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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m starting a new thread here because this is another issue and the other thread is getting to long and losing focus… ;)

Update: I have blown my piston and ring due to my engine running to lean. Now I have a little pressure more pressure after a few fixes and the bike is running again. I have a Dell Orto SHA 14/14… StrayDawg told me my jetting was way too low for where I live..(Thanks Dawg) I was cheap and tried to drill my Jet to .080 because I had the micro drill bits. It broke in side it and I had to enlarge it to .091. It started but it was running horrible and was super Rich.. The oil was coming out between the engine and exhaust and it was obvious it was rich…

I bought an assortment of new jets and started with 78. It started right up and sounded better. On the bench it wasn’t so bad and sounded strong after a bog or two.. I took it out warmed her up again and it had no bottom end but did speed up. It was hanging onto the RPM’s after the full throttle tests so I took it home and changed to the 74. It now took about 4-5 pulls but started and sounded good after some throttle adjusting.. I took it out again, almost seemed like it didn’t want to start. After about 10 pulls it got going and sounded really good. I rode it around a little at low speeds but did try to gun it a few times.. Still some loss of power from what I had before but its running pretty good and fast for 125 PSI.. I was thinking if I went down one more to 73 I might find the sweet spot..

Now… I just took out the plug and its gray and dry…. Still super lean…. Am I missing something? Do I need to change the needle or something… Why am I still so dry? I’m running 25:1 Lucas Semi Synthetic and 91 octane. I downloaded the manual for the SHA so time to start digging in but figured I post my problems first. Should have read that before I went crazy but it seemed to be running so good… Any tuning or life saving techniques would be much appreciated!!! Thanks to EPR, StrayDawg and CAM for all the help you’ve given me… I appreciate every bit of it!!!

That turned out long… Sorry!

Cheers!
 

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Hey there isnt a needle in the 14/14 Del. Have you check to be sure there isnt a air leak around the carb area? I still thing you need a bigger main for that aircooled motor. All that oil coming out of your exhaust is from being to rich with your oil in your mix that it cant burn so it leaks out of the exhaust. Your over run may be what is called a lean over run.

I know at times when I check the compression I would get low readings and found it to be leaking from the fitting on the gauge. So I since started using some sparkplug thread sealer on the fitting and on the sparkplug. Your pulling the start until you cant pull no more when testing right plus let it set for say 10 minutes to see if it holds the pressure to. Have you checked the your reeds are sealing good to by holding it up to a light while looking at the motor side. Some times you can over tighten the screws and make the reeds warp so they done seal good.

Plus I think you need to make sure your clutch is set close to 8500 rpm's to or it can seem like a carb problem and that maybe why you feel that power lose in your bottom end. If its not set close it can make you chase your tail tuning the carb.. Heres how I go about setting up the bike. First we need a idle than I check for a airleak than set the clutch than tune the carb.

Tell me what the springs are set at and measure your clutch and tell me what it is and your clutch bell to. Your clutch should be 2mm smaller than your bell. If its way off that can cause your lose in power in your low end to.
 

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Those 14/14 carbs are pesky..I had one on my $30.00 half fairing cag..Those plastic flatslides errode fast causing airleaks and the float setting is crucial aswell as carb angle..The rubber shields at the cables are crucial aswell as the small gasket sealing the carb top.........I also had to modify the fuel banjo and drill the carb body to aid more fuel delivered to the carb faster aswell......

What I like to do is set the float rich so it overflows then set the float just short of overflowing and I do it with a spare gastank on a bench with a 14x14 shallow pan under the carb to save time..After setting the carb perfectly I install it onto the bike to check the tune...

Seeings you just re-used the cylinder and didnt hone it Id say youre not gonna get nearly the performance as you should.....

 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When I turn the carb over to unscrew the float bowl it leaks out the top under the cable connector. I have a new gasket on it so almost thought that was normal with these carbs. NO? Is this where my leak is coming from. The Carb gasket kit came with that Cork Strip. Where does that go? The reason I don’t think the jets small is it runs worse and worse as it gets bigger.. But the possible leak.. ARG!

The reeds seem to be in good shape and seal tight. I’ll get a light to them as soon as I can..
I will try to plug sealer on the gauge and hold it for 10 mins to see I can get a better reading.

I’m not really sure how to adjust the clutch right.. I just tightened the springs a little. I’ll get the measurements on the clutch and housing asap also..

I will also try to reset my float a little.. I’m gonna go try to find a air leak first.. Thanks again guys! You rock!

Jon
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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2,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm impatient.. lol.. So the Cork strip is for under the air screen.. I put the tiny round gasket under the main Jet(There was none and dont know where else it would go), I put the new rubber gasket behind the plastic intake sleeve, and one on the reed intake because it didnt feel like it was going back all the way.. I also went up to the 76 jet, you are scaring me StrayDawg.. lol I dont want it to blow...

It now sounds really good now. Its not holding onto the RPM's and idleing ok.. A little up and down but seems to be a little better.. Maybe it was a leak!

I'll take it out in just a bit to give it another break in and test run.. I'll check the clutch after i get it running smooth.. Thanks again for the advice! Don't know what I would do without this site... :rolleyes:

Cheers!
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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2,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Haha, another update... It sounds and Idled good with the 76 but still has a loss of power.. Seems the higher the jet the slower it goes.. Ran it for about 20 minutes on and off, took it home and the Plug is still gray… Still seems a bit lean… Do I go higher again now that the air leak might be fixed?

**** these Jets… Not so easy to change them with my frame….

So the clutch housing is still real close to 80mm, the pads are about 1.5 - 2mm thick, and the total diameter pad to pad is only 74mm.. Far from that 2mm. :(

So time to adjust.. Any good tips? The search brought up a bunch of threads but none seem to match.. I'll go further. But any tips on adjusting the clutch would be much appreciated.. I screwed them tighter the other day.. Did that bring them out? lol... I'll use the caliper next time!

Cheers!
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
So I put the 82 Jet in to see if I get an oily plug. The plug is black this time... So looks like your right again Stray. I think it did have the air leak so it was running lean with the higher jets. Now that the possible air leak has been fixed it seems to be getting oil again. So looks like I need in between a 76 – 82 It maybe held onto the RPMs a little still with the 82 but it did it more before with the 80 and the air leak that could be fixed. or not? lol I don’t think it’s getting the compression I want but I’m not going to buy another ring and Piston. Going to wait till I can upgrade to the L/C 50..

I never found a SHA 14.14 specific manual but here is the parts breakdown if any one needs it. The Manual I found is just a general one and the forums won’t let me upload a PDF.

N!pples

Another update: With the 82 it was running like crap so back down to the 76.. Higher than the lean 74 and sounds good and strong. Let’s hope it mixes some oil.. Seems to be dark after my few warm up runs..

The looser the clutch spring nuts the sooner it engages and assuming the further the reach... Think I got it..

Cheers!
 

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The L/C 50 sounds like a good plan, maybe your cylinder is to big now. You might try taking it off, again, and cross sanding the cyld walls. If the walls are slick and polished looking the edge of the new rings have nothing to bite into. I always sand the cylinder lightly before I assemble it, if it is used and I have new rings.
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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2,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ya, think its too big.. CAM Mentioned the Cross sanding also. I just forgot to do it when I had it apart.. Silly Me.. What grit should I use?

With the 76 Jet it ran awesome but the plug turned gray again. :( Ordered a 77 should be here tomorrow.. It didn't run so good with the 78 so I'm crossing my fingers..

I cant wait till I can afford the Upgrade.. I just need so much more: Clutch housing with Pully, BZM 50 cc cylinder kit, 1 of the water pump mounts and new carb.. Soooo much money....

lol some day....

Guess I need to try and adjust that float also.. I have to search for a tutorial..
 

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If you get the 50cc kit, 46cc I believe. If you can get a 19mm rubber intake manifold for that engine, I have afew 19mm Dell PHGB copy carbs here, was going to use them on Cags, but can't make it work right. I have a kit I got at hk motos 1 1/2 years ago for $58 for my W/C C1, carb, manifold air filter, cable, everything you need. It's on my bike now, I was burning in them new clutches yesterday, Springs set way to soft, it kick in and out and the clutches grab before the engine gets enough RPMs,lol.
StrayDawg, helped my with the jetting, Lean it's Not,lol, but wide open it Screams.
 
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