Looking for wire diagram for 49cc cat eye pocket bike
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All the diagrams are that way. One of my X18 diagrams shows a green ground wire from the minus on the battery to the green coil wire and there is no wire and it has some poor guy looking for a green wire that's not there. They show you the positive and negatives but looks nothing like that on your wiring harness, you can't see where the wires are going when there inside the harness. Someone needs to make one the shows the handle bars to the tail light and how the wires look in the harness and where they go & show blow ups of the 6 wire CDI plug w/ live 5 pins and all the other ones like speedo to stator wires, rectifier, connections and plugs and so on.
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EPR,
Not sure what your saying about the X18 wire harness, it does show exactly how to remake a harness with connector wire positions. Including CDI wire positions.
The super pocket bike is a bit more confusing, maybe you can elaborate so I can better communicate the issues.
My favorites are the technical drawings. Still have no idea how to read the switch schematics.
Hugh
SDscooters
Not sure what your saying about the X18 wire harness, it does show exactly how to remake a harness with connector wire positions. Including CDI wire positions.
The super pocket bike is a bit more confusing, maybe you can elaborate so I can better communicate the issues.
My favorites are the technical drawings. Still have no idea how to read the switch schematics.
Hugh
SDscooters
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wow the pics are very helpfulI've had no like finding a manual. This is the best I have found. Hope they help.
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im having a prob where my throttle works the bike starts idles and runs great, until i sit on it and give it gas then it dies, without me on it i can give it gas and the bike will start to take off, anybody have any ideas as to what may be my problem???
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Something needs adjust, H & L jets on the carb. Or the carb is dirty and not giving enough gas to pull rider weight and bike weight. If you have the 15mm w/ the bulb on the bottom the screw with the spring on it on the side of the carb, Is you high jet, turn it all the way in, not tight, then back out 2 turns, see if that helps. Take the spark plug out after it stalls and tell me what color it is, is it wet or dry??
The bike in the photo is a X1 Cateye I think.
The bike in the photo is a X1 Cateye I think.
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Why oh why even try to mess with the crappy chinese wiring..Itll burn ya everytime...It could be a slipped wire,,bad connector,,bad handlebar contact switches,,bad fuse holder,, a bad keyswitch;-even a bad starter or starter solenoid..Rip off all the extra shizzz and roll oldschool...........
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Carburetor needs tuned and or replaced most likely. Or you possibly have a bad coil.
Upload a video with audio of the engine running (you off it of course). Will need steady idle, slowly applying throttle and quick throttle bursts. We should be able to diagnose it from that.
Hugh
SDscooters
Upload a video with audio of the engine running (you off it of course). Will need steady idle, slowly applying throttle and quick throttle bursts. We should be able to diagnose it from that.
Hugh
SDscooters
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if you twisted the wires together at the clutch handle that would be the reason why....on the superbikes the brakelight comes on everytime you use the clutch...if bypassed by being twisted together the light will always be lit............
on the superbikes its best to switch the wires over to the brakehandle switch and pull the brake to start it...........This way the brakelight acts as it should............i just whipped up my own harness and hooked the brakelight to the front brakehandle aswell as the footpedal.......
if the wires arent twisted together then theres a good chance the small microswitch in the clutch perch broke.....good luck
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The switch on the clutch handle is missing the pin, so it's not connected, and I did not tie the wires together. The battery is dead so I kick start it, I replace the rear brake system, and the master has no brake light switch, only the front brake. I have the old switch but did not want to take apart a brand new hydraulic master cylinder. Will look at it when I take the body off the put my 12v 7.5 amphr Gel battery. Will rewire what ever I have to to make it work. Might just put a toggle light switch of my own,lol.
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where did you find those diagrams they look just like my bike and i have the same problem with the wires all messed up.. do you have a rectifier and if so where could i find the right one
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check the fuse and do a continuity test on the fuseholder
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The bulbs are most likely loose bulbs........My bulb holders on my bikes had weak plug-ins that wouldnt grab the bulb good enough.Everytime I hit hardspots in the road or put the frontend down a lil too hard the bulbs stopped working til I eliminated the lights on most and added way better lights to the rest
Look at the flasher diagram...the flasher box goes in the power input line..When load is applied the breaker bow senses this load and breaks the contact,,contact cools and reattaches the juice to the bulbs and when load is exerted the bulbs go out again hence the blinking action...............
The handlebar switch isnt made with brass contacts inside its steel..once the contacts oxidize they dont make contact anymore.....spray a lil wd-40 into the switch and turn it on/off til contact is made..
On my streetlegal X15 I put weatherproof switches from an 84 Honda Spree..........I used the stock switch for other goodies I have on the bike.....Horn button is a booster switch,,,and the highbeam and lowbeam switch is now wired for the hazard flashers
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6200-2rs.........Double check first..The bearing shield has the number laser etched onto it....6200 is for electric bikes....6200-2rs is for highspeed applications..
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