[graham]

I got some off brand blue loctite the other day and applied it and then waited 15 minutes and went for a decent ride. and when I got back, the manifold to cylinder bolts were a bit loose.

How can I make them stop coming loose? This is the only part that comes loose. Or else it's the bolts for the carburetor to manifold....

Should I use lock washers? Rubber washers?

 

[EPR]

I use alot of split lockwasher, SS if I can get them. I would wait 24hrs for the blue stuff to set up.

 

[DvsDev]

Ok, just so you know, for all the loctite products that we use at my work, (red, blue and green) plus other variants of red and blue also from loctite they all are designed to release with heat.
This helps with disassembly of parts and is meant to happen, this is also why it's not suited to things like exhaust parts, sorry about that.
I'd suggest lock washers, split washers are also good, they also have these cool ones that almost look like 2 washers almost stuck together and they interlock as you do them up.
Nyloc nuts are no good also since the nylon melts

 

[EPR]

On all ten of my bikes, I re-thread everything on the engine and frame, w/a $30 metric tap & die set. If you look at your China bolts, some are stamped 8.8 but not as good as the 8.8 metric bolts at the hardware store.
I use 12.2 SS bolts some places. All my ADA Racing cyld & head kits come w/ SS bolts washers & nuts. On most bolts they put on the cyld on and stuff, there too short, don't use all the threads in the cases. So, I get longer ones, like 3 threads showings on the inside, as long as it clears moving parts,lol.

 

[NaSa]

Some really good points about the loc-tite from these guys.

I would just add that if the studs are long enough two nuts tightened against each other can make a kick but locking setup too.

 

[EPR]

I don't heat mine, I put an air gun on reverse, and rip them out. I use a 34lb electric ratchet to put bolts back, but, always torque them by hand.