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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey i got 47cc pocket bike and my pads have to be replaces so i was thinks should i replace the clutch and buy a stock three pad, or should i buy a clutch that has 2 big pads and 2 springs that look like shocks and are adjustable?? AND one more thing should i put rubber pieces under engine mount ???? to reduce vibration?? thx
 

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Alot swear by using rubber isolator mounts as a quick fix..To me quick fixes are temporary........

Im a firm believer in making things solid....These bikes may seem solid but theyre very rubbery...

If you took apart a cag to study the frame youll notice all cags have its weak points......The weakest link is the upper mount..it needs to be beefier because it withstands the engines power,,vibes aswell as the riders weight on the pegs that adds stress to the mount........

Welding in a more solid top engine mount and solidifying the engine plate aswell as adding a second top engine mount and better more solid muffler attachment will actually fix the problems.............Balancing the engine,, clutch and flywheel does the rest of the job...........

The stock cheesy top mount wasnt cutting it so with an old bedframe and my welder I made it better............Notice the beefy mount I made for the exhaust system too..........



Heres a better shot of the exhaust bracket and a shot at the added pullstarter side engine top mount to help strengthen the right side...It needs to be a bit beefier but the difference it makes right now is very noticeable...............

 

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Much better than stock top mount. I seen someone here awhile back also made a brace, that bolts to the left front case nib where its threaded to and up to the frame as extra support, been wanting to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thx for the mount advices!!!! and what about the clutch????? read the thread again cause thats the real advice i need mostly lmao thx
 

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If you mean this clutch in the pic....They dont work too good without modding them to fit and work correctly.......



Stick with the stock 3 shoe clutch and mod it for a higher rpm takeoff than stock...........

Modding one isnt hard and what the mod does is decrease the clutch size so theres more space between the drum and spinning pads..the extra space adds a delay to the clutches engagement for a stronger bottomend takeoff........

Once you mod the clutch into a smaller diameter you need to reshape the springs so theyre smaller aswell...stock springs can be reshaped with pliers and needle nose pliers.....HP springs need to be reshaped with heat......

To increase rpm takeoff even further you can crossdrill the pads...make sure to weigh each and keep them all similar weight within 1/4 gram......





Grind down the stopper bumps and the clutch tightens up...........

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thx for the tip one more thing i took the middle bolt of becaus eim taking the whole clutch off and i dont have the special tool to remove the wole assembly and its really hard to pull it off the shaft!!! is there another way to remove it?? thx
 

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Some times they glue them on, hard to get them off, I have had to split cases and hold the case half w/ clutch and pound the crank out off the clutch. Never been able to get a puller to work. Easier if you take the shoes off, then take the center piece off, or just change the shoes, you can buy them loose, then you can drill them and put racing springs on when you re-assemble.
 

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thx for the tip one more thing i took the middle bolt of becaus eim taking the whole clutch off and i dont have the special tool to remove the wole assembly and its really hard to pull it off the shaft!!! is there another way to remove it?? thx

A small 3 prong puller will do the trick............I use a lil heat to liquify the chinese loctite with a small colibri speed torch to help facilitate easier removal............

 

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Any local autoparts store like AutoZone,,AdvanceAuto,,PepBoys,,Checkers,,Schucks,,etc....That cheap china made puller costed me $8 bux..
 
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