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It's ok, but its $119 + $40 extra for the carb they are showing, so $160 and it has no FC crank which is a must for an HP engine.
Go to hkmotos online, in Hong Kong, and for $90 get the head/cyld kit with FC crank and everything you need and build your own engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's ok, but its $119 + $40 extra for the carb they are showing, so $160 and it has no FC crank which is a must for an HP engine.
Go to hkmotos online, in Hong Kong, and for $90 get the head/cyld kit with FC crank and everything you need and build your own engine.
Is that the same as this kit if i built my own, less the carb & clutch assembly? Thanks!

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=130625883085&index=8&nav=SEARCH&nid=02410235176

I also saw this http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=370632719414&index=10&nav=SEARCH&nid=49719089246
 

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You would be better off with the $39 first kit and get a 12mm FC crank for $25 at hkmotos. I would get the $90 kit winged head kit from hk, mod it and your stock carb and reeds & stops and get or make a good clutch and 3rd bearing housing.
 

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You would be better off with the $39 first kit and get a 12mm FC crank for $25 at hkmotos. I would get the $90 kit winged head kit from hk, mod it and your stock carb and reeds & stops and get or make a good clutch and 3rd bearing housing.
Finally saw the link on the kit. The only thing is the color. I'll email them to see if it comes in different colors.

Read info on Full circle crank definitely makes sense to get that.
 

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It's not an HP crank, it a 49cc 12mm stock Cag crank. The 47cc had a 10mm bearing and when they built the 49cc they machine the rod to 12mm and called it an HP crank other than the bearing size the cranks are the same junk. You need a FC crank, cause it fills more space in the cases and will give a better fuel flow.
 

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It's not an HP crank, it a 49cc 12mm stock Cag crank. The 47cc had a 10mm bearing and when they built the 49cc they machine the rod to 12mm and called it an HP crank other than the bearing size the cranks are the same junk. You need a FC crank, cause it fills more space in the cases and will give a better fuel flow.
The heavy Duty crank comes in this engine kit.........http://www.bigmotorsport.com/products/Stage-3-Big-Bore-44mm-Upgrade-Kit.html

Well according to my weight calculations it is alot heavier than a stock crank.You need the extra weight to help throw the weight of the piston on the upstroke..The extra mass of the counterweights reduces crankcase volume alil more than the stock crank on the left....You can see the differences in this pic...


The stock crank is on the left..Weighted at 309.2 grams and the Heavy Duty crank is on the right weighted at 337.2 grams....

 

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It looks like the FC crank don't have enough counter weight with all the extra metal around the rod area, how does that work??
 

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It looks like the FC crank don't have enough counter weight with all the extra metal around the rod area, how does that work??
The FCC balances the stroke in both directions creating a semi-juggernaut effect due to rotational weight to mass ratio..The whole full crankweights are the counterweight and kills any chance of high-rev vibrational distortion..the round crankweight helps keep the piston in motion with lesser upward resistance of a stock crank.......Its the weight of the piston,pin,pinbearing and clips that dictates the revs and distortional vibrations after that only..,,,Its also the same principal reason why they use full circle cranks in highend euro bikes.....
 

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On the hkmotos gold head kit w/ FC crank, you paint the head with black engine paint or what ever color you want. My blue head engine clylinder is painted black. Paint to match or accent your bike colors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
On the hkmotos gold head kit w/ FC crank, you paint the head with black engine paint or what ever color you want. My blue head engine clylinder is painted black. Paint to match or accent your bike colors.
EPR - Indeed you and CAM2 are the guru's in this site.

After spending some time taking the carb apart, cleaned (found debris inside), and re-assembled, checked coil gap, cleaned, lubed and adjusted chain, cleaned gas tank and replaced fuel lines and filter, there's spark on plug, will mix gas and oil tomorrow and try to get the motor started. I'm still missing air filter though but should still start, right?

Keepin fingers crossed!
 

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Yeah the motor will run w/o a air filter. I ran my bikes w/o air filters. Its not good to run them with something covering it. But they will run w/o it.
 
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