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Discussion Starter #1
Hi i got this mini quad bike the other day. it hardley been used but been sat in the rain for a while. i then brought it

The chain seem to go tight then lose tight then lose (as the wheel goes round)

I changed the rear sprocket to a new one and that made it better. but tock it out for a spin and the chain came out tock it home and its doing the same tight then lose.

what things can i check? could it be the chain? thanks for your help
 

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Sounds like you have binding links in the chain from being frozen and rusted..every pin should pivot freely both directions in every link of the chain.................................

Remove the chain,,wirebrush it,,lube it good with a good penetrant,,loosen the links using heat and use chainlube to keep it from rerusting and rolling smooth........................

If you ride it like that chances are youll ruin the pinion,,experience alot of chain derailing and clutch bearing failure before the chain ever loosens up.................

When you have the chain off make sure the clutch drum spins freely aswell.............

also make sure both eccentric bearing in the axle straps are adjusted the same way and evenly

You can see the frozen links in this chain.............I just replace them with brand new.....I buy 10ft for $20 bucks shipped and make them using my chainbreaker tool........................

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like you have binding links in the chain from being frozen and rusted..every pin should pivot freely both directions in every link of the chain.................................

Remove the chain,,wirebrush it,,lube it good with a good penetrant,,loosen the links using heat and use chainlube to keep it from rerusting and rolling smooth........................

If you ride it like that chances are youll ruin the pinion,,experience alot of chain derailing and clutch bearing failure before the chain ever loosens up.................

When you have the chain off make sure the clutch drum spins freely aswell.............

also make sure both eccentric bearing in the axle straps are adjusted the same way and evenly

You can see the frozen links in this chain.............I just replace them with brand new.....I buy 10ft for $20 bucks shipped and make them using my chainbreaker tool........................
WoW you can really see it when you take the chain off like that...

"also make sure both eccentric bearing in the axle straps are adjusted the same way and evenly"

What is the best way to do this???


I never thort of buying chain that long and making my own thats also a good idea. thanks for your fast reply


pics of my clutch




Is this a new clutch thats not worn in yet?
 

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WoW you can really see it when you take the chain off like that...

"also make sure both eccentric bearing in the axle straps are adjusted the same way and evenly"

What is the best way to do this???


I never thort of buying chain that long and making my own thats also a good idea. thanks for your fast reply


pics of my clutch


Is this a new clutch thats not worn in yet?
You need to mod that clutch...............its throwing out very unevenly like its binding or overly stiff........

Remove the springs

Remove the clutchpad bolts

Take the shoulder bolts;- de-rust them and add a small thin film of anti-seize compound on them

Take 150 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and sand flat the mating surfaces at the mount til theyre even and smooth......I go one step further and take out the dremel and polish the mating surface,,shoulder bolt holes and spring pins/holes for smooth fast action....You can see some excess copper based anti-seize I wiped up before installing...The finished chinese products are still too raw for performance aswell as quality

Make sure to deglaze the pads and rough up the drum with 100grit sandpaper before reassembly



I also lighten the clutchpads to raise the lockup rpms and reduce spring fatigue/waer





PS...I do this to all brand new clutches aswell......................

 

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Discussion Starter #5
WoW your a real help to me!!! i just thort it was a new clutch wareing in !!!

With the chain i think im better of buying a new one.

you got any other tips / advice for me??
 

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Nope, I'm sure thats all, It's not like Cam has modded one of everything or anything like that.

DuDe, You better be taking notes asking Cam a question like that... :D:thumbsup:

You are gonna need a notebook and be able to write REALLY fast!!!
 

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When you look at the adjustable eccentric bearings make sure the offset part is raised instead of lowered.....The chain will tighten better that way

 

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WoW your a real help to me!!! i just thort it was a new clutch wareing in !!!

With the chain i think im better of buying a new one.

you got any other tips / advice for me??
Upgrading the fuellines/fuelfilter to 1/4"

doing the petcock mod

porting the stock carb to 14mm's and rejetting it

hp airfilter w/ v-stack

swapping in a hp sparkwire

NGK sparkplug gapped to .030"

sparkplug indexed for maximum power

lightened 12 fin flywheel

rocket key

composite reeds

reed stopper mod

stock exhaust mod

better than modding the stock carb is getting a hp pumper carb retrofit kit........Them walbros kick azz on the reeded engines too.............

Losing the basegasket to bump compression and then porting the exhaust port to deliver max power aswell as dremel in a 3rd port with windowed piston......................Check out jaloos' and Mexicano's thread that will be your guides for building power.....................One layman and one a bit more technical..............

Then theres raceporting the lowerend and headskirt to add the cherry on the sundae

Good luck.............
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Upgrading the fuellines/fuelfilter to 1/4"

doing the petcock mod

porting the stock carb to 14mm's and rejetting it

hp airfilter w/ v-stack

swapping in a hp sparkwire

NGK sparkplug gapped to .030"

sparkplug indexed for maximum power

lightened 12 fin flywheel

rocket key

composite reeds

reed stopper mod

stock exhaust mod

better than modding the stock carb is getting a hp pumper carb retrofit kit........Them walbros kick azz on the reeded engines too.............

Losing the basegasket to bump compression and then porting the exhaust port to deliver max power aswell as dremel in a 3rd port with windowed piston......................Check out jaloos' and Mexicano's thread that will be your guides for building power.....................One layman and one a bit more technical..............

Then theres raceporting the lowerend and headskirt to add the cherry on the sundae

Good luck.............
Thanks man some good advice there!! iv come from a dirt bike mini moto so already got some of the mods just need swaping over.

As for the chain adjusters mine are diffrent. i will get a pic for you soon.

Also witch engine would you go for

40.21cc or 48.66cc

Thanks again really is going onboard
 

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Thanks man some good advice there!! iv come from a dirt bike mini moto so already got some of the mods just need swaping over.

As for the chain adjusters mine are diffrent. i will get a pic for you soon.

Also witch engine would you go for

40.21cc or 48.66cc

Thanks again really is going onboard
I mostly go for bigger displacement because Im into topend and really low ratio gearing but sometimes a smaller high revving engine is better for the taller ratio gearing needed to go offroad and still maintain descent maximum groundspeed of 25-26 mph after mods......

I have a 40mm 3 port 15:1 engine that has more topend stout than a 44mm 5 port engine I also have and both have the same 7/60 gearing................
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey thanks again sorry for the delay. been doing some searching on the mods.

i cant seem to find any decent info on the reed stop mod??? other wise im pretty good to go :D thanks
 
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