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Vacuum leak broken or cracked Reed peddle carburetor or fuel issue sounds like it's not making any torque
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My old carb had a jubliee clip around the carb rubber Seal and engine manifold where the carb goes into if that makes sense , there is a tear on the rubber can this cause the torque problem ? Also for some reason after revving it up properly it cuts offs and seams like the spark plug is useless once hot
 

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Keystone is in the crank?
Does both arms open at the same time?
What gap do you have between clutch pad and Clutchbell.
Take some sandpaper, roughen the pads and then give a little gas until the clutch starts to slip. Do this 2 - 3 times, now you see how the pads look like they should be evenly smooth over the whole surface. If this is not the case, the pads are not set evenly.
Which carb are you running and what's the setting?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Keystone is in the crank?
Does both arms open at the same time?
What gap do you have between clutch pad and Clutchbell.
Take some sandpaper, roughen the pads and then give a little gas until the clutch starts to slip. Do this 2 - 3 times, now you see how the pads look like they should be evenly smooth over the whole surface. If this is not the case, the pads are not set evenly.
Which carb are you running and what's the setting?
When you say keystone do you mean the woodruff bit is in line ?

Can I do the sandpaper bit without the bell on ?

I don’t know the gap I just know it had know torque when I put it in I have tighten it manually without measurements didn’t make a difference
 

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If your intake manifold is cracked you have a massive vacuum leak it will never run properly like that you're going to need a replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If your intake manifold is cracked you have a massive vacuum leak it will never run properly like that you're going to need a replacement
156801

If your intake manifold is cracked you have a massive vacuum leak it will never run properly like that you're going to need a replacement
156802
So I have marked in yellow where the crack I bought a jubilee clip like the silver one in the picture and tightened it fully I’m assuming this is not good enough for the vacuum leak also if I move the carb around once the bikes started it makes different engine notes may sound silly but just trying to give enough info as I can
 

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When you say keystone do you mean the woodruff bit is in line ?

Can I do the sandpaper bit without the bell on ?

I don’t know the gap I just know it had know torque when I put it in I have tighten it manually without measurements didn’t make a difference
Yes I mean the woodruff bit.

Yes sandpaper without bell.

Measure the gap between bell and clutch, should be maximum 2mm.
How high did you rev. the engine when you tried?
Clutch should engage at about 8000rpm.
It's possible that you tide the springs to much so you have to loos them a bit.
Which BZM clutch do you have, material and springcolor?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
This is the clutch I have

When I have a the bike on the stand it revs out full however the moment I put it to the ground it does not rev high as it does with it on the stand

Will adjust the clutch tommorow again can I use a ruler ? 🤣
 

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That's a China 2 shoe clutch for a Cagllari Daytona definitely not the right clutch
 

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No, unfortunately it doesn't do its job, you can dispose of this scrap immediately. It is not for nothing that a decent coupling costs 90 € and more. There is hardly any coating on it, the springs are too soft after getting warm and the coating hardly provides any grip.
The picture I add is what a good clutch looks like.
The clutch is one of the most important components on these mopeds, they deliver the power to the rear wheel. You can have 20hp with a fucking clutch, none of that gets to the rear wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
No, unfortunately it doesn't do its job, you can dispose of this scrap immediately. It is not for nothing that a decent coupling costs 90 € and more. There is hardly any coating on it, the springs are too soft after getting warm and the coating hardly provides any grip.
The picture I add is what a good clutch looks like.
The clutch is one of the most important components on these mopeds, they deliver the power to the rear wheel. You can have 20hp with a fucking clutch, none of that gets to the rear wheel.
Ok fair enough thanks I can’t see no picture if you can send a link for the correct clutch would be great
 
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