a 47cc engine search like eBay " parts for 2 stroke 49cc scooter engine ", The 49cc piston port engine has a 44mm piston but 10mm pin, fits right on your 47cc crank. Then buy a 44mm Cag cyld no piston. Get a piston kit w/ rings, pin, bearing and clips, and your set.
I only build 40mm, 47cc cylds and pistons now, why, no channel above the exhaust port, that's like a garden hose with a hole in it, lol. The lighter you make the moving parts the more RPMs you get. The crank is lighter, piston and pin lighter, you just need to increase your compression, its a No Brainer.
The 2020 and later 44mm engine without the easy pull start no longer has the decompression notch I have two of them.
 

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Really??? I haven't seen those 44mm available anymore. Whats your resource?? I would like to know, but i aslo like to build the 40mm. Just as much power can be had and as wannabe stated, lighter is better for more rpms. Thats what I want.....
 

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In the goped scooter world we have been building 60mph huasheng 63cc engines. Swapping the ignition coils from the 1e44f th52 engines, or swapping the flywheel and coil from the cy gp460 engine. Jetpro makes a rino style pipe for them. They are definitely a power house when built right. And for the cost, $80-$130 from china the good outweighs the bad. I built 2 myself and got 55 mph with a pipe porting walbro hda48 carb and tl 52 coil. Im in search for the tl52 cylinder reed kits from 20 years ago now for one of my 63ccs.
 

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Really??? I haven't seen those 44mm available anymore. Whats your resource?? I would like to know, but i aslo like to build the 40mm. Just as much power can be had and as wannabe stated, lighter is better for more rpms. Thats what I want.....
The 40mm crankshaft has the proper balance factor

The 44mm is just a bigger piston and cylinder but they never redesigned the crankshaft so the balance Factor comes out to 34% so we know from the Big shot builders like two stroke stuffing and race bike engine builders you want the balance Factor close to 45 to 50%.

Here is what I know

The ones with out the decompression notch do not say 44-6 on the jug.

If it comes with the easy pull starter it definitely has the notch.

If it comes with the metal pull starter it more than likely has the decompression notch. (Those are all New Old stock engines that originally came with the plastic pull starter with the plastic starter pawl and they have taken the plastic starter off and put the metal one on because of complaints of it breaking the 5th or 6th time people use it)

It seems like it was about the middle of 2019 is when they changed the mold right around the time the Cagllari Daytona was discontinued it seems like they wanted a bit more power for the pocket dirt bike that is still able to sneak through the US customs border agents. ( Because they can't tell the difference between the two-stroke and four-stroke pocket dirt bike)

Here is how I buy
I get my engines off of eBay
I always contact the seller and ask them if it's New Old stock or if it's the 2020 or newer engine
I asked them if it's specifically made for the pocket dirt bike.
If they respond and say that it is a pull off from new 2020 pocket dirt bikes I 100% definitely will buy it.
I ask them if I get the engine and the code says that it is not from 2020 or newer ( even though the code is meaningless) if I can return the engine and they say no I can't I 100% definitely will not buy it.

I bought two engines last year asking these questions from two different sellers both engines were slightly different one had a tinted pink pull rope real and the other one is white one of them the gasket sealant was actually pipe sealant and the other one had none and varying gasket thicknesses but both engines did not have the decompression notch.

I did not do much pocket bike riding last year so I did not buy two engines like I normally do around Christmas in fact I never finished building the second engine so I will pull the jug off right now for this picture

( Yes I know about it that's the only reason I pulled the jug off I know I did not fill the tops of the transfer ports with JB weld to curve the flow inward towards the combustion chamber yes I also know I prematurely assembled the engine before properly polishing and finishing my port work and yes I know I used a hair too much sealant )

All of these problems will get resolved and posted in its build thread where the thread just mysteriously stops halfway through lol some projects take longer than others.
 

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The 40mm crankshaft has the proper balance factor

The 44mm is just a bigger piston and cylinder but they never redesigned the crankshaft so the balance Factor comes out to 34% so we know from the Big shot builders like two stroke stuffing and race bike engine builders you want the balance Factor close to 45 to 50%.

Here is what I know

The ones with out the decompression notch do not say 44-6 on the jug.

If it comes with the easy pull starter it definitely has the notch.

If it comes with the metal pull starter it more than likely has the decompression notch. (Those are all New Old stock engines that originally came with the plastic pull starter with the plastic starter pawl and they have taken the plastic starter off and put the metal one on because of complaints of it breaking the 5th or 6th time people use it)

It seems like it was about the middle of 2019 is when they changed the mold right around the time the Cagllari Daytona was discontinued it seems like they wanted a bit more power for the pocket dirt bike that is still able to sneak through the US customs border agents. ( Because they can't tell the difference between the two-stroke and four-stroke pocket dirt bike)

Here is how I buy
I get my engines off of eBay
I always contact the seller and ask them if it's New Old stock or if it's the 2020 or newer engine
I asked them if it's specifically made for the pocket dirt bike.
If they respond and say that it is a pull off from new 2020 pocket dirt bikes I 100% definitely will buy it.
I ask them if I get the engine and the code says that it is not from 2020 or newer ( even though the code is meaningless) if I can return the engine and they say no I can't I 100% definitely will not buy it.

I bought two engines last year asking these questions from two different sellers both engines were slightly different one had a tinted pink pull rope real and the other one is white one of them the gasket sealant was actually pipe sealant and the other one had none and varying gasket thicknesses but both engines did not have the decompression notch.

I did not do much pocket bike riding last year so I did not buy two engines like I normally do around Christmas in fact I never finished building the second engine so I will pull the jug off right now for this picture

( Yes I know about it that's the only reason I pulled the jug off I know I did not fill the tops of the transfer ports with JB weld to curve the flow inward towards the combustion chamber yes I also know I prematurely assembled the engine before properly polishing and finishing my port work and yes I know I used a hair too much sealant )

All of these problems will get resolved and posted in its build thread where the thread just mysteriously stops halfway through lol some projects take longer than others.
Honestly balance factor means nothing. I have built and rebuilt at least 50 motors, half moon or full circle, none had an issue.
I'm glad you happened to find some 44 mm engines from eBay. I of course don't want the 44, because there are plenty of 44 mm top ends if I want. I do know that the cranks are exactly the same as well as the cases.
However the rods are different marked or not, the 40-6 versus the 44 - 6 or measure them towards the top ends and there is more weight on the 44 then the 40mm. I have weighed around 25 different ones. 44 always heavier.
Honestly in the end it really doesn't matter. We can go back and forth on this matter but build an engine that works and runs to your own specs, that's all that matters. Or buy the 63cc that the thread was built on and rip it tator chip!!!
 

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I would love to see the new 44mm cyld, you got one laying around or a photo when you put it together, all my stored cylds are 6 years old or older, most of my 40 or 44mm are 2pc cyld with upper port. Also, I have all four cranks here, 47cc/10mm, 49cc/12mm, FC crank/10mm, FC crank/12mm. The 49cc crank is not the same as a 47cc crank which smaller and lighter. The 49 is way heavier. Another plus of the 40mm is the cyld walls are way thicker, less heat and wear.
 

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Crazy, I saw the photo, where is the bottom of the exhaust from the base of the cyld, some are way to low. I only build cyld and alum head engines now. I mill .060" to .080" off the top, compression fixed. A single cyld you can't see anything. Be fore you even start modding an engine where is the top of the piston at BDC, if it blocks the port you have to make changes. Where is the piston at TDC before you even start, then you can make a plan. Every engine I build has a page with everything done to the engine. Also, Before you buy anything make a list of what you need and how much costs. I know from experience, so you don't spend $800 on a $200 Pocket Bike.
 
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