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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im form can lol, im new to the world of pocket bike riding. i got myself a really nice 47cc cag. i bought it off a friend of mine for $40.00 and its under going a complete engine rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
does neone happen to know the size oof bolts used on the stock air filter for a 47cc cag engine i went for a ride today and some how lost the bolts lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
has anyone on here ever used "diesel-kleen" with a 2 or 4 stroke engine?. and i got curiuos knowing seal all wont work under high heats but on a exaughst gasket it sealed air tight? lol i dont get it thats a random first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:)
it wont last long, isint oil resistant either... get a new gasket.
thanks :) i just placed a order for 4 of them. i hada feeling it wouldnt last veery long it was a cheap temp fix till the new ones arrive. they will be here in a week "says to self...hmm 1 week time to finish the engine..maybe a couple small rides hehe."
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
today i was working on another engine. thats going into my next bike and when i removed the cyl head. i found small pieces of gasket and what might possibly be metal filings. and and i now have this odd pinging sound. is it cause of a swuish problem or is it running a little to lean?.

thanks for all the help bob
 

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today i was working on another engine. thats going into my next bike and when i removed the cyl head. i found small pieces of gasket and what might possibly be metal filings. and and i now have this odd pinging sound. is it cause of a swuish problem or is it running a little to lean?.

thanks for all the help bob
2pc or 1pc head? If its a 2pc head you can do a squish test with heavy duty electrical solder thats around .035"...

Had a piston that had a difference of .17" from pinend to pinend...had a couple headcaps that needed reworking in the dome area aswell
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
2pc or 1pc head? If its a 2pc head you can do a squish test with heavy duty electrical solder thats around .035"...

Had a piston that had a difference of .17" from pinend to pinend...had a couple headcaps that needed reworking in the dome area aswell
its a 1pc head on it. and the case gasket it missing along the bottom and the cyl head gasket is missing a small couple pices. and i just finished up a nice wet/dry sand job on the piston and cyl head. looks like new. lol now to get some heavy solider todo a squish test.
:D
thanks bob
 

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Id grab a dremel and adda 3rd port to the stock cylinder then give the piston 5 windows and lighten it from underneath....raise and widen the exhaust port and youll have a serious sleeper thats a serious screamer,,,Do a search for a thread by Jaloos who took a stock engine with a stock barrel and modified it to have some pretty impressive hair raising power according to him and his seat of his pants dyno....LOL





My sleeper,,,Its more modded than anyone can imagine just looking at it..after seeing it perform they dont even want to see the flashier bikes I have run....LOL



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so today i got a dremel bit to make a couple ports. and i also cut 3/4" wide x 1/2" high windows 1 on each side of the piston. and now when the yamabond sets tonight im going to try it out. (p.s. i made them in the style of lines :) )
 

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How many ports did you cut in? 3 ports are optimal for stout power and the longest engine life over 4 and 5 port heads....4-5 port heads are for racing and they dont last very long compared to a 3 port either.

On my 3 port engines I utilize a 5 port windowed piston...Thats 1 extra port and 4 transfer port holes....Not only does it lighten the piston a bit but it also promotes the highest of revs possible because it eliminates the parachute effect on the piston and powerpumps the cylinder full of mix...On the 4-5 port cylinders I utilize 6 windows in the piston........
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How many ports did you cut in? 3 ports are optimal for stout power and the longest engine life over 4 and 5 port heads....4-5 port heads are for racing and they dont last very long compared to a 3 port either.

On my 3 port engines I utilize a 5 port windowed piston...Thats 1 extra port and 4 transfer port holes....Not only does it lighten the piston a bit but it also promotes the highest of revs possible because it eliminates the parachute effect on the piston and powerpumps the cylinder full of mix...On the 4-5 port cylinders I utilize 6 windows in the piston........

i cut 3 ports all together and i put 2 on the side it shows i nthe pic you posted. and then after i ported the exghaust port enough that when i put the pipe to it, it matches up real nice. now i just have to assemble and test.
 

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i cut 3 ports all together and i put 2 on the side it shows i nthe pic you posted. and then after i ported the exghaust port enough that when i put the pipe to it, it matches up real nice. now i just have to assemble and test.
So now you have theoretically a 5 port head ?.....The two stock transfers count as two and what ever you cut in adds to that number

3 port


4port


5port


Raceported bottomend

 

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If you are yamabonding down the head and casehalves you must give the yamabond atleast 24hours of cure time before putting the engine to use.....If you dont wait you will get leaks after 20-25 minutes of runtime
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you are yamabonding down the head and casehalves you must give the yamabond atleast 24hours of cure time before putting the engine to use.....If you dont wait you will get leaks after 20-25 minutes of runtime
ok ill make sure to give it 24hrs of cure time. i took it for a spin prior using stock seals alot more power. now to yamabond everything down and 24 hrs from now ill give it another ride. this time im thinking going out to the race track....lol. :D
 
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