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♠ ŧŋƸ ƀⱥđ &#
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Discussion Starter #1
Been swamped lately between the woman, work, the CBR and the Civic.. CAG has gotten NO attn lately. finally decided to bolt on the dome Sam sent me and get some rididng in.. Few hrs lately had everything together and ready to rip ( also had to fix broken pullchord for the nth time). Went to start and there was a major bind.. ****!! pulled the top and pullstart to spin via flywheel. somthing is bad wrong. I'm thinking its bottom end related...

marcelo
 

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Sounds like you need to rip it down,,,,,,,,,,,What did you do besides the dome and pullstarter...?..Did you disassemble the whole engine?

Did you gap flywheel correctly at .020"
 

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I had to put heavy flywheels on both of Sams 3rd Stage engs. Make them easier to start, and easier on your fingers too.
 

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♠ ŧŋƸ ƀⱥđ &#
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sounds like you need to rip it down,,,,,,,,,,,What did you do besides the dome and pullstarter...?..Did you disassemble the whole engine?

Did you gap flywheel correctly at .020"
I had to put heavy flywheels on both of Sams 3rd Stage engs. Make them easier to start, and easier on your fingers too.
Somthing bad happend when I destroyed the last dome. Def an issue with the bottom end. I've never had the flywheel off, never split the cases. I even spun it by hand with the dome off. There is a 'tight spot' around TDC. Piston will not move easily around TDC, almost feels like there is a little slack in there somewhere.

EPR, like I said. She ran fine efore the 'mishap' even though it coupld be a ***** to crank sometimes lol But NEVER 'sticking' like this. Cyl walls are fine. Piston looks good, even though I didnt completely remove the piston from the cyl.

Stage 3 BBK
IP2
Reed
stock bottom end.
 

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I bet it is the pin bearing, is shot, thats what caused my troubles, your piston could be hitting the dome. Then I did not line up the rear wheel with the pinion gear, 3/16" off. Bike was on the stand it hit around 10,000rpms and the chain came off and ripped the third bearing cover off the housing, glad I was on the other side of the bike.
 

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Hooligan
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Probably a dumb question, but did you try it both with and without the spark plug in it?

If that was a rebuilt motor - that is, you trashed the previous cylinder before putting this one on - you should have torn the engine all the way down before putting the new cylinder on. No telling what little bits and pieces may be down int he bottom of the case. The last time I pulled down a grenaded engine, I had to clean little pieces of the wrist bearings and the rings out of the bottom end and crankshaft bearings before I rebuilt it with a big bore kit. It may take a little more time, but you'll know the inside of the case is clean.
 

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The good news is, they are so easy to take apart and put back together, just ordered bearings and seals for $15 at PB Parts, to fix the twisted sister engine.
 

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PBP RACER
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Probably a dumb question, but did you try it both with and without the spark plug in it?

If that was a rebuilt motor - that is, you trashed the previous cylinder before putting this one on - you should have torn the engine all the way down before putting the new cylinder on. No telling what little bits and pieces may be down int he bottom of the case. The last time I pulled down a grenaded engine, I had to clean little pieces of the wrist bearings and the rings out of the bottom end and crankshaft bearings before I rebuilt it with a big bore kit. It may take a little more time, but you'll know the inside of the case is clean.
That's a very good point. You may have a bottom end full of shrapnel.
 

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There are 4 allen head 5mm bolts holding the cases together, behind the clutches, you do it with the clutches on and turn them to get to the bolt heads. Pop off the flywheel w/ 2 5mm x 0.8 x 60mm on thru the flywheel on the case ribs, if it has threads to remove it. Take out the 4 bolt, pull the case half off the flywheel side. Take the bolt out off the clutch to crank, hold the clutch in your hands, put a small socket in the center of the clutch resting on the crank end, hit it with a hammer a few times till the cases fall off the crank, clutch is off, now get to Work,lol,lol.
 

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♠ ŧŋƸ ƀⱥđ &#
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Discussion Starter #10
I bet it is the pin bearing, is shot, thats what caused my troubles, your piston could be hitting the dome. Then I did not line up the rear wheel with the pinion gear, 3/16" off. Bike was on the stand it hit around 10,000rpms and the chain came off and ripped the third bearing cover off the housing, glad I was on the other side of the bike.
Hopefully its something simple like that. When I take the cases apart I'm going back with a FCC..
Probably a dumb question, but did you try it both with and without the spark plug in it?

If that was a rebuilt motor - that is, you trashed the previous cylinder before putting this one on - you should have torn the engine all the way down before putting the new cylinder on. No telling what little bits and pieces may be down int he bottom of the case. The last time I pulled down a grenaded engine, I had to clean little pieces of the wrist bearings and the rings out of the bottom end and crankshaft bearings before I rebuilt it with a big bore kit. It may take a little more time, but you'll know the inside of the case is clean.
Yeah I tried it. My first thought was piston to plug or piston to dome contact the way it was 'sticking' @ TDC. I even removed the done, and bolted just the cyl with short bolts, and without the dome installed and it was exactly the same BS..

And no catastrophys when it was stock. Ran PERFECTLY and pretty reliable before the install, but as we all know.. stock CAG=painfully S L O O O W.. The B306 kit was BY FAR the bast mod tho. Night and day diff. She went from "nursing mammal" to "hunting animal" ;-D I cant wait to get her back up and running!!

There are 4 allen head 5mm bolts holding the cases together, behind the clutches, you do it with the clutches on and turn them to get to the bolt heads. Pop off the flywheel w/ 2 5mm x 0.8 x 60mm on thru the flywheel on the case ribs, if it has threads to remove it. Take out the 4 bolt, pull the case half off the flywheel side. Take the bolt out off the clutch to crank, hold the clutch in your hands, put a small socket in the center of the clutch resting on the crank end, hit it with a hammer a few times till the cases fall off the crank, clutch is off, now get to Work,lol,lol.
wow, thanks :-D Never had the cases on a CAG apart :thumbsup:
 

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♠ ŧŋƸ ƀⱥđ &#
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Discussion Starter #11
EDIT: ok after re-reading the post, hit me like a couple bricks that when SpyGuy posted..

...If that was a rebuilt motor - that is, you trashed the previous cylinder before putting this one on - you should have torn the engine all the way down before putting the new cylinder on. No telling what little bits and pieces may be down int he bottom of the case. The last time I pulled down a grenaded engine, I had to clean little pieces of the wrist bearings and the rings out of the bottom end and crankshaft bearings before I rebuilt it with a big bore kit. It may take a little more time, but you'll know the inside of the case is clean.
that maybe it was RE:

kingyeddi said:
Somthing bad happend when I destroyed the last dome...
So let me clear that up. Went from stock to the B306, ran for 6 months then one day I DESTORYED the dome when I forgot to tighten the sparkplug.. (Yeah, I know) so Sam being the cool guy he is sent me another one he had lying around.

Now I wouldnt have even considered that one Spyguy:D thanks
 

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You can get a FC crank in 10 or 12mm at hkmotos for $25 to your door, daves had pin bearings for .20 last week I got them and rings and pistons.
 

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♠ ŧŋƸ ƀⱥđ &#
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Discussion Starter #13
You can get a FC crank in 10 or 12mm at hkmotos for $25 to your door, daves had pin bearings for .20 last week I got them and rings and pistons.
Thsts what I'll do then. Seems like a good time to flex that discount HK boss promised me... :-D
 
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