#25H chain Tensile Strength is 550kgh and #25 is 875... ok ok the H is for heavy duty (tensile strength) which only helps when length comes into play... pocket bikes need not apply...
Difference between #25 and #25H chain...
I got to spend some time working on the L7 tonight and noticed something about the chain stuff I was repairing.
First thing I noticed was that the stock chain on my L7 was a 142 link, type 'H' chain with 6/68 stock gearing.
This stock chain seemed to be 'pre-kinked' from day one and I have been looking to replace it with an H type chain FWIW.
I ended up getting some regular #25 chain (ANSI spec, #25-1R) and then compared the difference in sideplate thickness with the stock '25H' chain. I snugged the caliper down on the 25H sideplate, locked it in position, and then used the feeler gauge with the 'regular' #25 chains' sideplate, until I got the same 'feel' of drag in the caliper... (I checked a few times FWIW)
I measured a big whopping .140mm difference between the two chains sideplate thickness. Hardly worth the extra money for the '#25H' IMHO...
We ended up choosing the regular #25 chain and I figure that we gained (at the bare minimum) about .00138HP due to the engine having less reciprocating mass to deal with now...
If anyone would like to chime in and explain 'why' their #25H chain is somehow 'better' or 'stronger', please feel free. I saw very little difference betweeen the two types of chain and I can not justify spending the extra $$$ on .140mm more thickness...
Allthough that difference in price may seem slight... It WILL buy a pile of cheap beer and/or DOES save money for future MODS...
IamCornholio and I hope this helps some guy who is using the 'search' button at some point in time...
First thing I noticed was that the stock chain on my L7 was a 142 link, type 'H' chain with 6/68 stock gearing.
This stock chain seemed to be 'pre-kinked' from day one and I have been looking to replace it with an H type chain FWIW.
I ended up getting some regular #25 chain (ANSI spec, #25-1R) and then compared the difference in sideplate thickness with the stock '25H' chain. I snugged the caliper down on the 25H sideplate, locked it in position, and then used the feeler gauge with the 'regular' #25 chains' sideplate, until I got the same 'feel' of drag in the caliper... (I checked a few times FWIW)
I measured a big whopping .140mm difference between the two chains sideplate thickness. Hardly worth the extra money for the '#25H' IMHO...
We ended up choosing the regular #25 chain and I figure that we gained (at the bare minimum) about .00138HP due to the engine having less reciprocating mass to deal with now...
If anyone would like to chime in and explain 'why' their #25H chain is somehow 'better' or 'stronger', please feel free. I saw very little difference betweeen the two types of chain and I can not justify spending the extra $$$ on .140mm more thickness...
Allthough that difference in price may seem slight... It WILL buy a pile of cheap beer and/or DOES save money for future MODS...
IamCornholio and I hope this helps some guy who is using the 'search' button at some point in time...
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Well you can say that it's 14% thicker, stronger than the other one, and maybe it's not made in china, so it automatically makes it better
icebreakr said:...and maybe it's not made in china, so it automatically makes it better
At Memphis Bearing they had the #25, 'import' (Chinese
) chain for @$2.50 per foot with .50cent masterlinks and they had some USA made #25 chain for @$9.70 per foot . The difference in price was simply amazing to me...Thanks for the input as well Buzzy390.
After comparing the different chains, and seeing for myself the whopping .140mm difference... I tend to agree that my bike should be just fine with the regular #25. I will know for sure once the chain is broken in and I can see how much (if any) it has stretched or loosened up.
I appreciate all the input and expertise guys. Thanks
It really gets hard to 'live with myself' when I consider the other aspects of the 'Chinese' purchase...bike mad yank said:
Such as what it is doing to the American worker, the trade deficit we have with them, and exactly how much of the USA's 'debt' is owned by the chinese...
Our family actually does think about things like this and there is a reason that we do not shop at WalMart very often...
Thanks for the input friend...
AgentGreen said:
What brand was the Japanese chain and where did you find it?
I have allready bought many replacement bearings for the bike and they came from Japan as well. The NEW, non-used, 'Chinese' bearing in my 3rd bearing support felt like it had sand in it from day one... The Japanese 626Z that I bought to replace it with does not have this problem.
Thanks for the info AgentGreen!
but those damn chinese buffets are so hard to avoid, and you even get ice cream.. all for under $10.. sure is sum tasty cat
true, they always get ya there. when u leave u are stuffed. about 10 minutes later its like.... oh im hungrybut those **** chinese buffets are so hard to avoid, and you even get ice cream.. all for under $10.. sure is sum tasty cat
anyways. where do u guys find your chains? hardware store maybe? or like lowe's, home depot or something? i don't feel like paying 15$ for a chain that i have to wait for in the mail. and i actually need like a couple feet and a breaker so i have spare chain all the time... also does the #25H and #25 chain fit the same sprocket/pinion? or are they used on diff size ones.
Yes the chainbreaker pushes the whole pin without doing any grinding and also remends the chain too which I give the pin a small whack with a hammer to make sure it stays attached together.....
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Hey bud. First of all, chains don't normally "reciprocate" from what I've seen. It's "rotational mass" but no point splitting hairs. Secondly, chain sidewall thicknessI got to spend some time working on the L7 tonight and noticed something about the chain stuff I was repairing.
First thing I noticed was that the stock chain on my L7 was a 142 link, type 'H' chain with 6/68 stock gearing.
This stock chain seemed to be 'pre-kinked' from day one and I have been looking to replace it with an H type chain FWIW.
I ended up getting some regular #25 chain (ANSI spec, #25-1R) and then compared the difference in sideplate thickness with the stock '25H' chain. I snugged the caliper down on the 25H sideplate, locked it in position, and then used the feeler gauge with the 'regular' #25 chains' sideplate, until I got the same 'feel' of drag in the caliper... (I checked a few times FWIW)
I measured a big whopping .140mm difference between the two chains sideplate thickness. Hardly worth the extra money for the '#25H' IMHO...
We ended up choosing the regular #25 chain and I figure that we gained (at the bare minimum) about .00138HP due to the engine having less reciprocating mass to deal with now...
If anyone would like to chime in and explain 'why' their #25H chain is somehow 'better' or 'stronger', please feel free. I saw very little difference betweeen the two types of chain and I can not justify spending the extra $$$ on .140mm more thickness...
Allthough that difference in price may seem slight... It WILL buy a pile of cheap beer and/or DOES save money for future MODS...
IamCornholio and I hope this helps some guy who is using the 'search' button at some point in time...
varies from manufacturer to manufacturer & even from batch to batch. It's even slightly possible you got regular #25 that second time. It could also be a better grade of steel, who knows but one test is hardly scientific. Guess thats why were not scientists, speaking for myself only, of course.
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