Pocketbike Forum banner
1 - 20 of 396 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I just picked up this X1 from a homeowner that was moving and he didn't want to take it with him. When I first got it, it didn't run. But it did turn over. Well, when all this first started (when I first got the bike), I didn't know nothing about these little bikes. But after having it a few weeks, so far I took everything apart. And I mean EVERYTHING. I took the frame, I sand blasted it, then put a coat of powder coating (Black gloss) on the frame, I then followed the same process with the rear forks, but I painted this part Machinery Grey. I didn't have to do anything really to the front forks but degrease the bearings in the front part of the frame (I can't remember what this thing that holds the upper and lower bearings is called) then pack the bearings full with new grease. I then took the axels, front and rear, and cleaned, deburred, polished, then regreased. I got a new wiring harness and wired it all up real nice. I then got into the engine. First, I ordered a 43-49cc Big Bore cylinder head, piston and rings, wrist pin and clips, I got new crank shaft bearings and seals. I ordered a HP carb (not sure what brand it is, I got it from scooterpartsforless.com), it came with the v-stack, HP airfilter and gaskets. I took apart the started and trans and cleaned and added new 80w90 gear oil to the trans. With the started, there were some loose connections so I re-soldered those. I then ordered a new engine case for the 49cc engine, I got a rocket key, and a new coil (I got the coil cuz my old engine was a 43cc and the new engine was going to use the 49cc coil, and with the Big Bore kit I got was going to make it a 52cc engine. So anyways, I also ordered a 19 tooth rear sproket, and a new gasket set for the engine. I also took the forks apart and cleaned the springs, deburred and polished up the metal parts and regreased it all up. I was going to get a HP clutch, but it already had a aluminum clutch in it, and I read that from the gfactory it came with a steel clutch, so thats got me puzzeled. So now, I just about got it all back together but I dont want to get it all the way back together just yet. I'm wondering is there anything else I should do before I get it all back together? I do want to get a fatty exhaust pipe, and a blast box. But is there anything else I should get? And where to get it?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
You might want a boost bottle hooked to the top of your intake manifold. You can drill holes in the clutch arms, & a heavy spring, my red Hot Rod engine has alum arms drilled also. If you got a pumper carb it it is a copy WT-603 16mm Walbro. The best carb for that engine is a Walbro WT-813 w/ accel pump. The red head engine has a real Walbro HDA 19mm purge carb.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
You might want a boost bottle hooked to the top of your intake manifold. You can drill holes in the clutch arms, & a heavy spring, my red Hot Rod engine has alum arms drilled also. If you got a pumper carb it it is a copy WT-603 16mm Walbro. The best carb for that engine is a Walbro WT-813 w/ accel pump. The red head engine has a real Walbro HDA 19mm purge carb.

Im not sure what the make of my carb is, all I know is that I was looking thru a list of parts this store had available for my bike and it said "HP Carb Kit" or something like that. How do I know if I have a accelerator pump? When I was looking for parts, I didn't see any carb's with a option for a accelerator pump. It came with the carb, HP airfilter, velocity stack (at least this is what I think it's called), a spacer and some gaskets. Now before I installed the carb, the holes on the front and the rear of the carb didn't really match up with the intake, and the velocity stack for the front of the carb, so I temp mounted the carb on the intake, traced the offset of the carb on the intake, i then grinded a small taper on the intake, rounded it off then I polished it up, so now when I mount the carb on the intake, it will be a perfect fit, and no bumps or corners. Also the intake didn't meet the cylinder very well so I did the same routine to my cylinder, it had to be opened up more, but I didn't pay attention to how big I was making it. I know I made the intake a bit larger to meet the carb, and I had to make the cylinder opening bigger to meet the intake. I hope this was okay to do?

Also I read somewhere that if I make my fuel line bigger, that would help a bit, so i git new fuel line thats 3/16" I.D. But I read somewhere else that when you buy a HP carb, you no longer need the second smaller clear looking line that gets ran along with the fuel line. But the carb has 2 fittings coming from it, so I'm not real sure which fitting to plug the fuel line into?

In addition, Whats going on with all those mods I keep see'ing everywhere? Like the stock exhaust mod? The porting of my intake? Do you have to worry about the balancing of the clutch and the flywheel when you lighten them? Also, what is this I keep reading about with the removing the head gasket to get more compression? Is this mod worth doing? One more question for you guy's, lol, does anyone know where I can pick up a frame for my X1 thats made of aluminum? Thanks for your help guy's..

Here's a link to the carb I have on my bike. It's not the exact kit I got, but the carb is the same. http://www.partsforscooters.com/Performance_carb_49cc?sc=9&category=425

Here's some pic's of my bike, and a couple of my carb.
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
The carb is a Chinese Walbro WT-603, that's the rebuild kit you need later when you have problems. The lower barb fitting is your gas inlet, the top one is your return line. The carb has a fuel pump inside, unlike the other bikes with gravity feed. Also don't need bigger gas line, that's for a Cag reed port engine. That adapter plate between the manifold and carb should be slotted on one side to line up with the pulse hole on the intake manifold, and the other side so line up w/ the 603 rep, have a couple of them plates. Your gas tank should a hole w/ a rubber grommet that your out and in lines go thru, or a whole new setup is $6.95, with a strainer.
On my Lucky 7 avatar bike you can see my return line going to the gas cap w/ a brake line fitting threaded in. Don't think there is an alum frame for X bikes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yeah, lol, thats just my luck to get a "copy" of a good carb. So is it a decent carb? So does this carb have a accelerator pump? I noticed you didn't call it a accelerator pump when you refered to my carb, you called it a "fuel pump". Also, yes, I did notice the offset on the little plate, and I made sure that the little port lined up. I also drilled out that little hole on the manifold with a 1/8" bit. So was it good that I made sure that all the edges for the velocity stack, the carb, intake, and cylinder head all met up smoothly? Is the stock exhaust mod worth doing? Or is that for another bike?

Here's a pic of the gas tank and the fuel line without the return line hooked up. Should the return line be hooked up? The place I read it said it like this," If you have a HP carb, everyone knows you dont need the little clear return line anymore". So it made me think that I dont need it, but the new carb I got has the 2 fittings. And your saying my fuel line goes to the most bottom fitting, right?
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
I have 3 of the China carbs, never had any trouble w/ them. If you do like I did and get a Walbro WT-813, made for these type engines from dave'smotors, then you have to find an intake and all the other stuff. It has an accell pump like a car, so when you grab the throttle it squirts gas from a small brass tube at the top of the bore.
If you need an alum manifold, ScooterpartsRus has them for $13 and $3 S/H.
Most of us drill the pulse hole and line everything up, every little bit adds horsepower. You can raise the exhaust port and lower the intake port alittle also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have 3 of the China carbs, never had any trouble w/ them. If you do like I did and get a Walbro WT-813, made for these type engines from dave'smotors, then you have to find an intake and all the other stuff. It has an accell pump like a car, so when you grab the throttle it squirts gas from a small brass tube at the top of the bore.
If you need an alum manifold, ScooterpartsRus has them for $13 and $3 S/H.
Most of us drill the pulse hole and line everything up, every little bit adds horsepower. You can raise the exhaust port and lower the intake port alittle also.

Yeah, I think I might get a Walbro WT-813 carb in the near future. My bike already had a aluminum manifold on it. I'm not sure what you mean by raising the exhaust port, and lowering the intake port, but what I did do is I held the intake and spacer with gaskets on my the intake port of the cylinder and temperary attached them to see how well theyy lined up (they didn't line up too well) and I took my Dremel with a grinding bit and grinded out the intake port on the cylinder until it was a perfectly smooth transition. I then drilled out the little hole on the intake and spacer (the little hole below where the air and gas go thru) into the cylinder to make sure it was a perfectly smooth transition too. I then lined up my carb and velocity stack onto the spacer and took the same steps as above to make sure those transitions were smooth also < is this what you mean by lowering the intake port? I did this same thing to the exhaust side of the cylinder, to make sure everything was in perfect alignment. I do know that when I grinded out the intake port and exhaust port I had to remove quite a bit of the port walls to get everything to line up right. Now, I didn't quite understane you when you said
If you do like I did and get a Walbro WT-813, made for these type engines from dave'smotors, then you have to find an intake and all the other stuff.
Are you offering to sell me your Walbro WT-813 carb? Or are you just telling me where you got it from?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
Yeah, I think I might get a Walbro WT-813 carb in the near future. My bike already had a aluminum manifold on it. I'm not sure what you mean by raising the exhaust port, and lowering the intake port, but what I did do is I held the intake and spacer with gaskets on my the intake port of the cylinder and temperary attached them to see how well theyy lined up (they didn't line up too well) and I took my Dremel with a grinding bit and grinded out the intake port on the cylinder until it was a perfectly smooth transition. I then drilled out the little hole on the intake and spacer (the little hole below where the air and gas go thru) into the cylinder to make sure it was a perfectly smooth transition too. I then lined up my carb and velocity stack onto the spacer and took the same steps as above to make sure those transitions were smooth also < is this what you mean by lowering the intake port? I did this same thing to the exhaust side of the cylinder, to make sure everything was in perfect alignment. I do know that when I grinded out the intake port and exhaust port I had to remove quite a bit of the port walls to get everything to line up right. Now, I didn't quite understane you when you said
If you do like I did and get a Walbro WT-813, made for these type engines from dave'smotors, then you have to find an intake and all the other stuff.
Are you offering to sell me your Walbro WT-813 carb? Or are you just telling me where you got it from?



 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
The 813 will bolt to your manifold but the bottom of the pulse hole will be open. There is an adapter plate for $10 the goes between the carb and manifold, and will line the holes up thru a channel.
Shaping the openings of the ports is fine, but the real work is done inside the port. Raise the roof into the cyld .040 to .060", and lower the intake floor down .040 to .060". If you go 60 leave the .025" paper base gasket off and use yamabond to seal the bottom of the cylinder. Cam2 shows how to round the outer ends of the intake and exh ports.
If you drill and tap the top of your intake manifold, tap it to a 1/8" NPT female tapered thread. For $2 at a hardware store get a 5/16" barb brass fitting w/ 1/8" male NPT, that will make your boost fitting, then you need a container about 50cc.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
That 603 rep carb will be fine, if you had a bad carb or stock carb you wanted to replace then you might get a 813. I filled the lower part of that channel that runs down to the pulse hole for the 15mm stock one and made my own gasket that covered it, then mounted the 603 or the 813 and left the channel open up where the pulse hole meets the carb one.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
Yeah as EPR mentioned about the intake...I dont see an adapter and unless you modded the intake by JB welding the bottom of the teardrop shape youre gonna get an airleak and the bike wont start up...............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Well, I thought about JB welding the slotted area in the manifold, but as you can see in the pics, I ended up making another plate. I also notched for the differences between the carb and intake.

I am wanting to mod my piston with putting those little windows in it, like the ported piston. Is it just as easy as cutting out a hole in the front, and back of the piston? Do they have to be in any specific area of the piston? Also, on my crank shaft where my piston rod connects to the crank shaft, I need to take that joint apart, but it looks like that joint is the only thing keeping the crank shaft together? How do I take the crank shaft apart? I need to clean and make that joint a lot smoother cuz right now it feels like its got crap inside it. Thanks so much for you guys help :D
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
They sell adapter plates for $10 online and sometimes they come in a carb kit. As long as it don't leak it will be fine.
Looks you have been busy, modding the cylinder. I like the adaptor.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
Well, I thought about JB welding the slotted area in the manifold, but as you can see in the pics, I ended up making another plate. I also notched for the differences between the carb and intake.

I am wanting to mod my piston with putting those little windows in it, like the ported piston. Is it just as easy as cutting out a hole in the front, and back of the piston? Do they have to be in any specific area of the piston? Also, on my crank shaft where my piston rod connects to the crank shaft, I need to take that joint apart, but it looks like that joint is the only thing keeping the crank shaft together? How do I take the crank shaft apart? I need to clean and make that joint a lot smoother cuz right now it feels like its got crap inside it. Thanks so much for you guys help :D
To me adapters offer another place for leaks to occur.......If I can eliminate that possibility I do it...

Youll need a hydraulic press and heat to get the crank apart................

Dont window the piston like a reeded engine piston unless you plan on retrofitting a reedblock which isnt easy...........

You just drill 4 small holes 2 each side of the transfer port areas of the piston above the piston pin and below the lower ring.......You also reshape the sideskirts with two raised humps at the corners.........

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The piston in that pic you posted looks like you drilled the holes on the side of the piston. From what I gathered from your recent post, I'm supposed to drill 4 small little holes on each side of the piston where the transfer ports are? Is that right? Or does it not matter exactly where I drill the holes, just as long as there just below the lower ring?

Also, you said I'll need some heat, and a press, so that I got, but im wondering how the crank keeps from spining in opposite directions? See, on each side of the sleeve on the crank shaft, you got 2 sides, the fly wheel side, and the starter side. My question is, is the shaft notched? Or does it have some kinda teeth that keep it from going in different directions? Also, is there somewhere around here that has some detailed directions on how to take a crank shaft apart, and getting it back together?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
I really cant beleive no-one knows what transfer ports are.....:eek:..without them the fuel can never reach the combustion chamber from the bottom end..............The holes must be drilled accordingly or theyll never do their job as intended

Theres 3 kinds of ports in a piston ported engine.....Intake port,,exhaust port and two transfer ports.................

On the crank theres just two round pins..the way theyre installed is the pin is shrunken via liquid nitrogen and the crank weights are heated ,,when they come together and return to ambient temps the fit is tighter than normal...its not hard to warp a crank either...............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I really cant beleive no-one knows what transfer ports are.....:eek:..without them the fuel can never reach the combustion chamber from the bottom end..............

Now who's saying they don't know what transfer ports are? I know what they are, just about every gas motor has a intake (the hole in the head that this connects to is the intake transfer port, and the exhaust has a transfer port on the rear or my head, meaning the 49cc ecgine.

Come on CAM2, can you tell me how to get the crank shaft apart and back together? And while your at it, lol, could you tell me exactly where to drill the holes in my piston for it's ports? PPPLLLLEEEZZZZZZZ?
 
1 - 20 of 396 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top