)
blue 5pin cdi
Super coil
Ngk plug or ngk iridium plug
Foam air filter (remove and discard snorkel tube it restricts air flow
Head breather you can make o e by drilling and tapping cam cover on top and using a brass nipple from any local parts store
Or buy one online
If you have a plastic tank drill out the fuel outlet bigger to flow more
If you have a metal tank get a 90 deg shallow fitting low profile to replace the nipple and help with fuel line routing
Use 1/4 fuel line I prefer the black even tho you can't see the flow cuz with the clear it seems to harden quickly on me and can't get it to seal again if I take it off maybe I'm using the wrong line or maybe its the methanol or ethanol there using in the fuels up here???
22mm Mikuni carb or equivalent with a 110cc motor
Port/polish the intake manifold and head
Remove the restrictive weld inside the head pipe
Do cams debur job on the clutch lever on the motor for smoother clutch with no hang-ups
Drill frame and motor to accept 3/8 grd 8 hardware use loctite and lockwashers to prevent motor movement as well
CHASSIS
X15/19 the rear swingarm is very weak you should at least box in the channels on the inside and use a grade 8 5/16 or larger bolt for the adjustments and weld the nut inside the arm before boxing it in also better adjuster blocks will help with movement
And i use a coat hangar with a small ziptie attached that can slide on the hanger but takes force to move and drilled a small recess into the pivot bolt on both sides so the small curved end of the hangar fits in there and move the ziptie to the center of the axle bolt on one side then compare to the other to see if your rear tire alignment is correct
Rear shock sucks find a replacement or fab up a bracket to use a common shock size cuz other wise any bumps over 25mph cause the rear end to jump around like a car with a blown strut also it will make your tire wear in a chopped pattern not good when you try to lean into a corner
Also i have seen and had trouble with the top shock mount tearing off the frame so a couple small reinforced welds and prices should help with that i am working on that one with my x15 race bike currently
Rear sprockets range from 22-44t I'm not sure how the 33 will be i do have 17/28 currently and its good so far i do want to try the 33 as well as a 15 front
Other than that it's all just accessories like a vapor or billet throttle ECT ECT
Oh and don't forget tires best ride improvement of all
130/70/10 rear 90/90/10 front works good for me street wise so far
I'm using the kendas right now for street and are very comfy but right after my legs scrape i get that unsettling feeling from the rear on hard corners so not the best by far for track use
Hope this helps a bit for ya
Super coil
Ngk plug or ngk iridium plug
Foam air filter (remove and discard snorkel tube it restricts air flow
Head breather you can make o e by drilling and tapping cam cover on top and using a brass nipple from any local parts store
Or buy one online
If you have a plastic tank drill out the fuel outlet bigger to flow more
If you have a metal tank get a 90 deg shallow fitting low profile to replace the nipple and help with fuel line routing
Use 1/4 fuel line I prefer the black even tho you can't see the flow cuz with the clear it seems to harden quickly on me and can't get it to seal again if I take it off maybe I'm using the wrong line or maybe its the methanol or ethanol there using in the fuels up here???
22mm Mikuni carb or equivalent with a 110cc motor
Port/polish the intake manifold and head
Remove the restrictive weld inside the head pipe
Do cams debur job on the clutch lever on the motor for smoother clutch with no hang-ups
Drill frame and motor to accept 3/8 grd 8 hardware use loctite and lockwashers to prevent motor movement as well
CHASSIS
X15/19 the rear swingarm is very weak you should at least box in the channels on the inside and use a grade 8 5/16 or larger bolt for the adjustments and weld the nut inside the arm before boxing it in also better adjuster blocks will help with movement
And i use a coat hangar with a small ziptie attached that can slide on the hanger but takes force to move and drilled a small recess into the pivot bolt on both sides so the small curved end of the hangar fits in there and move the ziptie to the center of the axle bolt on one side then compare to the other to see if your rear tire alignment is correct
Rear shock sucks find a replacement or fab up a bracket to use a common shock size cuz other wise any bumps over 25mph cause the rear end to jump around like a car with a blown strut also it will make your tire wear in a chopped pattern not good when you try to lean into a corner
Also i have seen and had trouble with the top shock mount tearing off the frame so a couple small reinforced welds and prices should help with that i am working on that one with my x15 race bike currently
Rear sprockets range from 22-44t I'm not sure how the 33 will be i do have 17/28 currently and its good so far i do want to try the 33 as well as a 15 front
Other than that it's all just accessories like a vapor or billet throttle ECT ECT
Oh and don't forget tires best ride improvement of all
130/70/10 rear 90/90/10 front works good for me street wise so far
I'm using the kendas right now for street and are very comfy but right after my legs scrape i get that unsettling feeling from the rear on hard corners so not the best by far for track use
Hope this helps a bit for ya
