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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve got an MT-A4 b1 rep brand new and was wondering if anybody has tips on running it in? I don’t want to blast on it full revs but you need to pretty much be there for the clutch to engage. I’ve left it it ticking over in intervals as much as I can atm which isn’t often. Occasional revving it wel below where the clutch engages and sometimes spin the wheel a bit at 3/4 revs.
 

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Those are fast reving engines they need the RPM to keep the water moving you can't be scared to ride it to break it in after 3 or 4 heat cycles

Don't forget to drain the water at the end of the day and spary a bunch of silicone in the engine then leave the hoses off so any moisture can evaporate out store your bike indoors or at room temperature

Check your water pump belt before you ride...
 

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Don't forget to drain the water at the end of the day and spary a bunch of silicone in the engine then leave the hoses off so any moisture can evaporate out store your bike indoors or at room temperature

Why would you tell him to do this?

Do you know theres a technical way to fill the coolant?

One mess-up from a missed step and the engine could get toasted..

Maybe he should just listen to the Blata manual...…..I never drain my Polini.

I also put waterpump lube in the water to inhibit corrosion...Its 100% water soluable and environmentally safe..……..



And I quote:





Seeings R/V antifreeze it watertank safe in R/V's its 100% safe to use as a coolant especially at a race track...

Only things I drain after each use are the tanks on my compressors and the pumps on my pressure washers..Thats because I have Fitch in my fueltanks…....LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Don't forget to drain the water at the end of the day and spary a bunch of silicone in the engine then leave the hoses off so any moisture can evaporate out store your bike indoors or at room temperature

Why would you tell him to do this?

Are you an expert?

Do you know theres a technical way to fill the coolant?

1 mess-up from a missed step and the engine could get toasted..

Maybe he should just listen to the Blata manual...…..I never drain my Polini.

And I quote:





Seeings R/V antifreeze it watertank safe in R/V's its 100% safe to use as a coolant especially at a race track...
Thanks mate. What about the engine?
 

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Thanks mate. What about the engine?
Read the non-use and storage part again[3rd part].....It states what to do with that if storing more than 90 days....

Like I said "Read the manual".It literally takes 10 minutes and saves you a ton of guesswork and headaches....

I will say though...Instead of using motor oil I use "Engine Fogging Oil"

I also use it even when short term storaging too...……..

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks mate. What about the engine?
Read the non-use and storage part again[3rd part].....It states what to do with that if storing more than 90 days....

Like I said "Read the manual".It literally takes 10 minutes and saves you a ton of guesswork and headaches....
I’m talking about running it in, not storing it. It’s a brand new engine, I don’t want to full rev the life out of it and blow it up.
 

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Thanks mate. What about the engine?
Read the non-use and storage part again[3rd part].....It states what to do with that if storing more than 90 days....

Like I said "Read the manual".It literally takes 10 minutes and saves you a ton of guesswork and headaches....
Also read the manual that came with the bike front to back as well as the original Blata one online.
 

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I’m talking about running it in, not storing it. It’s a brand new engine, I don’t want to full rev the life out of it and blow it up.

Did you know that's covered in the manual too...……………..

And chances are you could've already done engine damage seeings you already stated that the clutch engages way after 3/4 throttle which to me makes that statement kind of redundant...

I really don't know how to say what the experts say to do differently so it can be understood any easier...…….

 

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I meant if useing straight water (but you shouldent use it anyway ) but like Cam2 said do what the manual says don't add anything to it or omit anything and it will be fine...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’m talking about running it in, not storing it. It’s a brand new engine, I don’t want to full rev the life out of it and blow it up.

Did you know that's covered in the manual too...……………..

And chances are you could've already done engine damage seeings you already stated that the clutch engages way after 3/4 throttle which to me makes that statement kind of redundant...

I really don't know how to say what the experts say to do differently so it can be understood any easier...…….

What I’m getting at is for the bike to actually go anywhere I pretty much have to full rev it so I’m shying away from riding it atm. Should I try and ride it just keep it a few thousand revs away from full?
 

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Once you bring the bike up to speed you will feal when the clutch locks it takes some RPMs on those they start making power at 8K it's like a sport bike you have to embrace the revs... Like riding the ninja to work looking at the rpms being like why do you got to be like that lmao then you get off work it's like YEA!!!!

The manual says don't try and go slow and over heat the bike

But don't go out and do speed runs...

So cone off a track with lots of turns and no real straight

Or bring it to the track and just let people pass you on the straight until your finished with your break in tanks

I have let some people ride my pocket bike and they are scared of it I'm like dude you have to give it to it your killing my clutch then they try to go slow again I'm like no your not allowed to ride it anymore
Then others I'm like LOL you gona die 🙂 take it around a few laps
 

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Once you bring the bike up to speed you will feal when the clutch locks it takes some RPMs on those they start making power at 8K it's like a sport bike you have to embrace the revs... Like riding the ninja to work looking at the rpms being like why do you got to be like that lmao then you get off work it's like YEA!!!!

The manual says don't try and go slow and over heat the bike

But don't go out and do speed runs...

So cone off a track with lots of turns and no real straight

Or bring it to the track and just let people pass you on the straight until your finished with your break in tanks

I have let some people ride my pocket bike and they are scared of it I'm like dude you have to give it to it your killing my clutch then they try to go slow again I'm like no your not allowed to ride it anymore
Then others I'm like LOL you gona die 🙂 take it around a few laps
Thanks for the straight answer mate. I know what you mean, my r6 drives me mad when I’m in rush hour but come the time I ain’t got nowhere to be, I’m in heaven lol! Think I’m just gonna get it to a go kart track either this weekend or next. Just run it in there. 2nd time going I’ll be able to give it the bollocks all the way round.
 

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First of all you should measure your clutch engaging rpms and set it from 8000-8500rpm. And control if there are all three arms engage at the same time. Normaly it's enough when you run the engine 4 or 5 times on temperature and let it cool down for run in.
 

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First of all you should measure your clutch engaging rpms and set it from 8000-8500rpm. And control if there are all three arms engage at the same time. Normaly it's enough when you run the engine 4 or 5 times on temperature and let it cool down for run in.
Any tips on setting clutch engagement? I have an rpm gauge coming so would like to know the recommended steps for doing so. I feel like taking the clutch, chain and wheel off and putting it back on 5 times is a bit tedious. I’m sure there’s a right way of doing this. What I’ve got in my head seems long even though I’m obviously willing to do it if needs be.
 

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Any tips on setting clutch engagement? I have an rpm gauge coming so would like to know the recommended steps for doing so. I feel like taking the clutch, chain and wheel off and putting it back on 5 times is a bit tedious. I’m sure there’s a right way of doing this. What I’ve got in my head seems long even though I’m obviously willing to do it if needs be.
You can use a digital or regular caliper or scale ruler,...set each spring to 21mm's...….



A hack/trick is to use a 21mm open end wrench to gauge it if you don't have a measuring caliper.......

The length is measured from the bearing surface of the
clutch shoe to the spring plate...…………




If you want more uumph and higher rpm takeoff set the springs to 20.85mm's...………..

Good Luck
 

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Set the springs to 21-22mm length (springs only!) or with the gaug to 8000rpm, that should be a good starting point, engine and clutch should be warm to setup it. You can only do it step by step always 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then ride a turn or two. It is also very important that all three jaws open at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You can use a digital or regular caliper or scale ruler,...set each spring to 21mm's...….



A hack/trick is to use a 21mm open end wrench to gauge it if you don't have a measuring caliper.......

The length is measured from the bearing surface of the
clutch shoe to the spring plate...…………




If you want more uumph and higher rpm takeoff set the springs to 20.85mm's...………..

Good Luck
Wow, thanks a lot for the step by step! I had originally set the clutch to 20.8 with a ruler. Checked all three springs with a micrometer when it come and they were all bang on 20.9 lol. The rpm gauge is coming. Do you think the spring length or rpm is more important? Or is it just down to personal preference? I have an original blata clutch coming. I’m hoping to set that up right. I’ve read about baking the clutch? Thanks a lot mate. With how I had set the clutch it took off like a little rocket anyway without giving it full throttle so I’m happy and expecting great things from the original!

Set the springs to 21-22mm length (springs only!) or with the gaug to 8000rpm, that should be a good starting point, engine and clutch should be warm to setup it. You can only do it step by step always 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then ride a turn or two. It is also very important that all three jaws open at the same time.
Thanks mate. Is it important to have the clutch warm for setting it up? Should I just star lt at 21mm with the blata clutch that’s coming and see what the rpm gauge is reading when wheel starts turning? Or am I supposed to sit on the bike and see what rpm it actually takes off with me on it or free wheel spinning on the stand?
 

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Do you think the spring length or rpm is more important? Or is it just down to personal preference?

I have an original blata clutch coming. I’m hoping to set that up right. I’ve read about baking the clutch? Thanks a lot mate. With how I had set the clutch it took off like a little rocket anyway without giving it full throttle so I’m happy and expecting great things from the original!
Its a matter of preference....You also need to differentiate when the clutch is making a positive grab or if its slipping.....You'll get the what you hear compared to how it feels type of experience...….

Kind of like knowing when your floating the valves in a 4 stroke.....LOL

Oh and baking the clutch just helps procure the adheisive they use to attach the pads to the shoes just in case the center is a tad uncured from lack of oxygen from the outside curing before the inside...….....
 

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Hello its a matter of preference....You also need to differentiate when the clutch is making a positive grab or if its slipping.....You'll get the what you hear compared to how it feels type of experience...….

Kind of like knowing when your floating the valves in a 4 stroke.....LOL

Oh and baking the clutch just helps procure the adheisive they use to attach the pads to the shoes just in case the center is a tad uncured from lack of oxygen from the outside curing before the inside...….....
Yeah, I’ll start with the 21mm and to from there. What steps should I follow to bake the clutch? Should I put the hole clutch in the oven? For how long? Or should I separate everything and put just the arms/shoes in?

Get a Blata clutch with carbon fiber pads, that's what racers use.
Where would I get the carbon fiber shoes? I’ve came across spare original blata ones but only seen the word carbon along with the zocchi clutch?
 
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