Pocketbike Forum banner

help gp3 woodruff key

2722 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  EPR
hello i would like to know if the woodruff key on the crank are the same one bouth sides i.e at the same place as when i puth the starter end wood ruff key at the top senter and then look on the other side i.e the clutch side its off to the right allmost a quorter turn the the right can some one help as i dont get my clutch pullinbg tool till munday and well im wurrying i might have ruind the wood ruff key on the clutch side and if i have what can i do im pulling my hair out help asap thanks
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
You mean the rocket key? Some clutches dont have any, but the flywheel side always does. is it broken? remove the flywheel like I said in the other post, seize it with rags and use some pry with flat head screw drivers. use some grease or wd40, dont pry to hard so you dont warp the crank case.
just pute the picks up of my engine and well i cant get any thing behinde the clutch as its in the drum and i think there is a key the clutch side as its got a bit keepet out of the hole where it slides on the crank and also i have loads of rust in the radiator on my gp3 i know its from my water pump in side the engine thats why im doing this rebild how ever i dont know how to get it out of the radator thats all any idears as well as trying to get the clutch off haha and have to say i wos wurryd of doing this as the engine blue prints seem well the engines are very complex but the more i look at the engine i think ill be okay hahaha


See less See more
if the rad is clogged, trash it and order a new one. your going to need a puller for the clutch probably.
well iv got a clutch puller comeing and well i cant get a new one as every where iv looked are sold out im a bit puffftttt about that and well i just wont to ride it hahaha what bike you got? and allso i wos thinking of geting a ne wone well a real one but cant deside between the gp5 or the gp6 and also the blata ultima and what do i go for 50cc or 39 any idears my girl friend wonts to get me a new one hahah she got me this one witch i wont to races but i like haveing a rep as i feel like i have more to prove haha on the track
working on a CAG quad at the moment, just sold my Elite 13 WRS, didint have time for it anymore, but it was a monster.

CF reeds
FC crank with 12mm wrist pin
3 Port 44mm head kit, deburred and polished
moded wrist pin bearing
Weight reduced flywheel
Weight reduced 3 shoe clutch
Hp clutch springs
rocket key
NGK CR7HIX sparkplug
1/8' fuel filter
aluminum pullstart


See less See more
Love the quad and wow it sounds like a beast and so maybe something with lots of Pawer then and so maybe I go for a blata then? Not Polini?
On the keyless clutches and others they glue them on, that's why they are hard to get off. The crank is semetrical you can turn it either way for clutch or flywheel, so you could turn it over if you have a bad slot on the flywheel side you can move it to the clutch side, and glue it on.
i dont know if i can do that as i have a gp3 reverse engine its a bit more complex i think its fine but i dont know till the postman comes today with my crank case spliter and my clutch puller hahaha
That only works on a 47 or 49cc Cag, the GP3 is probably different on both ends of the crank.
well i got the clutch off and that but no crank case splitter so now still have to wait grrr its really killing me not haveing all the tools and well i had to drill out the scrue on the drive sharft to get the ten tooth cog off because the scrue wos stuck on lol did that got it off then taped new scrue lines in so can get a new one in there so all good on that frunt but not the case spliting side
When I got my C1 from Tsun in Canada, took 8 days to get everything right so I could ride it. If you have a China bike, and the factory worker screws it up it just keeps going. I remember the insides of the SS chain guards where razor sharp. Have to do alot of work on these bikes, had to shim the engine mount with SS thin flat washers cause it was loose in the frame & replace bolts,etc.
First tools I got that I did not have already was a dremel electric rotory file and a $40 metric tap and die set, that has everything, easy outs and drill for them, spring loaded center punch and all, use it almost everyday. I tap every female thread on the engine & other places, and replace the bolts w/ M6 x 1.0 x how long socket/allen head grade 5, 8.8 bolts. I have some SS M5 x 0.8 x 50mm bolts hold some of my carbs to the intake manifold, and adding a boost bottle helps also.
On splitting the cases, most have 2 or more small pins keeping everything inline, try prying them apart with wooden or plastic piece that is thin and knife shaped edge. Make sure all the bolts are out of the cases and you might want to find out for sure how they come apart.
See less See more
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.