[driver D]

Now I have at times made ​​the "small" housing 1
( case 1 = with sizes for mounting of standard- and BB- Cylinder ; inner size(s) for all comment 47/49cc cranks - up to 35mm stroke )

Before mounting , you have to modify your cyl. because the channels in the case are little bigger. After that the modifiying of the cas everydody can do, how he want, re which character of the engine he prefered

PICTURE 1- attachment

( both parts are just only " quick put together - for this picture- "
- without the register pins - there is no mismatch inside, whow it looks like on the picture !!i

PICTURE 2 - attachment
All in not modified orig. condition !


Take care by modifiying the cyl. because after that the sealing area left & right becomes very small ... so do not too much

Customized ( used) cy. on the orig ( not customized) case


Case customizing ... everybody should do himself, what needed and what he want

Mounting :

Seal fluid is not needed, the area is absolut plan. I made the test before.
*... but look a little bit down: update sealing

Bearings like usual, with the in warm/ cold - method to mount

oil seals at the end of compl. mountingdann , with little 2-stroke oil - in this one its easier than in the standard case

PICTURE 3- attachment

PICTURE 4- attachment

I will test if needed an extra paper seal between, because the air is not enough between crank and case


Like ever ... Iwill/ i must test it out.

EDIT:

Should be later a paper seal between, the crank is lightly a little " strong" inside and the valve intake "needs also a few mm more " by/ for mounting !
Now I have 0,18mm - should be okay.

UPDATE 23.01.2013
I take a paper seal between the case - 0,36 mm , only for the needed air between crank and case and also automaticly a smoother mount for the valve intake and manifold

UPDATE 26.01.2013
The bottom seal / cyl. you must make new yourself as needed.

The orig. stock is to small .


Cylinder:
BB3 - version
optimal with his third channel, in combination with the case

Ignition/CDI:
stock , with. NGK Plug / silicon / 5kohm - LB 05 EMH

Spark Plug:
C8HVX

Flywheel:
the light version ( or the old ligtened version with integrated, other firing point ( different magnet position )

Starter:
Alucase with the plastic wheel ( but the old one ) and wire secure

The drill hole above must be modified from 5mm up to 6mm because in the case is a 6mm hole; the 2 other are 5mm / stock


Valve intake & Manifold:
( holesizes and sizes like : Polini / BZM/ ZPF )

Valve intake :
comes with2 x fibreglasreeds/ mono + Vvnturi
( will be customized in Polini carbon )

Rubber Intake :
fcompatible for PHBG 15 - 21 , also PHVA 14 - 17,5

By valve- & rubber intake you must open the hole sizes from orig. 5 up to 6mm , because in the case there are 6mm holes to mount

Carburator :
will be the PHBG 15

Airfilter ( " like ever " ) , the small Blata / Polini metalfilter ( K&N) ;
till now there was the best results ( on my other Blata's genuine.)

Exhaust:
will be very strong , is not really much place when mounting ... because the carb now is on the top of the engine...I tested it with the Snake and the Fatty Pipe . .... possible better to take another exhaust, a run under engine because now it's enough place between rear wheel and engine...
We will see....

Clutch:
ike ever a customized 2-arms clutch ( the same kind of clutch which worked perfect , over the years )


Transmission :
I will give him a ZPF AC bell ( 78 ) in the stock housing.
Customizing needed !!

In the moment I had only to cut off little bit of the pinion holder , because it's a little to long, so the cain runs not straight.

PICTURE 5 - attachment

PICTURE 6 - attachment



This for the moment ... other news comes soon...


Regards


Driver


( I hope, my language is not so bad to understand the discription


EDIT:

I will put the pictures again inside because the rules here in this forum don't allowed the kind and quantity of setting pictures.

Please wait ... sorry

 

[driver D]

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Picture 4

 

[MathieuOuellette]

**** that case looks good. Still itching to hear how it performs. you said that head has 3 ports right?

if you cant get the pipe up and under the bike, or over the carb, the S pipe (Jet pro rep) can be mounted to go over the clutchbell but instead of back in just stay out to the side.

 

[CAM2]

I have a really good Question......But first the reason for the Question..........

Everytime I build an engine or give advice about porting and polishing more than a handful of members jump in and says ooh youre not supposed to polish the inside of the cases which I dont BTW.;- yet I see a beautiful billet piece that looks ever so much more shinier than my scotch pad could ever make the chinese aluminum..........But from the pics I see you assembled it without roughing up the intake runner or inside of the case.............

Do you or dont you Driver D beleive the myth so many are so quick to point out and swear by?????

I got another too because Im an inquisitive guy.........How much more heat will that thicker billet case retain against a porus sand mold case and do you think that with the raise in temps will there be a chance on seing vaporization of the fuel to cause poor perf due to the advanced vaporization?????

In my opinion and it is my opinion no matter how much different you design the engine case dont take away from the fact youre still running a chinese topend,,,The crappy chinese topend with port timing predicts the true power of the end result which is pretty weak without high-high compression and agressive porting....That chinese topend isnt gonna miraculously run a whole heck of alot better unless you design a cylinder like the air cooled Blatas/Polinis to compliment that case so if I were to make a choice Id just put an aircooled Blata or Polini engine in my cag and call it a true high performance upgrade...........

I do however admire the time put into the design aswell as craftsmanship and wish you well............

 

[EPR]

It's a thing of beauty, my friend, can't wait till I get started on mine in April. I have thought about other cylinders for the cases and what might be possible. There is a nice Stihl 44mm one ring 2 stroke piston for big chain saw, with a 10mm pin, My F1 engine FC crank is a 12mm, but I have a 10 FC on the way, might put that with the 44mm 1 ring piston in a Cag cylinder or...........?? It's just a project it will be fun. Going to start with a gold Cag alloy head like in your photos, but want a Winged 3rd Stage 4pc billet head, later.

 

[driver D]

@ cam 2



it's right ... I'm also not a friend of polishing - never .
( one example: when i's finshed, at least i take a small wire brushing to make the surface )
- only the crank assembly believed in " blinky-blinky"
- the intake you can make both

the pics are only made for illustration ( you may read, I wrote: this is a orig , unworked case,
only for illustration how did it looks like ... with the more adapted cylinder -

The finished case ... there are no pictures


This cylinder you see there was an old one, that was customized before for a stock case .

( Normally I don't set in my works into the forums... why ? - people see and noticed the results - since years on the tracks .. it's enough or not ( they now " the green" and were astonished )...
only building on a desk and measure and write , don't drive with track times to test, if it's okay or not ... this is not my opinion ... this kind of guys we named " Modellbauer " ( maybe translated : modell-builder )
Okay, let them do...

The cag model ( my first one from 2003by) is on the way when the other ones are finished and ready. I take it out with me every time when I drive to trainings and races ( it's a ritual since years: also when it only stands alone there but every time it's present ) , also to show the people that also a cag modell can be run quick and for trainings with a few newcomers and " newcomers " with brands bikes to find the line and so on...

I will test it out correctly in spring / outdoor to get really informations;
because now I test on my old case from 2003 ( the first one ) another customized cyl. and I have no desire and time to put this case in, because before I had little things to do, like customized another exhaust to build in and so on.
... and we have winter times here in Germany, no possibility to test ; therefore I wrote will be start of spring ..)

My main work is on my Blata genuine(s) . In the moment I have also to install my 40cc Zocchi engine into a Elite frame, modifying 2 Blata cases , also to test in spring outside ( one new case configuration inside and one with an installed 39,2mm- stroke crank to come up to 42 cc ... we'll see what happened, because a 50cc genuine in a little Elite frame is not "the hit" - better in a midi frame ( 2 Elite are always ready to race ...)


re the 3-port cyl. for cag modells:
.. ist the best one for the cag modells ( my experience - since 2006) ; with head of the BB2 an/or BB3
also in stock condition it runs better than the other ones , like BB4, BB5, BB6 ... ( "are only made for selling something newness " )

I saw it many times on track, people which had installed " the wrong-ones " also in combination with other needed parts - but they don't get the same performance ( and character) , make " big eyes " and asked : " why ??"

In the moment I have some different cyl. for the cag with rpm 's 12.450 - 12.770 -13.450 ( meassured under load- outdoor)- but rpm is not all

With this type of cyl you can make many different things , you want.
( but only bigger and larger is not every time better ...)


@ Quilette

??? ... re for your " special exhaust installing "

I know " hod rods " but I don't want to have a " hot legs" - modell .
For this you'll get a " smilie " - of free selection



But at least... everybody should do what he want to collect his own experiences !

 

[MathieuOuellette]

haha true the pipe gets hot and it's hard on the legs.... not too bad when your in racing leathers though.

 

[EPR]

I sand lines that go with flow of the fuel air mixture thru the engine. So, it flows in tiny grooves instead of acrossed a bunch of tiny ridges.

 

[driver D]

little update:

engine will resolved again because I have to put 2 adjusting washers inside ( between crank & bearings ) and it needs a little customizing of the timing ports.

The new under engine exhaust is also there .. after that , in the next times , the weather will be better and better , it goes outdoor to test ( also to see which carb size will be the most effective ).
If the under engine exhaust not effective, it will be changed into one of a WR/ WRS Blata under engine .

We will see...

 

[EPR]

Driver, I was just working with the cases today. $20 for good bolts. The billet cases and the C1 cases need modding, and my 8 yr old twin boys have a birthday Saturday. Looks like a Chuck E. Cheese day, I might leave them with my better half and go 3 blocks over to Driven Racing, to drive an electric indoor Go Kart, they hit 45mph on a small track, that's like a basketball court surface. Last time I took my 15 year old son he caused a big wreck in the hairpin and they red flagged the race, till they could clear the track. The Karts are near $10,000 each there made somewhere in Europe, it figures, they can hurt your neck on the start,lol.

 

[driver D]

$20 for bolts ??
( 4 pcs M6x45(40), 1 pcs M6x30 - in steel 8.8 )

Here do you buy your screws ? In a drugstore ?

I hope you don't buy V2A or V4 ( corrosion resistant steel) ... only 8.8 steel , the cr- steel ones killed threads , have not the strength as steel 8.8 , etc...

If I know before that you had no bolts , I would have to put into it a few .....would not be the big problem was....................for free

 

[EPR]

I bought new bolts for everything, the intake are hex head zinc and everything else is socket/allen head. 8.8 black bolts and a bunch of washers. I have bolts and stuff but they were to short or too long,lol. I use either a 1/4" and #10 SS split washers on the 6 & 5mm bolts and on the alloy head, star inside lockwaskers, sometimes along with a SS flat washers. I am going to use Permatex anti seize thread compound on all the threads, other places blue thread sealer.
He is a mockup of drivers cases, everything bolts right up.

 

[Vroomin350]

....That chinese topend isnt gonna miraculously run a whole heck of alot better unless you design a cylinder like the air cooled Blatas/Polinis to compliment that case so if I were to make a choice Id just put an aircooled Blata or Polini engine in my cag and call it a true high performance upgrade...........


I do however admire the time put into the design aswell as craftsmanship and wish you well............

I have an aircooled blata should I buy a case like this ?

I wish these bikes had more potential to be upgraded

 

[MathieuOuellette]

I have an aircooled blata should I buy a case like this ?

I wish these bikes had more potential to be upgraded

With the proper tools knowledge and parts these bikes can get pretty **** fast... Is it a real blata or a blata rep (Cag). Either way I'm pretty sure this case works on both.

 

[driver D]

this case ( house I) is only for the cag cyl. : standard + BB - types , neither the blata 2.5 ( Gilardoni cyl) nor other A/C Blata genuine as 4.2/ JR / R . The Blata cyl. are not compatible with this case ( also not with house II )
Therefor it gives the orig. brands cases

 

[EPR]

Driver, I want to see a Billet one piece B1, C1 water cooled head, No O rings, No head gaskets. You match the bottom of the billet cyld to the C1 cases, maybe alittle bigger ports,lol. Machine 5 or 6 water channels from the bottom, stop near the top. Then horizonally drill 5 or 6 channels in the top part of the cylinder in to meet the vertical channels. Tap the holes in the head, thread in water hose fiittings, tie them to gether into one hose that goes to the top of the radiator. No more blown gaskets, Yamabond the cylinder the the cases, and step back,lol. Or you could tap into the base of the cylinder similar to a polini water inlet cyld port.
If anyone can do that, you can, I'm retired from work and racing, have no mills or lathes to work with, only these Crazy ideas running around inside my head,lol,lol.

 

[driver D]

@ EPR

........



this kind of exhaust looks not good for mounting ( and also is a " little" to small , will be not the real one in relation ( header & exp. chamber) of the expansion of performance.
... and also no place for the ( PHBG- ) carb ,
so I have a new work, modifying one of my Blata gen. under engine exhausts, they have already another angle before and better expansion chambers.

 

[EPR]

I have 2 of those pipes, one I made a side pipe for my Lucky 7 semi chopper Cag.