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Discussion Starter #1
Last Saturday, everything I can think of electrical worked (horn, electric start). Didn't have a headlight at the time, so there was no way to check. I finally got a screw for the oil pan, so I've put new oil in it (10w-40), added a new spark plug, bought a 44mm air filter (is that the right size? Seemed a bit too big), and a new fuel filter. What else should I try other than taking the entire wire harness off? Does anyone have a manual that tell me how to fix this stuff?
As for the green wire, can seem to find where it connects. Not sure if it was connected BEFORE the bike shut off..
As for the battery, its brand new so I don't think it needs to be cleaned, etc. Do I need to change/exchange anything else? Haven't triedf kick starting it because I had so much problems getting it working the first time. Suggestions?
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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Hi Roshonda, So I'm just gonna take some "Stabs in the dark" here, based on experience with other electrical systems, and not your specific bike...

For all the electrical to go down at once, and quickly, seems like it must be a fuse, there may be some type of fuse box with multiple fuses grouped together, pull one out at a time, and look to see if the metal "bridge" is still there (inside the glass or plastic) or if maybe the fuse has blown :eek: ...

I'm not sure measurement wise, since I do not know which carburetor you have, but if it's close, and you used some type of clamp, it will be fine!

If you could get some pictures up on photobucket of the engine, wires, and anything that seems odd, I bet at least one of us could be more helpful.

Testing the batteries is easy, but you will need a $10 volt meter (multi meter) from Harbor-freight tools, or some other tools place...

Nick.
 

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NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNIS
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Well if its cranking I don't think its a fuse but def check I could b wrong but I don't think the x bikes will crank with a blown fuse check to c if you are getting spark at the spark plug while cranking then go from there as for he filter im not sure about mm I think its 35mm don't quote me on that but I do know in inches its 1.25 for the stock carb sorry im to tired to convert it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help guys. I have the stock carburetor on there (19mm i think?). As I mentioned before, it was running and just shut off. Could a fuse have blown like that? I'm not sure where a fuse box may be, but it looks as though I'm going to have to take ALL the wiring loose and start from the beginning... Can anyone identify this green wire? Its in the front of the bike going towards the headlights. The wire is by itself but it has a harness connector like it should attach to something. It appears to be coming from the engine itself. Based on the readings from other posts, I'm thinking it MAY be a ground wire. Let me know what you think.
 

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NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNIS
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I have the same wire thicker than the other wires just cut on my 06""x 18 and I believe it goes to my starter or near it get your self a cheap test light at the local parts store and c what's up to see if its live or not
 

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green is generally ground in these bikes, tho its not uncommon to see plugs that go to nowhere
there is only one fuse near the neck
id kick it and make sure your getting spark, if it is then its your carb betcha
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. I'll try to kick start when I get home. If not, do you suggest buying a new carb? I'll probably never be a racer, but wouldn't mind going a little faster. Pocketbikeparts.com is about 45 mins south of me. Can you recommend some cost efficient items for me to get to get it up and running? Something to make it easier to kickstart?
 

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Buy some starter fluid[ether] and spray it into the rear of the carb with the throttle cranked open...........If it starts up its a carb problem...If it doesnt its a sparkplug ,,CDI ,, coil wiring or Stator problem

Id also get a new NGK sparkplug C7HSA

You dont need to buy a new carb unless the bike is newer than an 08.........

You just need to totally disassemble it to clean it out..........To prevent recontamination I suggest you remove and wash out the fuel tank...............

For a bike that doesnt run you need to remove all the bodywork............this makes it easier to see everything and get to things easier.............Getting it off is a pain and requires you to be a contiortionist but if you buy spring clips and u-nuts itll go back on alot easier..............

The 3 biggest things with these bikes are poor wiring,,crappily built stators and crappy carbs with mondo vents that fume away the fuels volitility leaving behind a gel of cornoil that clogs-up carbs

They sell a fuel treatment enzyme that treats ethanol and keeps it from going stale...I use Fitch.Its better and cheaper in the long run because its always in the tank and I dont have to remember to use it because its always working in my tank as long as theres fuel in it.....................

A digital multimeter and a basic socketset with screwdrivers are needed and will get you up and running again.................

Remove the carb and totally disassemble it............Clean everything with carb cleaner and a welding tip cleaner tool

factory carb settings are.......c-clip 3rd notch..............a/f screw 2 full turns out..............float setting is 10degrees







 

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Everything needs a ground to the frame to have a complete circuit. That could be a ground for an accessory. I would look at that too. The bike starts without a battery too. My X18 battery is toast. It makes its own power and even runs the lights. They get bright when you get some RPMs going.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok. I'll see what may be missing a connection. And I'll try kickstarting! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sure hope you're right nick! Headed to pocketbikeparts as we speak!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, so i took thje old stock air filter off. It had another hose coming from engine, where do i put that? I put a new filter on (35mm with 90 degree angler). Put a performance fuel filter on. Put in premuim fuel and tried to kick start... Nothing. I guess the next option is to take off the carb and cleanit as suggested, but I'm apprehensive because I don't want to make things worse... We'll see how this goes...
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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I think Blitz had a really good idea, Pull out the spark plug, then put it back in the spark plug "Rubber Boot" Hold the plug by the rubber (don't get a little tiny zap that way) hold the threaded section of the spark plug up to the metal of the engine or even the frame (just to add a ground path) then kick start the bike and look for the spark plug to spark.

I think he had it right by checking spark next...

Good Luck! keep it up! YOU RoCK!!!! :D :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you're refering to the L shaped cover that goes over the plug after its screwed into the bike, its metal also! Lol! But I'll try it... Going to home depot to see if they have one of those volt meter things or some jumper cables... If I don't write back in a hour or so, that means I've killed mtself attempting something stupid!
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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If you're refering to the L shaped cover that goes over the plug after its screwed into the bike, its metal also! Lol! But I'll try it... Going to home depot to see if they have one of those volt meter things or some jumper cables... If I don't write back in a hour or so, that means I've killed mtself attempting something stupid!

ahhhh :eek: Rubber Dish Gloves, They have a full load of electrons already, and should not let any more "Voltage" get to you! Yes, I did just recommend "Dish Gloves" to stop Electrical Shocks.

Engineer's are Silly!

Nicky. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You're going tro kill me! Lol. I apprehensively tried the kickstarting thing. Of course it didn't work. (I only got it kickstarted once. When it did run). I'll try the dish gloves idea in a second... Btw, got a volt meter from home depot for $6.95.... The battery is good...
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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So, the way the ignition works on most CDI controlled bikes (4-strokes) is somewhat like this...

12v from the battery, to the coil, voltage is stored / built up there, then the "Pulsar" pickup coil watches for engine (piston) position, and at the right time the pulsar (pickup) coil tells the CDI "NOW" ! at which point the CDI should fire a spark through it's lead and out to the plug. These small bikes, can usually fire, even with no battery power. <-- I think...

Sometimes the 12v will go to the CDI too, or other times just to the CDI and not to the coil at all. I truly am not used to working on the little 110cc 4-strokes, I usually work on small 2-strokes, or REALLY BIG 4-strokes...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok. Thanks Nick. Couldn't find any rubber dish gloves and my friends seem to think the garden gloves are have are a bad idea... How do I check to see if its the CDI thats not "picking up"?
 
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