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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the other GP3 Replica I got in that bundle deal.. I was waiting on a few parts, they arrived so I started messin with it… I was going to add this Replica fun in my Real polini thread but its turning out to be a long write.. lol Oh man, am I having super trouble with the pull starts.. lol Among other things… I broke the original pull start on the 2nd startup.. I tried to fix it with some Plastic welder but that only worked for one more start (high idle then and it quickly died).. I ordered a new Chinese one for 17.99 from the HKmotors.. LOL, We will see how long that takes to get here…


After the first pull start broke I tried the real polini pull start from the GP3. I did get it started 2 times and the Idle was screaming so I had to kill it both times.. I tried turning the idle all the way down and could see the slide (no filter) so know it was real low.. I wanted to count how many screws the Air/fuel screw was screwed in and noticed it was stuck. Kinda forced it out and found out it is stripped bad.. Soooo lol On this needle does the spring just sit in the hole or does the spring go over the needle then flat washer then the rubber washer to hold it together before it gets screwed in? On the real Del Orto the spring is on the pin and held on by that flat and rubber washers. This is how it should be ya?


It was stripped because the screw for the bowl was tapped all the way to the where the air/fuel screw goes in and one screw/bolt was a tad shorter than the other 3 and should have been used in this corner.. Because it the longer screw/bolt it went into the A/F screw threads and stripped it.. This was how I got it…. I also think the slide was backwards.. It goes in both ways unlike the Del Orto.. lol The arch was towards the intake not the filter like the del orto… Yay for Chinese parts… CHEER!


I put the stripped needle back in over the spring till it felt snug and did try a 3rd time, still screaming.. And on that 3rd try the polini pull start got stuck. I took it apart and it was only the grabber wire. It had slipped out from the little plastic clip that holds it in place.. I fixed it and tried again. This time it got a little co.ckeyed and the spring got stuck under the winder. I pushed the spring back in its slot and it wound up.. I tried again and the same thing.. I then placed it on the Polini again and it works fine on that bike.. It seems the replica might have too much compression and the pull starts cant handle it?! Or we have another problem?! Lol including the carb… The polini just pulls and starts soooo much easier and so did the other rep I had.. After the few short starts and letting it sit all night the pipe leaked all this black oil from the split where the spring is.. Seems real dark.. Do I have to tear this one down also… lol L

I did pick up a new air/fuel mixture screw and going to turn the slide around.. Maybe I’ll try one more time with the polini pull start before the other one makes it.. lol
Fun in the future for sure!
 

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This is the other GP3 Replica I got in that bundle deal.. I was waiting on a few parts, they arrived so I started messin with it… I was going to add this Replica fun in my Real polini thread but its turning out to be a long write.. lol Oh man, am I having super trouble with the pull starts.. lol Among other things… I broke the original pull start on the 2nd startup.. I tried to fix it with some Plastic welder but that only worked for one more start (high idle then and it quickly died).. I ordered a new Chinese one for 17.99 from the HKmotors.. LOL, We will see how long that takes to get here…


After the first pull start broke I tried the real polini pull start from the GP3. I did get it started 2 times and the Idle was screaming so I had to kill it both times.. I tried turning the idle all the way down and could see the slide (no filter) so know it was real low.. I wanted to count how many screws the Air/fuel screw was screwed in and noticed it was stuck. Kinda forced it out and found out it is stripped bad.. Soooo lol On this needle does the spring just sit in the hole or does the spring go over the needle then flat washer then the rubber washer to hold it together before it gets screwed in? On the real Del Orto the spring is on the pin and held on by that flat and rubber washers. This is how it should be ya?


It was stripped because the screw for the bowl was tapped all the way to the where the air/fuel screw goes in and one screw/bolt was a tad shorter than the other 3 and should have been used in this corner.. Because it the longer screw/bolt it went into the A/F screw threads and stripped it.. This was how I got it…. I also think the slide was backwards.. It goes in both ways unlike the Del Orto.. lol The arch was towards the intake not the filter like the del orto… Yay for Chinese parts… CHEER!


I put the stripped needle back in over the spring till it felt snug and did try a 3rd time, still screaming.. And on that 3rd try the polini pull start got stuck. I took it apart and it was only the grabber wire. It had slipped out from the little plastic clip that holds it in place.. I fixed it and tried again. This time it got a little co.ckeyed and the spring got stuck under the winder. I pushed the spring back in its slot and it wound up.. I tried again and the same thing.. I then placed it on the Polini again and it works fine on that bike.. It seems the replica might have too much compression and the pull starts cant handle it?! Or we have another problem?! Lol including the carb… The polini just pulls and starts soooo much easier and so did the other rep I had.. After the few short starts and letting it sit all night the pipe leaked all this black oil from the split where the spring is.. Seems real dark.. Do I have to tear this one down also… lol L

I did pick up a new air/fuel mixture screw and going to turn the slide around.. Maybe I’ll try one more time with the polini pull start before the other one makes it.. lol
Fun in the future for sure!
I canfix that pullstarter no problem......two 2" diameter fender washers,,plastic welder & a longer bolt w/ bushing and a nut......It wont be pretty but it will be effective,,,,,,,
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I canfix that pullstarter no problem......two 2" diameter fender washers,,plastic welder & a longer bolt w/ bushing and a nut......It wont be pretty but it will be effective,,,,,,,
Hah, I did just that.. Screwed through the stem and the bottom put a long bolt with a nut and plastic welded it before i bolted it on.. Put it all back together and wound it up.. The center bolt was too high and hitting the crank shaft bolt.. I grinded that down till it fit.. It worked for about 7-10 pulls.. Almost got it started but then it got stuck.. When i Pulled it off and looked the plastc wheel broke where the metal prongs pop up on both sides.. Its Over! lol
 

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Wow, somedays it's better not to get out of bed,lol. I ordered a new water pump impeller and crank seals from SP4L, as soon as it stops raining going to pull the engine. Was looking at my Polini Rep engine too see if it will fit in the C1 frame, going to put it up to the frame when I pull the C1.
 

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Scooterparts4less online w/ the www. and the .com, he is 60 miles from me near the Oakland Raiders. I have a folder full of all the people I deal with,lol.
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hope to be able to understand the language going on in this thread someday lol


Cool bike, what brand is the authentic GP3?

EPR what is SP4L if you dont mind me asking.

thanks guys just trying to learn

The real GP3 is a Polini with the reverse model engine.. I have the real thing also.. You can find that thread in the water cooled pocket bike section.. "Tuning a Polini GP3?!" Still trying to get that one tuned right, had to put it on the back burner for a day or two...

Cheers!
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh the Woahs…. Lol.. So HKmotors Emailed and said He saw the payment but didn’t see my order in the warehouse” then asked what I ordered… lol Guess they have thier system down.. I sent him a link to the pull start I ordered and he said he would ship it tomorrow.. HAH, my luck I’ve been rushing to the mailbox as soon as I could to look for that dam thing…

I’ve had a little work so the projects have slowed but couldn’t help getting anxious after work today and decided to loosen up the squish a little so when the new China pull start came it wouldn’t crack under the pressure.. I removed the cylinder and head and added some Yamabond between the two.. It raised the squish from .38 to .78.. I was then able to use my polini pull start without it crapping out.. After I got it started and trying to get my first heat cycle in it started leaking water… The water pump is leaking and the gear melted up a bit..

Sooooo Long story short…. I need more parts! My case splitter doesn’t fit this case and I can’t find my Universal Puller… BAH!!! I also think I need a few new Carbs…

LOL
 

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Sounds like me, still working on the C1 engine but it is coming along nice. We lost power and then my generator ran out of gas after 3 hrs. Got gas an food now and a bigger storm coming,lol. You, getting any rain??
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ya its been raining on and off... Looks like its coming again... No power outages here.. It says 30% chance of rain tomorrow.. Maybe we can get out there to rage the lot...

I stripped the screw for the front pinin on the Reverse replica... **** thing was in there good or maybe a reverse thread screw... Anyone take one of these apart? I think I need a screw extractor or slap in on the press..

Bah!


**** it was ugly in there... Guess I really should have just torn the thing apart to begin with...
 

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Tonight were going to get up to 10" of rain and 50 mph winds.
Can you drill the screw out and retap the pinion thread the next size even if it is SAE, American 1/4" 28 or 5/16" 24 threads. I have an SAE and Metric Tap & Die set. If you are careful you can drill out to the edge of the old threads and pickout whats left and run a tap thru it. I broke the crank end bolt head off trying to start it with a power tool. I removed all of what was left and tapped it.
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I got the screw out but still need to go one step bigger and then re tap it.. I Dont have the right bit or tap.. Hardware store soon.. lol

I am pretty impatient so I decided to still parts from the Polini Reverse since I have to wait on tuning parts for it anyway.. This way I can sell the Replica and get more needed parts and pay a bill or two(maybe).. lol I used the Clutch Bell and reverse axle, the water pump pulley and Bearings, the main gasket and a real polini 82mm Clutch with some good padding left on it. Once the Yamabond dries a little more I can go tighten the head and try to start it.. I think I’m going to need two new Carbs also.. I don’t think my Del Orto 19 or the Rep Carb are doing well.. Even without the right needles, Atomizer and slide I should get a little change when adjusting thee A/f Screw… Neither one seem to do much.. I wan’t a 19 for for the Polini and maybe just a 18 for the Reverse.. I hope I can make one of the carbs I have here for the Replica work… Oh the rainy day fun!!

Cheers
 

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I got the screw out but still need to go one step bigger and then re tap it.. I Dont have the right bit or tap.. Hardware store soon.. lol

I am pretty impatient so I decided to still parts from the Polini Reverse since I have to wait on tuning parts for it anyway.. This way I can sell the Replica and get more needed parts and pay a bill or two(maybe).. lol I used the Clutch Bell and reverse axle, the water pump pulley and Bearings, the main gasket and a real polini 82mm Clutch with some good padding left on it. Once the Yamabond dries a little more I can go tighten the head and try to start it.. I think I’m going to need two new Carbs also.. I don’t think my Del Orto 19 or the Rep Carb are doing well.. Even without the right needles, Atomizer and slide I should get a little change when adjusting thee A/f Screw… Neither one seem to do much.. I wan’t a 19 for for the Polini and maybe just a 18 for the Reverse.. I hope I can make one of the carbs I have here for the Replica… Oh the rainy day fun!!

Cheers
If your a/f mix screw isnt responding try lessening the amount of holes in the atomizer tube.....My cag w/19mm carb wasnt responding when I first had it on until I fiddled with it...............Take superglue and start by closing up two holes and then trying the results........If it doesnt work the results can be easily reversed by soaking it in acetone......If it improves try closing up 1-2 more and then see if you can get a reaction to the screw
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Awesome, I will give it a shot!! On these 19's the A/F screw is supposed to be set up like the one below with the Spring on it ya?? The Replica had the Washers set up like the one on top and the spring was just sitting in the hole...
 

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Awesome, I will give it a shot!! On these 19's the A/F screw is supposed to be set up like the one below with the Spring on it ya?? The Replica had the Washers set up like the one on top and the spring was just sitting in the hole...
Yeah I forgot about that aswell......Mine was installed the same way on the rep carb,,,wrong...LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
HAHA! Nope.. Leaked water when i blew into the Water reservoir to push water in.. Seemed like only at the head.. I Used yamabond around those old rings because I didn’t have a replacement rings.. I popped the cap and cylinder didn’t seem to have any water in it.. I managed to find an outer ring and I flipped the inner ring.. I slapped it back together and when I put water in it again and blew it seemed to drip out or around the exhaust port or cylinder and cap seemed good... I took both off this time and it seems like the Yamabond didn’t stick to the tin gasket.. It seemed wet still and just peeled or fell off… It was stuck to the cylinder ok.. I let it dry for about 6 hours.. Before I really tightened it the first time.. Ohhhh the Woahs.. lol I need the gasket and yamabond because the squish is so low..

Maybe two metal gaskets and copper spray like I did the 5 Port BZM head?!? Guess I’m in experimental mode.. lol
 

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Do the 2 gasket and copper spray. I used Ultra High Temp Permatex RTV silicon, up to 750 degrees, on the C1 at the cylinder base gasket and on the Dupont Viton outer water sealing head O ring. I would call Tsun and see if they have the Viton O rings that fit your engine, there very tough. I love that water pump belt and the clutch too.
Lost power again, on PB stuff I did in 3 days is put a 603 Walbro on Cag Alum boost fitting manifod & 19mm V-stack with choke set up for the Cag Daytona Z1 engine, so now I have all the stuff I need to make a complete engine.
Keep your chin up and keep working on it till you get it right,lol.
 

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What I do is take the yamabond and fill up the o-ring groove then float the o-ring on top...I let the Yamabond skin a lil then I install the headcap with screws or capnuts snug...I leave it for a couple hours then I tighten and leave to cure for a full 24 hours before putting the engine into service...............
 
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