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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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So, Because RychRacer showed up to the track with a fast cag and there is talk of the CAG superstars (Cam & EPR) coming out someday I've decided to get a Lucky 7 ready for battle... Found one with an extra engine and random parts for 100 bones... A little more than my last Lucky 7 but wanted one in my hands so I swooped it up...

So the plans will be, Ported Piston and Cylinder, 15:1 compression Dome, Full Circle Crank, Rocket key, Blueprinted Bottom end, Nice Pipe & polini clutch.. Thinking of using the Polini full circle crank on it but the reach will require a spacer. Any thoughts on this? Is it worth chopping an old cylinder for the spacer or will all the ports be off?

I ordered the ADA 47cc cylinder kit, I know I'll use the head but might port out the cylinder and piston myself.. Just so I can say I did it. lol I also have 5 CAG engines sitting around and its time to get a few sounding good.. I got 3 gasket sets coming so I can get a few going... Oh I hope I find time for all my projects................
 

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So, Because RychRacer showed up to the track with a fast cag and there is talk of the CAG superstars (Cam & EPR) coming out someday I've decided to get a Lucky 7 ready for battle... Found one with an extra engine and random parts for 100 bones... A little more than my last Lucky 7 but wanted one in my hands so I swooped it up...

So the plans will be, Ported Piston and Cylinder, 15:1 compression Dome, Full Circle Crank, Rocket key, Blueprinted Bottom end, Nice Pipe & polini clutch.. Thinking of using the Polini full circle crank on it but the reach will require a spacer. Any thoughts on this? Is it worth chopping an old cylinder for the spacer or will all the ports be off?

I ordered the ADA 47cc cylinder kit, I know I'll use the head but might port out the cylinder and piston myself.. Just so I can say I did it. lol I also have 5 CAG engines sitting around and its time to get a few sounding good.. I got 3 gasket sets coming so I can get a few going... Oh I hope I find time for all my projects................
If it is a 44mm piston it can be made like my Black Magic cag........




If thats the ADA 15:1 40mm kit.Look in the pic how thick the sealing washer is..I hope the picture is just wrong..Boy lemme tell ya the 40mm Alky headkit on my Evil Wasp cag except I gave it some more agressive porting ,,extra boost port aswell as some blueprinting........The thing is named very well........

As far as using the polini crank thats gonna be a lil harder..Im pretty sure the polini cases are a tad wider.....

All you need is an ADA full circle 31mm stroke crank...Its pricey but offers 1mm more stroke than the 30mm it is...

The other way to build a stroker is with an offset pin but that requires a machine shop to do the work...........

Building the engine properly by blueprinting without removing too much material,,adding a full circle crank will make a huge difference aswell even without stroking the engine,.....You just gotta run a tight squish of around .024" and run the engine on 110 high octane race gas..........The smaller piston will rev to the moon............
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya thats the ADA kit.. You think they would send a bunk washer.. lol :)

What do you use when you chop your own heads? Hell I'll just use Yamabond... lol....... I'll probably buck up and just get the ada crank.. Just blowing my wad real quick.. Shoulda got that and did my own Head.. I'll keep you all posted on the progress..

Cheers!
 

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Ya thats the ADA kit.. You think they would send a bunk washer.. lol :)

What do you use when you chop your own heads? Hell I'll just use Yamabond... lol....... I'll probably buck up and just get the ada crank.. Just blowing my wad real quick.. Shoulda got that and did my own Head.. I'll keep you all posted on the progress..

Cheers!
To chop the cylinder and do it sucessfully takes quite a skill,,not saying you have no skills but the thing is you have to chop the cylinder and then you have to get the lip perfectly flat 360 degrees around because if your off even a slight bit it only takes 15-20 minutes before it becomes a leak.....



By the time you pay a machine shop to machine the lip flat enough that may throw off the squish calculation quickly you could of gotten a headkit and refined it..Proper planning is one key to being sucessful,,,chopping it close to the right height leaving enough for trueing up the lip with an oil stone.....

The chinese copper rings arent soft enough to seal good enough...I recommend finding a .025" thick soft aluminum sealing ring........So far my aluminum rings are surpassing the copper hands down......Only thing that sux is once theyre squished and compressed they cannot be re-used.......

With the power comes the need for control...stretching the lucky7 2-3" will help alot.........

 

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Dude, way to go, all the parts are worth 100 dollars. Thats the same kit that is my Z1 engine, for the Z1 piston, but now have a 40mm one ring Husqvarna 10mm pin flat top piston going on a 10mm stock crank. the ring split pin is way off to the side so that means a 9/16" wide third port. So, I need a new name, V1 sounds good,lol. The rod is to wide, will have to widen the inside of the piston and narrow the rod bearing a hair to make it work.
On the F1 billet case engine, I got a 44mm one ring, 10mm pin, Husqvarna flat top piston with pin in the middle so it will take a 4 port cyld, going to take some Magic, grinding the compression piece and top edge of piston to clear the top,lol. Got to finish sleeving the Dell PHBG rep rear bore from 19mm to 17mm, that's what I am running first on that engine.
I am working on the Lucky7 alum rear frame lift & rear arms moved back 4", will post photos of the ruff cut I started. You 3M poster tape 2 pieces of 1/4" alum together and make both pieces at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To chop the cylinder and do it sucessfully takes quite a skill,,not saying you have no skills but the thing is you have to chop the cylinder and then you have to get the lip perfectly flat 360 degrees around because if your off even a slight bit it only takes 15-20 minutes before it becomes a leak.....


By the time you pay a machine shop to machine the lip flat enough that may throw off the squish calculation quickly you could of gotten a headkit and refined it..Proper planning is one key to being sucessful,,,chopping it close to the right height leaving enough for trueing up the lip with an oil stone.....

The chinese copper rings arent soft enough to seal good enough...I recommend finding a .025" thick soft aluminum sealing ring........So far my aluminum rings are surpassing the copper hands down......Only thing that sux is once theyre squished and compressed they cannot be re-used.......

With the power comes the need for control...stretching the lucky7 2-3" will help alot.........
Lol, ya, I'll most likley get the ADA crank.. I dont wanna go that far... Do you have spot where you buy those aluminum rings or another E-bay find... lol (on the search now)..

Conrtol?! lol whats that? j/k I am now wishing I never sold the Lucky 7 that had that ada rear swing arm extender on it... Oh well.. I needed money at the time badly and it helped me out.. Doh, it had a Jet pro on it too... marcelo


Dude, way to go, all the parts are worth 100 dollars. Thats the same kit that is my Z1 engine, for the Z1 piston, but now have a 40mm one ring Husqvarna 10mm pin flat top piston going on a 10mm stock crank. the ring split pin is way off to the side so that means a 9/16" wide third port. So, I need a new name, V1 sounds good,lol. The rod is to wide, will have to widen the inside of the piston and narrow the rod bearing a hair to make it work.
On the F1 billet case engine, I got a 44mm one ring, 10mm pin, Husqvarna flat top piston with pin in the middle so it will take a 4 port cyld, going to take some Magic, grinding the compression piece and top edge of piston to clear the top,lol. Got to finish sleeving the Dell PHBG rep rear bore from 19mm to 17mm, that's what I am running first on that engine.
I am working on the Lucky7 alum rear frame lift & rear arms moved back 4", will post photos of the ruff cut I started. You 3M poster tape 2 pieces of 1/4" alum together and make both pieces at once.
The Z1 Coming alog good then? What did you do about that upper ring EPR did you use or gonna use the stock one?? And where again did u get that nice(r) chinese fatty pipe? Would it fit on a Lucky 7 frame? lol So you got the billet case in your hands?? Sorry been absent.. lol
 

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The Z1 which might be the V1 if I use the 40mm Husqvarna one ring piston. The pistons all came with one ring. My Cag stock 40mm, the Z1 40mm and the Husqv. 40mm pistons all weigh 48g, I'm going No Way. Can't make anything work yet. The Husqv. has .040" of cyld left at TDC and I am not cutting that cyld down,lol. The Z1 piston is .150" to high but has a 12mm pin that would work on the 12mm lightened crank or the 12mm FC crank. The Husqv. is 10mm and the stock Cag piston is just right,lol. Not sure what to do. I have a 10mm & 12mm stock cranks and 10 & 12mm FC cranks.
The F1 is more important to me. The 44mm one ring Husqvarna has a 10mm pin, so I will try my 10mm FC crank in the billet cases. The ring pin is right in the center, so need one of my 4 port 44mm Cag B/B cyld. Until I can put the FC crank in the cases and put the piston on the rod with the cyld over it, don't know what the Squish is. I have a .040" milled height 44mm cyld I can use if the piston is too low, and can add .010" - .040" under the cylinder to raise it if needed.
 

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PBP SENIOR M!LKER
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lol, well make it happen already EPR... lol, JK.. Sounds like you have decisionsto make.. ;)

I got my head kit but they forgot the Piston and rings.. Honest mistake and they already sent me the missing stuff.. My Gasket sets also cam in... Almost time for me to get going on some stuff... Still going to need a muffler and some other goodies... That will have to wait.. About broke again.. lol

Hey Cam is this the 31mm ADA Crank you were speaking of? http://www.adaracing.com/all/rc-stroker-crank-long-rod-crankshaft-3mm-5mm/11-223100 Says its for a 36mm bore and says for RC but I couldnt find any that say for a PB...
 

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Lol, well make it happen already EPR... lol, JK.. Sounds like you have decisionsto make.. ;)

I got my head kit but they forgot the Piston and rings.. Honest mistake and they already sent me the missing stuff.. My Gasket sets also cam in... Almost time for me to get going on some stuff... Still going to need a muffler and some other goodies... That will have to wait.. About broke again.. lol

Hey Cam is this the 31mm ADA Crank you were speaking of? http://www.adaracing.com/all/rc-stroker-crank-long-rod-crankshaft-3mm-5mm/11-223100 Says its for a 36mm bore and says for RC but I couldnt find any that say for a PB...
Thats where you have to think out of the box and exactly why Im the first person I know to have piston ported engines with full circle cranks..........Cag rods are 30mm's...That ones 31mm's..........

If you contact ADA Im sure youll find that the crank end to end,,bearing journal size aswell as counterweight width are exactly what you need to do the retrofit...........
 

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Wow, nice crank, think the part where the main bearings rest is to small for a Cag engine. If you could get bearings and seals that fit the Cag on the OD and that crank on the ID side you could probably make it work. Would not hurt to ask ADA, they have always answered my Questions and most of the time it's No,lol. Be nice if they showed some measurements on the bearing shafts and & the rod bearing size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll hit em up to double check... I got some time.. I cant afford it right now... I did get the Piston and stuff from ADA. Honest mistake and they were quick about getting this one out.. I also got my Polini Reverse water pump Kit and gasket set.. So I can start putting that back together also.. I'll still need a head for it but at least I can get going on it.. Oh snap.. I also got my AN 266 atomizer and nozzle.. Gonna swap them into the BZM tonight! Its on like Donkey Kong!!
 

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If that 31mm ADA crank will fit in a Cag case lengthwise, the end bearings don't matter. Get a bearing the fits a smaller shaft and where the OD is 35mm like the cases. Say a 12mm ID and 35mm OD open bearing. It would work great on a stock one piece head where the Squish is 1.5mm, which would now be, .50mm Squish.
Been working on the Cag billet cases, need to dremel a better path over the main bearings, which is razor sharp. Have 2 cylds., 4 port, both very modded, if you have seen my new thread Billet Cases Cag engine, you can see more. One cylinder I got Crazy, on my first one and went .036" to low, and a regular height one. Think the one ring piston 44mm Husqvarna will be about that short in the cyld. Won't know for sure till I put the main bearings in the cases. When I am done dremeling, I can tell which one, either one needs alot of mods to fit the billet cases. There Sick. For $134 US, includes shipping & insurance. It comes with a Polini 17/19mm Dell SHA or PHBG or PHVA, and V-reed block w/ 2 wide open FG reeds. Just the Int. & reed block is $40. I got .025" Polini CF reeds, for it and he gave me a Polini Cag split reeds as a gift. Dr. Menzel, I call driver D now. The Dude knows his Stuff.
Anyway the plan is to show up later this year when you guys are there at the track. Want to bring the billet engine with the 19/17mm sleeved Dell copy PHBG, if that don't work my spare Walbro WT813, in my A2 Cag, but you can't see the engine,lol. It's has new China ultra soft tires, as does the C1. The C1 will show up w/ more case mods, Which include SKF C3 main bearings & water pump bearings and Viton red seal, the SS copy race pipe and a Walbro 19mm HDA223B purge carb w/ purge and boost fitting in the top of the manifold. Them Euro riders are going to Crap in there pants when they see these 2 bikes,lol,lol.
When they see me with my feet in the rear axle 10 speed clips laying down on the bike, they will be running to the ten speed to get there's,lol.
The bike handles much better that. My hope is I can out handle them in the corners and they won't catch me till the next corner where I am faster, that would really smoke them,lol.
 

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Well, my Cag 10mm FC crank is 98.5mm acrossed and 15mm Js. So, a cag is 1mm longer, get sleeve 8mm ID and 10 or 12mm OD, depending on your crank, to fill in the gap of 8mm to 10 or 12mm rod bearing. Get 12mm by 35mm ball bearings for the crank or sleeve them too.
 

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Well, my Cag 10mm FC crank is 98.5mm acrossed and 15mm Js. So, a cag is 1mm longer, get sleeve 8mm ID and 10 or 12mm OD, depending on your crank, to fill in the gap of 8mm to 10 or 12mm rod bearing. Get 12mm by 35mm ball bearings for the crank or sleeve them too.
The bearings get set in the case with anerobic sealer to make up for the 1mm by setting the bearings 1/2mm each side to compensate...When the sealer sets up the bearings will never move..........

For the bearings sleeves cause too much harmonic distortion........Theres bearings that fit the case aswell as crank without using a sleeve

the bearing needed is 12mm x 35mm x 10mm.....

http://www.gmnbt.com/gapseals_typeS.htm
 
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