Pocketbike Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to get the housing off the electric start, want to take it off without destroying it. Down to the windings with the 19mm/12mm nut off, the bolts are out of the housing and it looks like the brushes are keeping the housing from coming off. How do I get the center winding unit off??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,162 Posts
Oh your wanting to take the housing off with the windings right just run that 8mm bolt into the center of the windings with the housing bolts out. Sorry told you how to separate it in your other thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
dont forget to stop the piston though or itl just keep spinnin. mine felt like it wernt goin anywhere so i gave it a little pep talk with an 8oz ball pein and it popped rigght off
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I took it off with the housing on. Went to the store, no bolts with long enough threads so I got 4" of M8 x 1.25 running thread, brought it home & welded a 8mm nut on one end. Put a soft piece in the exh port to stop the piston, came right off. The back of the windings mount has a taper and the crank a taper & a key.
My pull start engine may have a different crank on the pull start side. I looked at that starter paw and it don't look like the crank has a taper behind it. Wanted to leave the housing off and just mount up a pull start without using that long bolt that runs thru the wiring unit. There is 2 pins on the cases and pins on the plastic pull start cover, so don't know if I can do what I want. To make it a pullstart engine without the housing??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
This is the setup on my X2, and i really dont think you can do just a pull start. You gotta hollow out the electric housing.

Not 100% sure though
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,162 Posts
You can do away with the whole electric starter housing and all but you may need to add washers in between the pull start and the cases and or behind the pawl so the pawl catches right or a second aluminum plate that goes between them.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Going to have to pull the paw my Red Head engine and see if the crank on that engine has a tapered shaft. Can't really see behind that paw to see if it has a taper but its thin and has a nut welded on the outside, do not see enough room for a taper on the back of the pull start only paw, which is similar to the elect. start but about 1/4" smaller in dia. The plastic starter housings are similar also.
Don't want to use that housing & stuff, might want use it at a later date. Will figure away to make it work, but have alot of other mods to do, Flywheel and Boosted306 Ported Cyld/Head, intake manifold,etc.
Thanks Guys, its back too Play,lol.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My spare pull cover is for the hand pull engine paw, the electric start paw has no taper, as you know it's bolted to the end of the crank thru that one long bolt w/ the M6 threads at the end. Will steal the paw off the pull start eng and see if it works, then order a new one for my Hot Rod engine which is boxed later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Read somewhere that you can leave the housing like it is. Remove the center windings and if I remember correctly either the brush holder assembly or just the brushes/springs. Buy an additional electric starter center bolt if yours is still attached to the windings. Bolt it back together.

btw, think these are Mitsubishi clones, not Zenoah

Hugh
SDscooters
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, think your right about the Mitsu engine. All the piston ports are similar. I want the housing Gone. There is no taper on my 49cc scooter engine crank, but there is on this electric start I got on eBay. The cylinder on this engine is only 43mm, not 44mm the stroke is 30mm I believe , I put one of my 44mm up to the hole, to big. Need to mod a Paw, put a .230" deep taper on the back side so it fits over the taper alittle cause it sticks out to far bolted to the end.
Going online to look at different paws that might work better, or mod the one I have. Want to keep all the elect. start stuff together in a box and intact, for farther use.
Was going to put Sam's ported head on anyway, and I ground a flat spot on top & modded the piston today, sweet. With no base gasket it misses the top by about .030", perfect fit. Finish sanding and polishing the cylinder and cutting down the flywheel and it's ready for assembly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,162 Posts
you gotta take the middle bit outa the windings and chop it down to make a spacer
Its easier to put the windings into a vise and knock the spline out of the windings than it is to chop it up to make the spacer plus its much lighter too without any of the windings on the spacer. You just need to spray some WD-40 on it and put it in a vise motor side up put a socket about the same size on it and smack it with a hammer a few times. It will pop right out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,162 Posts
You just want to use the pull start you have and its pawl as it matches already. All you need is a short 6mm bolt to bolt it on the crank but may need a washer under the pawl or 4 washers for the pull start to make it work its really simple. EPR the starter winding go on a tapered shaft with a key. Both sides of the crank shaft is tapered. Ive pulled off at least 100 windings off these motors over the years. The only copy of this motor that Ive seen that wasnt is the active 40cc and 50cc which is a Italian copy but very hard to come by anymore. So if you ever see one with a green motor cover grab it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
@EPR,
The 42.5/43mm cylinders are off the newest 49cc epa engines, still no pistons/rings available for them. Intake, exhaust and transfers are all small on them.


@Straydog,
The Active engines also came in yellow, saw one on a leaf blower walking down the street once, just watch for that active logo on the pull start.

Hugh
SDscooters
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was just comparing the heads today, everything you said is true. I was asking myself the same question, where do you get parts. The new ones have 4 bolt intake manifolds and 8mm exhaust studs.
The 44mm manual start piston port in my scooter, has no taper on the pull start side, just threads and a shelf, had 2 flat washers behind it. My electric start does have the taper w/ a key.
I have also been thinking I might need to add some weight on the pull start shaft to balance it from side to side. The other side of the crank has a flywheel and clutch. Just a thought.
I have the pull start thing pretty much worked out, will start on the cyld and Flyw tommorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
EPR,

I see your just beginning to realize the complexities. There are at least 6 manufacturer head variations, 3 bottom ends, 2 crankshafts etc. Believe it or not most parts are available. We expect to see the new cylinders/pistons/rings available within a couple of weeks from at least one importer.
And you guys want to buy parts on Ebay :eek: hehe


Hugh
SDscooters
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for that info, just starting on these piston port engines, seems like the bearing on the Flyw/Clutch side would wear out first,lol.
I buy stuff all over, maybe even from you,lol. Some places have what I need and some don't. You are right on about the different parts and Quality too. What I need is an Alum 4 bolt intake manifold for these engines. I am putting my 2 bolt modded GS 40 alum manifold w/ boost fitting and spacer on a 4 bolt hd/cyld with a Walbro WT-813.
 

Attachments

1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top