Electric motor on it will be bicycle homologation loophole. I'm gonna hook up some lipos to a 5hp rc motor as an auxiliary drive unit in freewheel. In CA an electric doesn't need pedals. If I see a policeman who looks disgruntled or need to ride a bike path I can kill the motor and the centrifugal clutch will allow the CVT to freewheel as the electric motor powers the bike. Together it would make 8-10 hp peak.
Please, all the details are in the thread, read it and then ask me about it.
If it has floorboards I can go 15mph legally, if I can find a way to put pedals on it, it will be legal for 30 mph. The pedals get in the way of the CVT, as a single speed it would be easy to have pedals.
As an electric, or maybe a hybrid if I can quiet the engine enough, the legal limit is 20mph.
In SF every other moped is so hopped up so fast that they don't have pedals anymore, so I guess it just depends where you live.
I'm actually going to get to this project soon, and it turns out the posted speed limit for stand up scooters is 25 mph, not to shabby for scooting around town! After ripping around on my other bikes I'm not sure whether I wanna keep the skinny front tire, initially this was gonna be a racing bike so it was to keep the front tire as hot as the rear, but now, for cruising it might just be dangerous and uncomfortable, theres a skinnier version of the Hawk Odyssey on the rear I can use for the front for a matching set. Might as well save the mini-velo tires for my BMX.
It looks like a factory bike. I got a California DMV motorcycle handbook a bunch of different rules on, motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, motorized bicycles, motorized scooters. A motorized bike says: Fully operative pedals for human propulsion. Motor-driven cycle says: A motorcycle with a 149cc or less engine. Can be driven w/ CA. lic.
A lot of mopeds in the SF bay area have the pedals removed because they are kinda dangerous at speed. I live in an area where every third person has a moped or a scooter or something in their garage, and they are being encouraged. You can use a scooter to get a MC license here too because they want to get as many drivers off the road as possible.
It does 32 mph so far with no mods to the motor, needs some mods to the cassette to make it shift into the pie plate. I still haven't messed with variator weights, lightening the clutch or replacing it, a lighter flywheel, rocket key, its endless the mods you can do to these things! I think this bike will be fun to tinker with because there are so many systems with room for improvement for making it faster.
Great job getting it running....:thumbsup: There's always room for more mods... What kind of derailleur do you have on there? Perhaps you could post a pic of the rear wheel/sprockets to show the kind of shifting problems your having?
I've got a SRAM X7 with a PG990 cassette, which shifts fine with the stock configuration, but I added this big 41t from mtbtools to the end of the stack so it'll take off with authority. The trick will be putting some carefully placed bolts on the sprocket to make the downshift into the big 1st happen without a ramped sprocket.
Something like this, so the big sprocket draws the chain up on it, its under quite a bit of tension with the medium cage derailleur but I think it'll work, it rides in that gear fine and upshifts from it no problem.
The next mod to it will prolly be a better reed. I've read good things about the composite reeds out there, and I'd like to keep the "stage 2" portwork stock and focus on bolt-ons for the motors so that its easy when it needs service. I have done a lot of porting and know what type of gains can be made, but I don't enjoy doing it. Hoping if I can get all the externals tuned up well, that the stage 2 motors will be kinda like Legos, pop one in and have fun.
I see your problem...a derailleur with a longer cage might work if you don't want to go through lining up bolts and drilling through the sprocket... The bolt heads might hit the chain in second gear unless there's enough spacing between the sprockets or you countersink the bolt heads a bit...
On my MTB the derailleur shifts the chain up into the 34 tooth Shimano 'Megarange' sprocket no problem...
I have the rear drive chain connected to the smallest sprocket on the 3 speed pedal crank.... Those ridges on the side of the middle sprocket that help the chain climb up into the next gear do a pretty good job in this application by preventing the chain from coming off as well as keeping it in alignment before it contacts the sprocket....
The front derailleur has been modified slightly and does the same thing to assist the chain when the bikes in first gear...
Got to work out all the bugs, I have 2 projects going and keep running into small problems along the way. You change or mod one part and you can end up changing a bunch of other stuff to make it work, lol.