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How-To: Lots Of Info Here For X1, X2, X3 Owners

These are just some tips that I have compiled and would like to pass on.

When you first get your bike, replace the motor mount bolts with either stainless steel or another high grade steel bolt. Use blue loctite on them. DO NOT USE THE RED LOCTITE!!! Check all other bolts to see that they are tight and test the brakes before riding. Give the battery a good initial charge, too.

Start out with a 20:1 or 25:1 mix and work your way up to about 32:1. If you use really good gas and semi-synthetic 2 cycle oil you can even go higher, but it's probably not worth risking the damage to your motor because this is the only lubrication that it gets.

When using the pull start, never yank it to full extension. If you do, it won't last long. Usually 3-4 really slow pulls followed by 1-2 short, fast pulls will get you started cold and 1-2 short, fast pulls when warmed up. Don't forget to close the choke or get it to about 1/8 open when cold starting.

If your bike seems sluggish at first, it's because the cylinder needs to break in and you will need to adjust the carb after the cylinder has had some time to do so. After this the bike will run much better and easily get into the mid 20s, if not faster.

An Impact Screwdriver is a must for working on these bikes. It will save you a lot of stripped phillips heads on the original bolts.

The 43cc and 49cc engine cases are identical except for the bolt holes for the ignition coil. On the 43cc engine case the bolt holes are 2" apart. On the 49cc engine case the bolt holes are 2 7/16" apart. Measurements are from center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole.

The coils are obviously different then. On the 43cc coil, there are 2 spades that the wires attach to. On the 49cc coil there is 1 spade with a wire and the other wire has a ring terminal to go under one of the bolts that hold the coil on. This helps if you have to replace your engine case. You can interchange the cases if you change the coils too. (image1 below)

Since the crankshaft is the same in both engines, your engine size/displacement (43cc/49cc) is determined by your cylinder.

This picture (image2 below) can help you identify whether you have a 43cc or 49cc cylinder. You would need to have your cylinder off or know what it looks like on the bottom. Take a good look at the bottoms of the cylinders.

They both use the same base gasket, exhaust gasket, manifold gasket. The intake manifold and spacer is also the same.

CARB TUNING
First, adjust the slack out of the throttle cable by using the barrel nuts and jamb nuts on each end.

The adjusting screws are on the pullstart side of the bike. The idle screw is the screw with the phillips head. It is to the left and higher than the mixture screw which is slotted and has a spring on it. A good rule of thumb is to see if the bike will start and run without any adjustments. If so, I would ride it through 2-3 full tanks before trying any adjustments, so long as it isn't running too crappy.

Mixture adjustment is usually done by running the mixture screw all the way in and then backing it out 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 full turns. Ride the bike, so that you see how it runs with you as a load. If it is sputtering at high throttle, then you are too rich and need to lean the mixture. Leaning is turning the slotted screw to the right (clockwise), which decreases the fuel to air ratio. If it is bogging at high throttle, then you are too lean and need to turn the mixture screw to the left and richen the mixture a little. These fine adjustments should be done in 1/8 turn increments until you get good and maybe even then.

After getting the mixture adjusted, the idle shouldn't be hard. Turn the phillips screw clockwise to raise idle speed or counterclockwise to lower idle speed. Try to get it just high enough to be smooth, as you do not want it to be so high that it makes the bike want to pull when you have it just sitting or on the kickstand.

ROCKET KEY INSTALLATION
As you are facing the flywheel side of your engine, the rocket key should offset the flywheel to the left (counterclockwise). The arrow on the flywheel should also point in the direction of offset, if that is easier to relate to. Also don't forget to set the gap between the magneto on the flywheel and the coil. If you place a business card between them and then tighten the two bolts holding the coil, that should work fine.

Electric Starter Removal/Installation
First disconnect battery wiring harness and remove the starter wire from the solenoid.
1. Remove manual starter

2. Remove starter pawl (on my bikes it is the round silver/chrome metal piece that you see when you remove the manual starter, on some bikes it may be plastic). You will need to be able to keep the crank from rotating to do this step.

3. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the electric starter to the motor.

4. With the starter pawl removed, you should see a black nut in the center of the windings. This nut has internal threads that I believe are M8x1.25. You will need a hardened bolt that is at least 3" long and threaded all the way up to the head. Thread the bolt through the black nut until it presses the starter off. There is a woodruff key in the crank so make sure it doesn't come out and get lost.

Reinstalling is just a matter of aligning the woodruff key with the groove in the windings and reversing the steps.

Hopefully this helps a lot of you and anyone feel free to post any additional tips/info here. It will probably be more efficient to find lots of info in one place or on one thread.
 

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Re: How-To: Lots Of Info Here For X1, X2, X3 Owners

ROCKET KEY INSTALLATION
As you are facing the flywheel side of your engine, the rocket key should offset the flywheel to the left (counterclockwise). The arrow on the flywheel should also point in the direction of offset, if that is easier to relate to. Also don't forget to set the gap between the magneto on the flywheel and the coil. If you place a business card between them and then tighten the two bolts holding the coil, that should work fine.

Is this little do-dad worth it? I'm interested in it, but I dont want to throw away money and time. Anyones thoughts??
 

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rocket key definately worth it,plus made me my own little dual boost bottle set-up.took a stock x-1 with 5 hrs on it added rocket key,rev-pipe,ported intake,drilled tapped intake for dual boost bottle set-up,bosh superstart plug from home depot for $2.made my boost tubes out of Two co2 canisters from paintball gun drilled tops with 3/16 drill bit,slipped green racing fuel line over the end of the co2 canisters got 2 boost tube fittings from fish store and installed,i also recommend drilling out purge valve hole with 1/8 drill bit what a difference,no lag in the low end and its going 38 mph right now.adding velocity stack with built-in choke,90 degree air filter and a 36 tooth rear sprocket-its the smallest for the 5/16 link chain sets and a 20 for the front this saturday and a cvt trans next week,future plans include hp carb and bigbore kit.
 

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Thats some neat info. Keep it coming, kudos
 

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rocket key definately worth it,plus made me my own little dual boost bottle set-up.took a stock x-1 with 5 hrs on it added rocket key,rev-pipe,ported intake,drilled tapped intake for dual boost bottle set-up,bosh superstart plug from home depot for $2.made my boost tubes out of Two co2 canisters from paintball gun drilled tops with 3/16 drill bit,slipped green racing fuel line over the end of the co2 canisters got 2 boost tube fittings from fish store and installed,i also recommend drilling out purge valve hole with 1/8 drill bit what a difference,no lag in the low end and its going 38 mph right now.adding velocity stack with built-in choke,90 degree air filter and a 36 tooth rear sprocket-its the smallest for the 5/16 link chain sets and a 20 for the front this saturday and a cvt trans next week,future plans include hp carb and bigbore kit.

(i have a stock x2 that i bought for 100 dollars for some retard, it doesnt even idle but i got the thing going 36 mph!! i dont know how it happened it was on flat ground) any ideas?
 

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new here but not to mini bikes. I have a x2 all stock besides the exhaust iam going to ne buying some parts but a lil confused. is the blast box and boost tube the same thing or diffrent. and what mods are the best for the x2 mine goes bout 25-30 on flat ground.
 

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Yes the Blast box and Boost bottle are the same but the Blast box is better cause it is made to the right volume for the motor.

Well the Fatty pipe,a lightened clutch or heavier spring,and a good carb tuning, air filter & V-stack with choke. Should get you headed in the right direction.

Welcome to the site!!!
 

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Thanks what is a good site to order parts from. Is there a govener on x2. I use to have a cag and it was way faster than my x2.
 

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Check the vendors section.
Some X2's did come with a govenor it would be in the throttle housing on the handlebar. take those 2 screws out and have a look. It would be a piece of tubing about 3/8" long acting as a throttle stop.
 

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Sorry to bump up an old thread but What size bolts are the fairing bolts and screws on these? Mine had all the fairings and tank and seat off when I got it and now that it is running I need to find the right size hardware to put it back together. I imagine I can use fasteners of some sort too or should I just use zipties? I'd like to have the right hardware in case I ever sell it.
 

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I heard for the electric start on X2s that there is a safety thing where the starter will only work if the left brake handle is pulled. the thing is that my left brake handle broke a few months back and i stole one from my mountain bike and the starter still wont work
 

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Hi guys! I'm new to the site and to the bikes!
I bought a used X1. Real old one in a bad condition.
Rode it around for a while and max I hit was 25mph.
Figured this thing should be a bit faster.
Wanted to start working on it, starting with the missing windshield.
No website has this In stock. So I'm screwed.
Soo I took all the fairings off the bike.
Decided that I was going to paint the off white greyish color to RED and WHITE or YELLOW.
After taking it off I started to sand it and prime it, I realized that my motor was soo greasy
The exhaust had rust, the frame and all the bolts.
So I took it all out and started cleaning it. I opened the tranny and there was really thick and dirty oil in there I used a degreaser to clean all that out but I don't know what kinda oil needs to go in there and I also need a gasket that I can't find. And on the side of the tranny that connects to the motor there was a different type of oil. I don't know what I should replace that with. I wanted to clean the carbs but the two long screws are too tight. Any ideas on how to get that out. If I do that should I change the carb and the air intake system for better performance. If so which one should I get. Also is the cvt transmission better? And does it fit the X1 ? Does my bike have a governor? Should I put in a fatty exhaust pipe? I saw u guys were taking about boosts and blast boxes and co2 cans. Where do all these things connect to. Can I see a pic. And how is this all done. How much power can I maximize with this bike? I wanna change the sprockets which one are the fastest? Can I put in a 110cc or 125cc in this frame? I wannt to raise the rear of the bike where can I find a bigger spring for the back. I wanna throw in bigger front tire to balance the height how can I and what should I do?
Help me out guyssssss pleaseeeeee!!!?!?!???!!?!?!?! I wana do a lot to this thing I wanna learn. Really into it!!!
 

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i just got an x1 in pretty rough shape.the rear wheel wouldnt spin so i figured the trans was locked up.today at work i split the trans case and removed it from the engine.as it turns out ,the shoes on the clutch were locking up the whole drive line.is this a common issue and were can i find a new one?secondly,whats with this wiring harness.is this gonna be a trial and error deal?
thanks
 

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i just got an x1 in pretty rough shape.the rear wheel wouldnt spin so i figured the trans was locked up.today at work i split the trans case and removed it from the engine.as it turns out ,the shoes on the clutch were locking up the whole drive line.is this a common issue and were can i find a new one?secondly,whats with this wiring harness.is this gonna be a trial and error deal?
thanks

HEY! new to engines/pocketbikes/site/everything here! ....i just bought a full X1 (I believe its an X1 due to all the mechanical parts on it like starter pawl engine type etc) with a second frame and bored out engine...I got a few questions, as I am feeling the pain of the wiring problem! my brother helped me with re-wiring and the only thing we couldnt figure out is what to do with the ignition coil?? as far as I can tell it's a single prong and I've found some info on where the two skinny wires (not the fat one with the plug boot) belong to- one is the kill and the other is the ground? The key start was removed a long time ago so do I still need to have BOTH wired to something? Or where should i send them to?

The only performance stuff is mesh air filter and coilover rear shock...I have yet to ride it due to a homemade wiring harness that wasnt even wired up..had about 25 wire connectors all jumbled together, but we ripped everything out and made it look clean..IS THERE NO TRUE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THIS BIKE???

I really hope someone can help with this ignition coil problem :confused: The local bike shop in taunton, ma kept telling me to throw the whole bike away and buy a brand new one even though I explained to him that I wanted it to start learning about them and that it was a perfect project for me...some people I just don't understand haha...

I'm also a bit confused on the proper way to mix the gas/oil? I have about a half gallon of gas and half a quart of oil..it's an old bike and believe I should be at the 32:1 point but cant figure the proper amount of oil to add to the half gallon....

A couple more small things....
How far open should the carb be in idle? it's currently about an eighth of an inch? I figured I'm gonna have to trial and error this..

Are the tires tubeless? they don't seem like there is air in them, though my buddy who is about 200-something pounds sat on the bike and they didn't really squish down much at all...don't know what the right PSI front/back is?

I have TWO chains..first one is short and goes from engine to a section in frame with a small sprocket..and then a longer/tighter one runs from that to rear tire...is this normal? and can I have it set up with only one chain?

I think that's everything I'm dealing with...SORRY BOUT THE LENGTH OF POST! :p My brother is a mechanic but can only help with so much cause he's never had experience with pocket bikes...only full size quads..

If there is ANYONE who can help with ANY of these problems pleeaaasseee let me know on here or email...
IM DYING TO RIDE THIS THING!! haha

Last thing- Can and should I put the bored out engine on the bike?? Everyone keeps telling me it will be WAAYYYYY better...
 

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got a flat in the back of my 49cc x1 lol i dont wanna jack it all up so whats the best way to change it out? just undo everything or what, any feed back will help!!
 
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