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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Did I say the E3 isnt good?? Sorry if I did, didnt mean it that way. I definitely want to try it, more than an iridium plug. Iridium plugs do well but are meant to last longer than copper, for fewer changes, at least on cars.
Ill check out the E3, I have backup NGK.
Have you run Champion? They are not too bad either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So BAD news today. Was ready to mod the reed stopper and found some pretty good rust on the crank. Need to clean it. If it was very little I would have left it but I saw some residual inside the case.
Unplanned, gonna have to pull the case apart. And I originally, at this point, did not want to replace the crank bearings but since I am there I will order some.
Things never go to plan.
 

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I was talking about what Mr,Pitty said, about NGK being the best plug. Yes and Autolite has good plugs too. I never use an Iridium plugs on a 2 stroke, they foul to easy and I run a hair on the rich side and 40 to 1 for good lubrication. I do have one on my X bike 110cc.
 

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I never said the e3 plugs were bad they are great plugs especially when combined with a performance-orientated high energy ignition system!

the ignition system in The Cagllari Daytona engine is not high energy and not performance orientated and unfortunately the spark follows the path of least resistance which happens to be whichever prong is the closest one to the electrode.

I do see that they have redesigned the spark plugs since I have tried it so hopefully you're out come will be better than my outcome which was a fouled out $7 spark plug.

Like always I wish you the best of luck in your venture and like always let us know how it works out :)
 

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So BAD news today. Was ready to mod the reed stopper and found some pretty good rust on the crank. Need to clean it. If it was very little I would have left it but I saw some residual inside the case.
Unplanned, gonna have to pull the case apart. And I originally, at this point, did not want to replace the crank bearings but since I am there I will order some.
Things never go to plan.
I used to try to polish the stock bearings and use them but now I have seen the light it's best just to throw the stock bearings away or use them as spacers or in a wheelbarrow or something...
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I used to try to polish the stock bearings and use them but now I have seen the light it's best just to throw the stock bearings away or use them as spacers or in a wheelbarrow or something...
LOL. I have definitely use them in spacers. And some more sketchy projects. Ha. Yeah I honestly thought I was just going to run them for now and then replace them later but oh well, got to do what you got to do.
 

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Its a good point, with the coils, I have a few of the new bigger hp orange coils, for the reed port Cag engines. Have not tried one but will soon on my new engine, 49cc gold billet head kit, FC crank and pumper carb, and yes the 3 upper port cyld. Going to try the E3-12 14mm plug in this engine. The piston comes to the top of the cyld and it has great compression. Put the new polini style flywheel w/ the levers and starter housing with cam inside. It will last longer, the E3, cause there are 3 probes for the spark to burnout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well, I am glad I pulled it apart. Look at the rusty dust inside the case. The bearings look clean but I will install new ones anyway.
Pulled the flywheel with a puller.
Gonna be a few days for the new bearings.
 

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Good catch if you had run it that would have been a disaster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ha!!! Yes thank you both. Yes, started on the 100grit and then a metal brush in a drill to finish it off. Got it almost flawless. For me good enough. Waiting on the bearings to come wed. Knocked them out today.
Nice and clean. I dont want to port but I might polish the whole case. Might as well since im here. Bearings are off Amazon by an American company called PGN. Sealed but I will unseal them. Ha.
Just a note to all new people to the sport, this is exactly what happens, never expect a smooth transformation. And you will never be disappointed.
 

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I use a big socket on the center race, and my steel shot dead blow hammer, one wack and there out, lol. Why is the inside of the cases gray, did you do that or.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Nope, kind of rough, but just the color. I thought to polish it up to smooth the path.
 

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These engine cases are lost styrofoam sand casted aluminum they make about 50 for each pour of aluminum they use the same process for the heads and a similar process for the flywheel but it has the magnet and counterbalance chunk of steel embedded
 

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Maybe its some kind of coating to help the flow. Only thing I polish is the piston. Polished cases are a no no now, smooth but ruff is much better cause it won't stick to the cases like polished
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I actually think the picture was just dark. But nonetheless, I did a mild scuff with a drill and pad but wont polish it. I always believed the only thing to not polish was the carb and intake. Everything else was freegame. I will polish the CRAP out of the exhaust port. I also need to modify my exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well I modified the Reed stopper while I'm waiting for the bearings. I think I shaved off more than I wanted to but it is within the measurements I remember reading on a few of the threads here. At this point I'm not going to touch the Reed plate. It's about all I really want to do, it's supposed to be a simple not too much detail to build. Unfortunately I had to open up the case which luckily I'm experienced but cost a lot of time.
 

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