Looking for as much info as possible, Im new.

Pocketbikeparts.com is the best spot to buy good priced parts.
if you want something more expensive try searching pocket bikes unlimited on google.For information just look through all the posts on the forum and peice it all together like a puzzle.I got my first pocket bike in april and i didnt even know how to start the bike,now i know how to take the whole bike apart, replace the broken things and put it all together and start it just by looking at this website on my spare time.And if u need any more help just ask.

Tons of info & help here.

Thanks guys for all of the tips so far. I'm still trying to find a owner's manual on my bike. I have seen pictures of it on this forum but they are not super clear, plus I would like to have one in hand for better reference. Also, when I do get the parts I need, I'm not sure if the green wire from the keyswitch goes between the motor casing and the pull starter. It was there when I took the bike apart. Just making sure. Like I said, I'm new to this.

The small wire that comes off the coil is for a key and or kill switch, it goes thru a switch or key and the other side to ground, and when you push the button it grounds the coil to the frame and the engine stops.

Ok..so the black wire from the key switch goes to the kill switch and the green wire goes between the motor housing and the pull starter? Is this correct? Also the black wire has a wire coming off of the ignition coil?

On a Cag coil should only be one wire, it might branch off into 2 at a connector and one goes to the kill and one goes to the key. Either one can ground the coil, so I leave the key on with my A2, and use the kill button only.

sometimes the bikes will have 2 killswitches too... one on the handle bars and a plug at the rear. I took the one on the handlebars off, and am trying to find somekind of light that the coil would be powerfull enough to run.

Can I by pass the key switch so I don't have to by it? If so, I'm not sure how to wire the ignition coil to the kill switch. I guess the key is a safety thing. So I'm not sure if I should do it. Trying not to spend that much money on this project. And yes, I will post some pics soon

You can remove the keyswitch no problem...theres no real science to a killswitch....

The coil has 1 wire and the coil body is grounded to the engine block....

When the killswitch is pushed or the key is turned off the wire grounds by aid of the device renedering the coil useless by cutting off spark by grounding the coil...

The keyswitch and killswitch are just plugged together and the keyswitch may have an extra ground wire or it maybe will have 1 wire and be grounded through the keyswitch bracket attached to the frame or handlebars...............

Ok, thanks for the response. I do have a few other things I'm looking for. Do you know where I can get ahold of a manual for my bike. I've tried looking everywhere. When I took my bike apart to repaint it, I could not remember how the rear tire went back on. So I believe the chian is not in line. Just want to make sure that the shims, washers and tabs are all in the right spot. I think I have an mta2 cag.

bad1taz said:

Ok, thanks for the response. I do have a few other things I'm looking for. Do you know where I can get ahold of a manual for my bike. I've tried looking everywhere. When I took my bike apart to repaint it, I could not remember how the rear tire went back on. So I believe the chian is not in line. Just want to make sure that the shims, washers and tabs are all in the right spot. I think I have an mta2 cag.

Click to expand...

Theres 3 spacers,,two adjusters,,two washers,,two nuts ,,one axle spacer tube,,two bearings ,,one brake bracket and one axle in that assembly.......

Place one bearing in rim,,then insert axle spacer tube,,install second bearing

Slide axle through the rimhub assembled with bearings and spacer tube..

On the sprocket side from bearing out the order is large spacer,, chain tensioner,,washer nut

On the brake disc side from rinhub bearing out it goes.... thin spacer,,brake caliper bracket,,medium spacer,,chain tensioner,,washer and nut

The chain tensioners go inside the frame sliders and the washers go outside of the frame with the nuts........If you put the tensioners outside with the nuts the spacers will cut into the frame............Good Luck

When you put the thing back together, line the rear gear to the engine pinion by the right size shims on the left side of the wheel and axle. I use 7/16" good grade or SS washers for small movements. Then get your brake caliper on the right side set up over the disc and fill in the rest off spacers you need to thr rear arm.

I chuncked that ****ty keyswitch setup

Thanks again for all of the info. Still need to buy a few parts to get it running, which I'm working on. I may have to take the rear back off and try it again. When I free spin the tire the chain makes a funny sound, almost like it is grinding. Should it make a little bit of sound or none at all? Also, how tight should the chain be. When my bike is on the stand and there is no weight on the swing arm the chain rubs on the chain guard. When I take the bike off the stand it tightens up. Not sure how tight it should be. When I first put the rear back together and I tightened the chain it did not feel like the tire use easy to free spin. Sorry for the long posts and all of the questions

maybe it's the clutch rubbing on the bell.

the chain tightens up even more when you sit on it, so it should be fine.

Chains also get tight and loose spots.

Like I said, I don't know a lot about these bikes but you said maybe the clutch on the bell. Would this matter if my bike does not have different gears to shift into. Like my bike is an automatic and not a manual.

It would only use up your pads faster. to check if this is the problem, take the chain off the front pinion, and see if the bell spins free, or if it is rubbing on one of the pads.

Yeah springs break all the time and one clutch drags on the bell.