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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My first gas powered scooter

Checking every now and then on CL and stumbled into a posting which had a scooter parts for $20.00.

Took the plunge and bought everything, no questions asked. It took some trial and error, but finally made it run.


It seems to be like a 27 or 29cc engine. I tried to install a 43cc square stock muffler and it would not fit.
The carb is very small compared to the standard 43/49. It is the same size on the throttle opening of a 23cc carb. Although very similar to 43, the prime bulb, bolt spacing is smaller. I am very impressed how such a little engine can deliver.

It was a quickie project. Had a old Tonka full suspension bike somewhere in the attic, and finally found some use for it.

It does 20 mph with 93 octane fuel according to two smartphone apps (170 pounds), 35:1 mix. Gonna paint the whole frame yellow and follow the Tonka theme. Its more than enough power for my son, he doesnt even go full throttle yet.

Tomorrow will install the rear drum and somehow see if I can adapt a front brake from a bicycle, if not leave it with rear brake only. Although its really not needed, this is no top end screamer.

Made a throttle from a left over brake lever. Added the handlebars from the Tonka bike, now it has more stability. It is much easier and safer for my son to accelerate with the hand brake mod throttle. If I recall, some jet skis have a similar design.

I like the bike much more w the lower style bmx bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Goofed around with this project for about a year or so, the kids used it to bash around the neighborhood.

Was my main source of transportation to buy lotto tickets to the nearest gas station and do my weekly neighborhood patrol rounds.

Ended changing the front bike tire, for a electric smaller diameter, much better ride quality.

Sold it the other day for $100.00, the guy needed something small and simple to get him to a fishing area where he lives.
 

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Re: My first gas powered scooter

I ended up also finding a scooter for 20$ on craigslist a XG-505 in good enough shape or so I thought.

With Everything I do nothing can be simple for me. I've discovered many things wrong that while fixable are just plain annoying. The rear axle seem fine but something makes the disc brake rub a lot on the rear wheel. The engine itself is "Fixable" but it's simply not worth it I would need a new engine unless I can find a way to convert the electric start to a pull start only. You see from what I know the standard engine come with a threaded side where the starter pawl goes on and the pull start attaches to but the electric start models have a wood ruff key that keeps the starter in place and the pull start attaches to that. the only thing I am thinking it maybe it could be done since you can use a M6 bolt to go into the crank since it's threaded on the inside for some reason. Anyways I am glad you were able to get your scooter working.
 

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On the brake caliper, it may not be over the disc right, or pads are to close to the disc, the disc is warp etc. There is a spring loaded alum adjustment nut on the caliper. Make sure the bracket is not bent and is holding the caliper centerd over the disc. On the end of the starter/generator housing shaft that screws on to the end of the crankshaft is where one of 2 different starter pawls and covers are at, the round or rectangle pawl screws on and or is held buy a nut. The you get a black plastic starter cover w/ rope and handle and bolt it over the pawl w/ four M5 x 0.8 x 25mm or so bolts. See photos, in the last one, you can see the reed port PBU custom billet alum Torker Exhaust Manifold w/ wings, bought 2 five years ago, $28 each, they work great on the spring held pipe head pipes.
Does the engine run at all. If the cases and crankshaft are good, buy a top end kit, new 49cc cyld, piston, rings, pin, clips, bearing and gaskets, $40 to $50.
 

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I sure it would had ran if I had not broken of a bolt in the crank side where the electric and pull start would have been. Just my ****ing luck right? Should have used a 12.9 grade bolt but I did not expect that bolt to snap off trying to drill start. I ended up ****ing the crank side up trying to get the stuck bolt out with a extrator and also broke a part of the aluminum on the magneto. I have looked at the back wheel and the Flywheel and brake disc are bent, the brake are both fine with lots of pad left on them. I am going to need to replace the engine and I should have just left it because I would have liked to have extra parts but I've broke a few things. it a sad state considering the engine was in very good shape other than the electric start and pull start. would you happen to have a link to the two starter pawls? I have seen both but only the ones that thread onto the crankshaft on a pre cut threaded unlike mine that is just a threaded hole for a strange double bolt and a woodruff key for the electric start. My engine is the same as the first picture on the right. would you happen to also have a good place to buy a 49cc with electric start like the one you have there?
 

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That grey engine I bought new & took the starter/generator housing off, modified a paw to fit the eng of the crankshaft. It just extra weight & the heavy magnets slow the 3hp engine down. The electric housing part is $30 to $35. There is a short shaft off the crank on the rope side, if the threads on the end broke off you buy a new shaft for $5, to lengths 2.5" and 2.625".
You may be able to save the engine, but I need photos, and your close to 3 post where you can post 5, 512Kb. or less photos.
New cases are $20 to $25. I have a new hot rod gold alloy head, high compression custom modified piston port engine for sale $250 shipped. This thing will be an Animal. Ready to put it on the engine stand. For $20 more I could put on & ship the new engine w/generator/starter electrical housing I took off the grey engine. You can have a choice of different carbs I have here, comes with air filter too. Does Not come w/ the Gold Cag clutch housing or box exhaust
 

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