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Ive gone with 55mm that should do the trick.Thanks馃憤
Same length for the 3 alan screws aswell?
 

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I have a 50cc W/C C1 ( Blata clone ) and 39cc air cooled Blata engine in a C1 water cooled frame, and 50cc Banshee Sho ( Polini W/C ) in an alum frame chrome plated clone of my Italian GRC GP BZM powered Euro bike.
 

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A new C1 clone clutch is $20 or less. You can put Blata or Polini springs on your clone clutch
 

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A new C1 clone clutch is $20 or less. You can put Blata or Polini springs on your clone clutch
The same deal with the cag clutches applies with the clone rep parts aswell.

if you disassemble the clutch and weigh each arm seperately youll see weights that differ alot more than the acceptable weight limits between the heaviest and the lightest,

Problem is the chinese metallurgy...Its not entirely exact when they make their alloys so the weights differ because of this.

Another thing to note if it hasnt been covered already is pre-baking the clutchpads to fully cure the adheisive bonding that secures the pad to the shoe.

Before you reassemble the clutch it would be wise to change the clutch housing bearing plus take 80-100 grit sandpaper to deglaze aswell as roughen the bell.


Any old pad material glazed onto the drum will make faster destruction of your new clutch than normal.
 

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the next step in the modification of the china clutch, is to cut a m 4 thread in the base plate at the side of the arms of the clutch in order to install small m 4 worm screws there. So you can adjust the distance of the coupling arms. The diameter of the Chinaclutches is usually 75-77mm and that is not enough for a good function. The best performance is achieved with 0.5 - 1mm distance to the bell and it can also be compensated for the wear without a small bell.
 

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the next step in the modification of the china clutch, is to cut a m 4 thread in the base plate at the side of the arms of the clutch in order to install small m 4 worm screws there. So you can adjust the distance of the coupling arms. The diameter of the Chinaclutches is usually 75-77mm and that is not enough for a good function. The best performance is achieved with 0.5 - 1mm distance to the bell and it can also be compensated for the wear without a small bell.
I found it takes a keen balance to dial them in...

A larger gap requires lighter spring pressures.It also allows the power to hit alot harder from a dead standstill aswell as midrange punch.......

Once youve mastered the formula between diameter size,spring type and clutch arm weight alls you have to do is keep replicating it over and over.


I know guys who will run a clutch a certain amount of race heats then swap out for another new clutch then the half worn clutches are reworked to operate flawlessly on its decline to maximize clutch life.
 
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