New Member with 2 "new to me" bike

20567 Views 206 Replies 7 Participants Last post by CAM2, Aug 11, 2013

sberg

Discussion Starter · Sep 29, 2012

Just figured I'd introduce myself. I've been searching around and found lots of good info. Here is a few pics of the bikes I have.

The 1st is a Stroll ZX-R mini its in really rough shape. Missing the air filter, a foot peg, the plastics are cracked, missing some hardware here and there but it runs. She likes to be warmed up real good before riding.

Went to check the clutch for swapping it in me yellow bike but there was absolutely no pad left and missing 1 spring on the 3-shoe

The 2nd bike is my "gem" lol The plastics are in fairly great shape although I'm missing some fairings. Its missing foots pegs too.

Its starts and runs great but I think there is problem with the clutch. The bike has almost no power it will rev but will barely move. On a flat surface once you start some momentum in will pick up speed but the power is almost nonexistent.
Any idea? im thinking a new 2-shoe adjustable clutch will do the trick.

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CAM2

· #2 · Sep 29, 2012 (Edited)

Welcome to the site...you have two MT-a1 half fairing cags...Both are 43cc looking at the head fins....

The yellow bike is newer most likely 2010/2011 and has more restrictors on it than bike #1 due to stringent EPA regulations that need to be removed/addressed........It also has a much thinner walled steel frame.......

Theres ways to mod the clutch to work pretty much flawless,,Leaving the clutch un blueprinted will lead to frequent spring changes..........The hp clutches are mpore problematic than help,,,stick with an aluminum stock 3 shoe clutch and mod it for more take off rpm grab...

Good luck with them.............

sberg

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 29, 2012

Thanks Cam2 for the quick response and the help I noticed your very active and helpful around here.

Your very good to they are both 43cc I believe from what I've learned on here. The yellow bike still has the tags riveted on and it's says 2010. The green was a tag that says 2004 along with Stroll gas scooters.

How can I mod the stock clutch to grab better? I had some trouble finding info on that. I have a never used aftermarket pipe to install but the flange is not level, I need to flatten it out. Any other mods I can do to get it running more like the green one? Thanks

CAM2

· #4 · Sep 29, 2012 (Edited)

sberg said:
Thanks Cam2 for the quick response and the help I noticed your very active and helpful around here.

Your very good to they are both 43cc I believe from what I've learned on here. The yellow bike still has the tags riveted on and it's says 2010. The green was a tag that says 2004 along with Stroll gas scooters.

How can I mod the stock clutch to grab better? I had some trouble finding info on that. I have a never used aftermarket pipe to install but the flange is not level, I need to flatten it out. Any other mods I can do to get it running more like the green one? Thanks

You get a set of hp clutch springs,,cross drill the pad mounts and smooth out the sharp/rough edges around the spring hole on the pad and polish the pad mount holes/shoulder bolts........

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CAM2

· #5 · Sep 29, 2012 (Edited)

To get the yellow one running better,,,change the exhaust and the carb,,lighten the flywheel,,get a rocket key,,lighten and mod the clutches,,add a hp sparkwire,,do the reedstopper mod and get some better reeeds,,Id get a hp pumper carb retrofit kit for it also...........

My mega modded 2011 cag.................

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sberg

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 29, 2012

Okay so basically with clutches drill them out to lighten them up and smooth out all the contact points? Get HP springs which I'm assuming are weaker?
I can chop a few fins off the fly wheel too thanks. What's a rocket key?

CAM2

· #7 · Sep 29, 2012 (Edited)

sberg said:
Okay so basically with clutches drill them out to lighten them up and smooth out all the contact points? Get HP springs which I'm assuming are weaker?
I can chop a few fins off the fly wheel too thanks. What's a rocket key?

Yeah the mods are pretty straight forward for the clutch.............

Hp clutch springs are heavier.......The stiffer the spring the more inertia it takes to throw the clutch arms out...same for lightening...Lightening the pads causes the engine to have more rpms to get the arms to fling out and make contact with the clutchbell.....The modded clutch youre looking at engages at 2900 rpms...Stock it engages at 1800/1900 rpm's...That extra thousand rpms gets the power a lil higher for a better takeoff and a lil extra punch when going on and off the throttle which transmits into an extra or high performance modification..

you should also deglaze the clutchpads and the clutchbell with 100 grit sandpaper aswell to promote positive grab and less slip.................

A rocket key is a 10 degree advance key that replaces the stoch woodruff key.It advances the timing of the engine to get more power...These engines were designed for lawn equipment not rideables and have retarded porting and timing to keep down the heat and promotes longevity of the equipment they are associated with which were Homelite backpack blowers from 1980 to 1983....................

I have a thread outlining how to install one the easy way

http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/showthread.php?t=79475

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sberg

Discussion Starter · #8 · Sep 29, 2012

Subscribed! I need to get the clutch off I tried the other day it was tough even soaked in PB blaster, ill go to the auto store and get a puller for that.

This is the rocket key I need?

How come the green bike with no pads and missing 1 spring grabs better? lol

CAM2

· #9 · Sep 29, 2012 (Edited)

sberg said:
Subscribed! I need to get the clutch off I tried the other day it was tough even soaked in PB blaster, ill go to the auto store and get a puller for that.

This is the rocket key I need?

How come the green bike with no pads and missing 1 spring grabs better? lol

Yes thats the rocket key you need...............

It probably grabs better because the pads arent as glazed up or the pads arent as stuck as they oxidize pretty quickly and cause throwout problems...being a wussy on the throttle will cause pad glazing and clutch slip...you gotta stab the throttle 1/2 and above then hold on and ride it out and becomes more so when the clutch is modded for high performance...the gentler you roll the throttle the more slip ya get..the more slip the more glaze you get on the pads and the bell,,The more glaze the crappier it grabs ,, smells bad and burns up.............

What do you have trouble getting off the clutch pads or the pad mounty????If its the mount...leave it on and just put the new pads,,screws and springs on the old mount..............

sberg

Discussion Starter · #10 · Sep 29, 2012

At a stand still on flat ground I WOT and and its just sits there like a turd

Couldn't drive its way out of a wet paper bag! lol

When this happens I can smell all little burn up and when I remove the bell there is flakes of the pad almost. Im deff having some throw out issues. The kid I got this from said it was used 1 season then sat.

I had problems taking the entire assembly off. I'll leave it on there if its easier just to remove the springs then each pad arm by removing the bolt that the springs connect to?

Im not sure if any fly wheel mods, reed mods or if there is rocket key on the green bike but ill check. If there isnt and I do those I can get that one going even faster! ...Nice

CAM2

· #11 · Sep 29, 2012 (Edited)

sberg said:
At a stand still on flat ground I WOT and and its just sits there like a turd Couldn't drive its way out of a wet paper bag! lol

When this happens I can smell all little burn up and when I remove the bell there is flakes of the pad almost. Im deff having some throw out issues. The kid I got this from said it was used 1 season then sat.

I had problems taking the entire assembly off. I'll leave it on there if its easier just to remove the springs then each pad arm by removing the bolt that the springs connect to?

Im not sure if any fly wheel mods, reed mods or if there is rocket key on the green bike but ill check. If there isnt and I do those I can get that one going even faster! ...Nice

Yeah the materials the chinese use arent of any quality...Almost Everything must be disassembled and blueprinted...

the rear wheel must be properly aligned to the front sprocket and they must be parallel...a straightedge is the best way as the frames arent built conscentrically...........

The brakes must be tweaked so the wheel rolls smooth without any harsh rubbing

The brake cables and throttle cable must be lubed,,chain lubed aswell

The turd bike sounds like stuck clutch pads,,,leaving out the wavy washers and polishing up the mount holes and shoulder bolts will get ya alot further down the road...........

Its just easier to pop the springs and the pads and leave the mount on the crank....

if ya got a dremel you can pop the heads,,clean up the pistons,,polish them,,add 4 windows facing the transfer ports,,raise the sideskirt with two humps in the corners that are raised 1/8",,widen the exhaust port 1/8" on each side,,raise it 1/8",,portmatch the exhaust port flange to the pipe.. and yamabond down the head to raise up the compression and make even more power...If your handy you can grind in a 3rd port and add a window for that port in the piston to make it a 5 port which will almost triple its stock current power and offer alot more enjoyability.........

If you do go through with the basic mods youll need a jetkit for the carb aswell because with enhanced displacement and power youll need more fuel to feed it............

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sberg

Discussion Starter · #12 · Sep 29, 2012

Any idea what the stock jet size is? Ill go up from there as I mod. Probably going to work on the yellow one first with the cheap reed mod, fly wheel and clutch mod

CAM2

· #13 · Sep 29, 2012

sberg said:
Any idea what the stock jet size is? Ill go up from there as I mod. Probably going to work on the yellow one first with the cheap reed mod, fly wheel and clutch mod

Im pretty sure youre gonna have a 68 mainjet in there but seeings theyre 43cc you never know it may be leaner ...After mods youre gonna want atleast a 70 mainjet

EPR

· #14 · Sep 29, 2012

If you run it with a broken spring, the one pad will rub all the time and over heat your clutches, bell housing and so on. It's like driving a stick shift car with your foot pressing on pedal till it wears out the throw out bearing. The clutch pads and glue holding them on won't take much abuse before they fall off, lol.

sberg

Discussion Starter · #15 · Sep 29, 2012

I actually got an offer on the green bike for $100 so I took it. All I have is the yellow turd now.

I haven't order any reeds or the rocket key yet but I did drill put some of the clutch today.

I left the wavey washer out, put a tad of grease on the pivot bolts, Scuffed up the pads and bell housing with some 100 grit.

I tried to test the improvement and while yes it does grab later now its still slips. Going to have to do some of the other mods or maybe just buy new shoes for it.

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EPR

· #16 · Sep 29, 2012

I would put the spring washers back in the keep the clutch shoes from moving around under pressure. Just a few grams lighter on the arms makes a big difference. Need to sand the pads and bell, it might slip at first, but should work good.

sberg

Discussion Starter · #17 · Sep 29, 2012

How do my clutch arms look? Should I widen up the holes a bit?

After a few WOT test the pads still seemed to slip, Would move me from a stand still. Should I try some 40 grit or just do it again with the 100?

I know its hard to tell from the 2nd pic but the pads started to turn that blacker color and get smooth again after those few WOT tests

CAM2

· #18 · Sep 30, 2012

sberg said:
I actually got an offer on the green bike for $100 so I took it. All I have is the yellow turd now.

I haven't order any reeds or the rocket key yet but I did drill put some of the clutch today.

I left the wavey washer out, put a tad of grease on the pivot bolts, Scuffed up the pads and bell housing with some 100 grit.

I tried to test the improvement and while yes it does grab later now its still slips. Going to have to do some of the other mods or maybe just buy new shoes for it.

Those pads still look glazed and they look a bit unevenly worn between each pad thickness... not to mention youre missing about half the pad on one...the rest looks good but am afraid once you buy a new clutch will have to redrill them again........................How much do you weigh?

The one on the left is considered de-glazed.............

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sberg

Discussion Starter · #19 · Sep 30, 2012

I weigh about 180lbs. Drilling out the new arms wont be a problem it was easy to do and didnt take long.
So is my clutch junk?

CAM2

· #20 · Sep 30, 2012 (Edited)

EPR said:
I would put the spring washers back in the keep the clutch shoes from moving around under pressure. Just a few grams lighter on the arms makes a big difference. Need to sand the pads and bell, it might slip at first, but should work good.

Most times the wavy washers add too much pressure...The arms at the mounts are different thicknesses.......I had to sand down the mounts just to get proper clearance to just add the shoulder bolts and have them move freely without binding or hinderence..........His pads arent the best at all and I would never consider them as good or marginally good either...........

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