Pocketbike Forum banner
21 - 40 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, question about the voltage regulator. I have the one pictured. The red wire on the upper left, that should go to the starter/alternator on the bike (standard cateye ignore those wires on the right the picture is lifted from another thread where the person wanted to wire a different engine in. I'm only concerned with the leads from the regulator). The lower left is the DC out to my lights and things. The two on the right are both common ground or (-). Is that correct? Oh, and I'm not worried about the speedo wire. I don't have one.
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
Ok, question about the voltage regulator. I have the one pictured. The red wire on the upper left, that should go to the starter/alternator on the bike (standard cateye ignore those wires on the right the picture is lifted from another thread where the person wanted to wire a different engine in. I'm only concerned with the leads from the regulator). The lower left is the DC out to my lights and things. The two on the right are both common ground or (-). Is that correct? Oh, and I'm not worried about the speedo wire. I don't have one.
On the two black wires one opposite of the red wire is the over-voltage dump wire and the other a negative on like the battery....Theyre both negatives but not supposed to be hooked to the same place...The chinese however dont care and does the unimagineable,,,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
so, I could run the bottom right to the negative on the battery and the upper (dump wire) to the chassis. Would that make proper sense?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Cool. Thank you again. I just finished tracing out all the control wires from the handlebars. I have them all figured out and marked. Now I need to get a battery and see if I can get all this working.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,742 Posts
Cool. Thank you again. I just finished tracing out all the control wires from the handlebars. I have them all figured out and marked. Now I need to get a battery and see if I can get all this working.
Youre welcome..

If you have a 12v 10amp battery charger you can test the wiring,,,,you just cant test the starter ....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok, so I have it all hooked up like we described. all the lights work as they are supposed to. But the wire from my alternator to the voltage regulator (hooked up to the top left on the regulator) is all melted. Do I have this hooked up wrong? Everything else is still working fine.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Ok, first of all its a generator and it makes AC current, that's why you have a Voltage Rectifier to change it to DC current to charge your battery and run your lights. My guess its the crappy China wire is old and making a lot of resistance & making heat or the Volt. Rect is bad. Put a voltage meter on the big wire at the housing and then the end of the wire w/ the engine running. Should read 13.7 volts AC, make sure its positive and not negative current. If it reads less than 12.5 volts the armature could be weak or the brushes are to worn or both. If it reads good at the housing connector but not a the Volt Rect. try replacing that wire, maybe 12 or 14 gauge wire and test again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I'll have to check that. Regulator could be bad. It's just the one that was on there with nothing hooked to it when I got the bike. They are cheap so I'll send away for another one.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Yeah, there around $8 or so, it couldn't hurt, lol. Probably not connected cause its bad. I would still check the output voltage on both ends of the big wire before I add the rect. or it might blow the new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
It's reading about 12 volts or so AC at both locations. I had a small wire going from it to the regulator. It may not have been big enough. I get the same reading of about 5 volts DC from the other three connectors on the regulator while the engine is running.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Sounds like your starter/generator brushes and or armature are worn down or bad. There are 4 replaceable brushes, two for the starter motor, 2 for the generator. At 12v. its not working right, the new engine I bought before put out 13.7 volts, they only call it 12v., a new car battery reads 13.7 volts.
Take it off and inspect the armature commentator where the brushes ride and the brushes, if they are worn down and too short it won't work right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Took the voltage regulator off today. Still waiting for the new one to get here. The old one is definitely blown. There is solder coming out of it and the plastic has been heated beyond normal. I've looked up online to double check my connections. I'm finding conflicting information. Some say the AC source (generator) hook to the top left terminal as you have said and the bottom left hooks to the battery positive. With the two right being ground (upper extra voltage dump, lower ground). I've seen some others though same regulator pictured, that revers the two positives, and have the headlight feed off the upper right. I'm hoping the new one will come with some documentation or at least some identifying marks so I can research how it is supposed to hook up. I don't want to blow another one.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
Think there are 2 types of the units, one has the brushed out front, the other behind, also 2 different lengths of center shafts also. Are you the one who posted the 2 hand drawn Cateye wiring?? Electric is not my strong suit, lol. If you found a new wiring diagram can you post it here??
Ok, for every positive wire is a negative wire to complete the circle to the battery or starter curcuit. One positive & neg. to the starter button, and same for the generator with a positive to the volt, rectifier and the rect. should have a ground wire. I just sold a new unit to ScreaminDemon here along with 2 piston port engines like your Cateye. I looked at the 4 brushes, 2 wire were insulated and 2 were grounded if I remember right. There should be a wire off the rect. to a 10amp fuse and then to the battery. Here is what I have.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ok, got the new voltage regulator today. It's from a GY6 50 scooter. Did some checking and found on this one that the connection to the battery is on top left and the input from the generator on the bottom left. The two on the right are ground. I tested this (because of course there are also other explanations on the internet) using my volt meter and it seems to be correct. I'll never know about the old one. It could have come from anywhere as it was the only thing left from the wiring on this bike. The old harness was completely gone.

The generator is putting out over 14 volts when you give the engine a little throttle. So I think it's good.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
That's Great, glad it worked out for you. That's what happens when someone messes with the wiring and don't know what there doing, lol.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
24,145 Posts
You probably broke a clutch spring which will let one or more clutch pads drag on the bell so even at idle the rear wheel will turn. Do, you have a reed port or piston port 49cc engine?? Need to get to the clutch, on a R/P remove the clutch housings so you can see the clutch. You can get hp springs which hold the clutch pads in longer to get more RPMs for take off. Photo of R/P clutch.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Hey my x18 will not shift at all. it idles it revs and everything is good, but when you go from neutral to 1st it just sits there and doesnt do anything, i tightened the clutch put new oil in but still no luck. I have no idea whats going on and i need my bike ASAP So please can someone help me.
 
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
Top