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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Cat Eye pocket bike. This bike originally came with lights, horn, and electric start. All but the controls and starter are gone from my bike. I've looked up some of the parts but my question is. did this bike get a charge from the engine to recharge the battery like a regular motorcycle does or do you have to recharge the battery with an external charger? I've looked at some wiring diagrams that I've found online but I haven't really been able to determine. I'm thinking of putting some lights back on it and just need to know how this thing worked originally.

Thanks for any help you can give.
 

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The big round housing behind the pull rope is a starter/generator, 4 brushes, 2 for the starter motor and two make 13.7volts AC current but the battery is DC so, that big wire off the side should read 13.7 volts AC when running. So the system has a voltage rectifier like Honda to make DC current to charge the battery and run the lights. For less than $10 shipped direct from China, get an LED headlight and tail light about $6, and wire them up way better than stock lights which are illegal anyway, plus they use way less power, stock lights not bright enough for California, need 35watts at 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks again. You sir are a wealth of information!!
 

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They wiring on these bikes, will make you pull your hair out, lol. Online on the .com go to sdscooters find the Tech page button, click it, and find the wiring dia., click on the Cateye one, and copy it. My old laptop died last year all my PB was lost, had to start all over, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I printed out a diagram that was posted on this sight in one of the other threads. One question I have is my bike still has one of the old electrical components. It looks like what the online stores list as a "relay". It looks to me like it could be the voltage regulator but none of the stores list one. It would be helpful if it is the regulator because I should be able to create the rest of the wiring that I need myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yup! That looks like it!! Great! Thank you again for the information.
 

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That other box is probably for your blinkers, which they probably call a relay. Do you have blinkers not sure about Cateye lights system. CAM2 said you can use the old type auto 3 prong blinker box. For my X18, direct from China, I got two LED bright head/fog lights with alum fins on the back, about $7 each, a clone Suzuki red LED tail, looks like an X7 tail light $10, 4 orange LED blinkers on arms, $18 for all, al shipped free, you bolt to the body in a 1/2" hole you drill. My X18 blinkers are on the front fairing and to close, need 12" minimum. Much brighter than the stock X18 lights and they use way less power from the batteries. The stock batteries and charging systems on the 2 and 4 stroke China clones are not very reliable. Then I found out the LEB blinkers don't work with the stock blinkers, so I went back and ordered 2 LED 12v. blinker boxes for about $ 2.50 ea. With LED lights you can get the biggest battery that will fit in your frame box, 6 or 7amp hr. Get a H/F Tools cheap 12v. 1amp charger & and run the lights off the battery, lose the starter housing w/ big heavy magnets which drag the engine down and go Eco use the pull start and adds a lot of weight to slow you down. If you want top speed, got to make More power and throw all the Crap off that slow it down. On my 38 lb. 47cc Cag w/ Boosted306 Canted Head Kit w/ wide 3rd port timed cyld, is one wild ride. I was testing it for him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I pulled the box off my bike today, I think it is the rectifier. With your pictures and diagram the wiring should be easy to figure out. I tested the generator/starter today and it does seem to be putting out around 13 V. Haven't really looked into the lights yet.
 

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How much voltage does it read?? Do you have the voltmeter on AC current?? 13.7v. is brand new, if it reads 12.5 volts or less, its on it way out, & may not last much longer. Brushes wear, the commentator wears and produce less voltage. Best thing to do is get a 6 or $7 H/F Tools 12 volt battery float charger and leave it on when your not riding. It maintains a perfect battery, when the battery hits 12.5 it charges it back to 13.7, 24/7. Them Voltage Rectifiers are as low as $7 online, the same one is used on my bikes.
Have to keep acid batteries charged, running it to low, letting it sit to long without charging and or charging at more than 1.5amps for3 or 4 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think it may have been close to the 12.5. My digital meter wasn't working, I had to use my old one (analog) I did use it on the AC mode as you had suggested. I haven't had a lot of time to work on it. Things are very busy at work and I'm also trying to get some rust fixed on my truck before winter sets in.
 

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My advise is, get it running, then decide how much money you want to spend, lol. 12.5v. is good enough to run your lights and charge the battery. Need a float charger for storage or you will have to charge the battery once a week all winter, and I have 3 bikes with 12v. batteries.
 

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I pulled the box off my bike today, I think it is the rectifier. With your pictures and diagram the wiring should be easy to figure out. I tested the generator/starter today and it does seem to be putting out around 13 V. Haven't really looked into the lights yet.
The lights are pretty simple and its not a 3 prong automotive flasher box its a two prong out of an 80's GM vehicle....

Once you figure out the wiring in the handlebar switch by doing a continuity test the rest is easy...

Heres a simplified wiring diagram i made for blinkers.......






and the brakelight......

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Awesome diagrams!! Thanks again. I'm working on some designs in my head. I think I can make this thing look pretty cool. I think I'm going to fab up a chin spoiler using some diamond plate, figure out the lights I want to use, take it apart, clean the frame and everything, paint it flat black with a gloss accent stripe and make a chain guard. I might redo the battery box as well. The on on it is a little beat up and at the very least needs to be re-welded to the frame. When I get going on this I'll post pictures on a new thread.
 

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Awesome diagrams!! Thanks again. I'm working on some designs in my head. I think I can make this thing look pretty cool. I think I'm going to fab up a chin spoiler using some diamond plate, figure out the lights I want to use, take it apart, clean the frame and everything, paint it flat black with a gloss accent stripe and make a chain guard. I might redo the battery box as well. The on on it is a little beat up and at the very least needs to be re-welded to the frame. When I get going on this I'll post pictures on a new thread.
Sounds like youve got a killer plan that definately needs to be shared,,,,
 

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It's going to be a Cold Cold Winter, this is a re-built, fix-it and re-paint time of year, lol. I work on mine in the kitchen when its really cold, lol, my wife loves it, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Made some progress with the headlights. I got these lights and have fabbed up a bracket to mount them. Think they look pretty good.
 

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Made some progress with the headlights. I got these lights and have fabbed up a bracket to mount them. Think they look pretty good.


Had I saw this post when it was posted it would of saved you a lil time.....

I got Cateye parts in the craziest of places......LOL

They look pretty good though....What are you going to do for a cowl or are you going naked style....?

Are they LED style?You might have to change the name to OwlEyes now.....



 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm going naked style. Think I'm going to weld together a chin spoiler and put it on. Gotta work on the wiring now. Still too cold to paint anything.
 
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