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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Razor PR200 without batteries and charger. I stripped it completely down, cleaned it all up, and installed 3 new 12v 7ah batteries. I've checked all my connections and batteries are putting out the 36v and the wheel turns yet does not have enough power to move me 1-2 mph. What am I missing?
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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Sit on the bike, keep the wheel from spinning, hook up your voltmeter (DC) to the batteries, open the throttle while not letting the bike move, while watching the volt meter, what are the batteries dropping to (voltage wise) ???

I'll help you fix it, Stop pulling your hair out, you need that to get the Chicks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok I just tried that again. If I unplug the motor and measure the volts coming from the plug it puts out 29volts and with the motor plugged in it maxes my volt meter out. Not sure why. Sometimes it'll dip down to 89-132 then maxes out at just 1. Ideas? by the way I really appreciate everyone's help very much.
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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Leave the motor plugged in, hit the positive and negative of the battery closest to the controller, do the same test, I want to see a number in DC volts that says something between 24 and lets say 16 volts, with the throttle wide open (full load applied) then I can probably tell you that the batteries need to be charger better or something else based on the numbers...

No problem, I can take apart the remote control and I can Almost put it back together! <----sorry listening to the Flo-Bots right now!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not exactly sure what you mean by the battery closest to the controller. I have 3 batteries wired in series. Here is what I measured just now. One battery (using the neg and pos terminals) give me 12 1/2 volts w/o throttle and 11 1/2 with throttle and me on it.
I also measured the power connector that goes to the controller and I get 39 volts w/o the throttle and 50 volts with the throttle on and me on it the bike.

Does this mean I have a bad controller or something hooked up wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The batteries are definitely putting out the juice and the throttle is regulating the voltage. I tried hooking up the batteries directly to the motor and besides the big sparks from the wire it seemed like the bike tried to take off. Is the controller somehow backing down the voltage under load?
 

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But who prays for Satan?
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hmmm, the next test I would do, Is an amperage draw, meter in series, with the batteries (not parallel) and watch for a high current draw, an "amp clamp" will probably be needed, most non professional grade multi-meters top out at 10 amps, and some even at 10amp only at 12v well that won't cover us for 12+ amps at 36volts. :p

Maybe swing by an Autozone (I can't believe I just said that) I think they might have one you can "borrow" if you give them a safety deposit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I definitely know the controller is the problem. I put my little brother on the bike and wired a toggle switch directly from the batteries to the motor. After he shot out like a rocket I screamed hit the switch and he grabbed the frame and power wires, the bike caught on fire, and he was wriggling in pain from being shocked like crazy.

So next step is ordering a new controller and rewiring all the power cables that melted off.
 

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I don't think it would be a good idea to use your little brother as a lab rat the next time you decide to test your bike! :D
Oh and I hope everything works out for you. :)
 
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