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Discussion Starter #1
So i got this little PoS cagllari (yahh im not irritated :p) gave me so much trouble from the start then the end of last summer not a problem could sit on it and start it right up and take off.:D
this summer i just got a new exhuast and carborator kit with an air filter hoping it would run even cleaner. when it came down to it, it wont even start, and when it does, the second i let go of the throttle it shuts off, i know its not my exhuast, but its my carborator, why is is doing this? i have a drian tube which i resently found out it needs to go back to the tank since there is a primer on it. but i doubt that would cause it to not start.
could a simple reed change make that big of a difference of it starting or not? My spark plug is brand new so i know its not that either....:confused:

im at the piont where i can no longer figure out the problem myself but need someone more experience to help me out here, any idea's :confused:
 

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On my chainsaw the Walbro choke kicks the butterfly open aliitle. On a reed engine it blocks the air, helps if you open the throttle alittle when you start it. Some people cut a small groove in the bottom of the throttle butterfly to make it easier to start. I have 3 Cags w/ walbros & all caused me starting problems at first. On one I had the idle screw pegged and it stll would not idle put a brass spacer over the idle screw to hold it open, made a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
great help but ill have to try it out when i get a new flywheel, ever since i got this it feels like a high maintence bike, im going to download those pages for the link you gave me so i can mess around with it when i get my fly wheel..
brought my hopes up for my cag since im slowly getting upgrades peices so it can become a beast :D ... but i had all this trouble trying to start it i rounded my flywheel somehow haha

dross i have a feeling that will help alot!.. thank you :thumbsup::D:thumbsup:
 

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ever since i got this it feels like a high maintence bike, im going to download those pages for the link you gave me so i can mess around with it when i get my fly wheel..

Try dating BEAUTIFUL Girls out here in Southern California! <--- But they make ME look 10x as Cool :cool: As I actually am!

2-stroke engines are MUCH less complex than a Women! :p:thumbsup:
 

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No problem!
I do have a spare STOCK flywheel sitting here I wanted to sell. If you're interested give me your zip code so I can price shipping. That way I can give you a 'shipped' price.
 

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I have that style carb.....It works great after you do some rework of the components like the intake manifold and gasket for the reedblock..............



On my kit the velocity stack needed to be modded so with my trusty uni-bit I made the adjustments needed to make the v-stack choke work and the carbs choke removed and the holes for the choke shaft epoxied closed

The bracket for the throttle cable will have to be modded too to fit and like in the other posts stated youll either need a gastank with the dual lines or a dual line kit.............



I removed my cable bracket from the carb and elongated the holes and grinded out some of the inner hoop shape in the bracket then installed it angled enough to rest against the engine case perfectly.............



The ease of startup and tuning is like night and day over a float type carb...........

As for the overall effect...........If you lighten the flywheel,,add a rocket key and add a composite reed set with a NGK sparkplug youll really see some benefits,,,mod the exhaust or get a perf exhaust and youll really feel the difference.............
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so i have my parts coming in tomorrow but i got 2 last question before i give it a go, i had a mixing bottle for my gas and oil which made it easy to get the perfect amount of both in the tank. i no longer have that anymore sadly...

but my ratio for my bike is 50:1
what is that in? ounces?

also ive been looking on how to install my rocket key and i can find out how to install that can i get some help?

@nick
fine tunning beautiful girls is no problem, making them ride correctly is the problem i run into... :thumbsup::p:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
lmao really? haha! no wonder why my spark plugs look all black when they are done :p
so im going to go with the 32:1 check out my spark plug, if its ashy looking 40:1
so im guessing yes, that is in ounces?
 

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lmao really? haha! no wonder why my spark plugs look all black when they are done :p
so im going to go with the 32:1 check out my spark plug, if its ashy looking 40:1
so im guessing yes, that is in ounces?
Maybe the Coil needs to be set! (GAP) :(:thumbsup:
 

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I would run 40:1 or 42:1 ratio............Synthetics like Maxxim Castor 927 offer sweet engine protection to allow the engine to run 50:1 safely.......I have two designated X1's thats running 40:1 and 50:1 to see the effects..........

32:1 is something like 4.1 ounces of oil per gallon.......I mix 3.2 ounces of oil per gallon in one bike for 40:1 and 2.5 ounces in the other for 50:1......If I were to mix to 42:1 Id mix 3 oz's of oil to a gallon of premium fuel........

I visually check cylinder condition through the exhaust ports on both engines periodically and I have to say the 50:1 engine is holding its own way above the clouds so far for engine cleanliness aswell as a crispy powerband............The topend kits for these small engines are cheap to replace and besides 2 smoke race mx bikes have a 60 hour racing service life before being totally refurbed...............My 50:1 X1 bike has close to 200 hours on it at the moment and the compression is only a tad lower than it was when I finished breaking it in

So when youre looking at the pricetag on the more expensive oils youre not only buying quality but your also purchasing the best protection for your engine....

I already know how fast the engines and exhaust pipes get caked up with carbon build-up on mixes like 36:1 and 32:1 thats not synthetic and way past the break-in period and also know how much that carbon build up robs power........
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well i got my new parts.... :D i put on the flywheel and my new pullstarter... when i was tunning it and pulled the pullstarter it sounded weird like it was stripping the flywheel agian, so i took off the pullstarter and when i rotated the fly wheel it will putt twice then spin freely... :eek: why is that? im just having a beep ton of problems with my engine on getting it started agian, do you guys know what that could be? im not very pocket bike avy as you can tell :mad:

thanks for all this information guys, i had no clue it would be this hard for me to get something ohh so little running agian :p
 
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