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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noob here trying to fix a bike for my 4yo. I have a PR200 I am trying to fix, but apparently I am missing something as I just smoked the motor and melted the small ground from the charging plug to the switch.

I have no power to the motor (ok, 6V). I have replaced the throttle, controller, batteries and charger. Wondering if the brake switch could be causing me issue or maybe even the power switch since it won't light. While I would be willing to replace the motor, would like to figure out electrical issue before I smoke another one. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a pr200, but took it apart to put a gas engine in. Not real good at wiring, but something is shorted out. There is a 30amp car blade fuse near the two 12v batteries hooked to make 24 volts. I have all the electric stuff for it, even the wheels and rear brakes and cables & throttle. The stuff is heavy, probably cost alot to ship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't need the wheels or brakes, but all electrical stuff would probably fit in a large flat rate USPS box. What would you want for it? I picked up a 2-stroke this summer at a yard sale for $60, had to change the carb cause it was gunked up badly but decent deal.
 

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What kind of bike did you get a Cag, w/ reed port engine. I use the Medium USPS box, last time I sent a whole engine it was $11.35 up to 70lbs., so weight is not a problem. All the stuff is like new, it sat for a few years cause my son did not like it, tried to keep the batteries charged, but they gave up, and by then I had 2 gas bikes. Now I have 10,lol.
I will give them to you cheap, there stored in a warm dry place, to busy to get them out now. I might look in the boxes tomorrow, and I will get back to you.
 

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I found my Razor PR200 electrical parts box. Has everything, 250W motor, control box, electric throttle, 30 amp fuse, on button, charger plug in and panels & 24V charger all in like new shape. I cut the wires off the 2 dead batteries, and the fuse box is still there.
You can have it all $50 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for looking EPR. PM me your PayPal address and I will settle up with you.

The other bike has a Cag engine (I believe). It came with a cool aluminum pull start which broke quickly as did it's replacement. Couldn't figure out what the deal was so (could pull it once or twice then only get about 12" before handle would rip out of my hand) I ordered a whole new motor which came with a plastic pull start. While swapping out engines I had an epiphany one the motor was off the bike and upside down on the ground. That cool looking aluminum pull starter that worked fine every time I took it off the bike was what was causing my problems. Turns out that the busted cooling fins on the fly wheel were actually caused by the manufacturer provided screws holding the two parts of the pull start together; they were a little too long and would occasionally catch on a fin. When the motor is running this breaks/damages the fins but when trying to start the thing it rips the pull cord out of your hand. Lesson learned. Now I feel like Homer Simpson, DOH!, for not figuring that out earlier but I have a fully functional spare motor if/when the other one blows up or has issues. Not necessarily a bad thing since the guy I bought it from never figured that one out either so hard to tell what else he did/didn't do to that motor.
 

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If the carb is mounted to the cases, it's a reed port engine, if it has fins all the way down the cylinder is a 49cc 44mm bore, or the 47cc eng. which has a 40mm bore and is 43cc.
If it is ripping the rope out of your hands, or backfiring when you pull it, that's what causes it to happen. I would take the flywheel off and look at the key slot and keyway on the flywheel. If the guy had a rocket key on the crank to advance the timing 10 degress, it's off set and can snap and the flywheel spins to where ever and you lose your timing. There should be 2 dimples 1" from the center of the flyw, that have been drilled and threaded and you run 2, M5 x 0.8 x 50+mm long, or not. Some I have drill and tapped M5 X 0.8, and screw to bolts in on the cases, til it pops off. It's on a tapered shaft, so it hard to get it off sometimes.
 
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