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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to share my half-fairing cag, it's nothing crazy just my cruiser bike with a few show and few go parts.

I picked this up as just a frame with plastics and the stock pipe for $40. Can usually get a complete bike for that price with cases to modify but the frame looked to be one of the better constructed ones and kinda wanted the half-fairings.

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I had a spare engine case so bought a "Big bore Kit" from eBay. I softened the ramp on the cases and smoothed out the base of the cylinder head with the cases. I did the basic corrections to the BBK by smoothing out casting marks, lightly polishing the wrist pin, crank, and piston. I'm not posting those pictures because my work there is not the best, it is not an example to lead by lol.
I left the exhaust port alone and smoothed out the top of the cylinder head to make a good seal with the cap. I lightened the flywheel to 12 fins and did the spark plug mod to the coil. I have a rocket key but did not use it and the ran the factory timing.

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I love me my pumper carbs because they are so easy but I am too cheap for a real Walbro so 15mm knock-off pumper with manifold and intake it is. The clutch was lightened, HP springs were added, and I drilled 4 more holes in the clutch drum for cooling


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Nice gen1 CAG it's going to rip they have a lot less flex than the newer models
 

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What's your poison? Mine is 40:1
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Damn, nice set up. That will have enough power more than stock can be fun, you can always do more to it later.
Did you run SKF bearings?
 

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Razor mx500 (mildly modded)
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I dig it! I had one with your style frame set up and another with the rear suspension and enjoyed them both, the green one was clapped out but the blue one was pretty sweet, the frame was powdercoated blue and the forks and swing arm black and I hooked up some LED headlight and taillight to it
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What's your poison? Mine is 40:1
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Yes sir, sure did I put SKF bearings in the crank and in both wheels
Nice. That's the way to go. I've had some really nice Chinese bearings, very smooth feeling but when you spin those and then you spin a nice SKF, no comparison. The SKF will spin two to three times longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wellllll it didn't take long for me to mess with it again lol. I can't weld so modifying the stock pipe has always been a set back for me.
I bought this pipe from a member on here with a few other goodies
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I got to installing the pipe right away and I like the sound. Sounds like a nice pingy chain saw at idle.
It does quite line up right though. The muffler bracket by the tip doesn't line up with the frame and the tip is crooked out of the back. Not a big deal however to get the head pipe and muffler to fully seat without any tension on it The upper motor mount nut had to be removed. The nut just kicks the pipe over enough to create tension on the head pipe and muffler. You can see a small gap form on 1 side.

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I don't have enough time on it to check the plug (only about 30 min) but I noticed the pipe kicks off a lot of heat. My bum gets pretty warm when riding it.

I forgot to mention I have a FCC crank in there. This motor seems to rev up pretty quick too. I feel like it zips right through the low and mid range. I might put a heavy duty steel clutch in it. In my MTA2 I just sold had that had a full weight flywheel and I feel like it hit harder off the line and in the low-end, what do you think?
 

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What's your poison? Mine is 40:1
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Looking good. Its possible. I have read that with a FCC a full weight flywheel is needed. A balanced clutch and HD springs.
I also remember reading about a couple members who used tin foil and fiberglass underneath their seats, molded into the seat. Can't remember the thread or names but just remember reading that. In the car world there is the heat mats that go underneath the exhaust on cars. Very difficult find but that's an option
 

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With the poop pipe you need a heat shield under the seat you can get heat shield material from any real motorcycle shop.

You will notice that if you strap that frame down and use a builder square that the frame is not built straight all of those pipes will sit at a weird angle and really close to the seat in that frame since the pipe was actually designed to be in a Lucky 7 frame that is a little bit taller I personally wouldn't worry about it.

The FCC crank is dramatically off balance I'm not going to get into it here since there are hundreds of threads already started on the subject basically put your stock crank back in and your top end power will come back.
 
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