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Hi all.
Thought i'd post up a quick hello.
You'll no doubt see me posting questions int he tech sections later, searching for info to go with my home built 'side project'

Normally im playing with cars or riding my big motorbike, but because my father in law is awesome at finding 'random' things at markets and swap meets, i have managed to end up with a couple of electric razor scooters and a 32cc Tanaka 2 stroke motor from the late 70's.
From what i have been able to research it was used as a petrol add on for push bikes, sold under the name of Tas Spitz, or bike bug, to mention a few.
Unfortunately im old enough to drink, so it wasnt long before i had the nutz idea of sticking the 2 stroke on one of the electric scooters.
So far im sort of half way through mounting the motor, i need to sort out a clutch, run a chain to the drive wheel and rig up the old electric motor as an electric start (gotta have the niceties of life :D)

So, the tech details.
The original carb was shot.
I replaced it with a carb off ebay. The listing said it was for a 49cc engine.
Its a single slide type carbie, like an older SU carb.
The fuel is gravity fed into the carb. The fuel tank is somewhat temporary.
It'll do for now, bit it'll get changed.
The carb mounting matches the intake port on the motor so i bolted it straight on.
From what i can tell the motor is in good shape, it doesn't run an oil mix through the crankcase. It seems that this motor design may have been sold/or copied by the chinese companies that now put them in everything.
even the current clutch housing will bolt straight on.
At the moment, i dont have a clutch bolted to it, im trying to work out whether to use a 4:1 reduction ratio drive, or direct onto the rear wheel.
It has a 140mm rear wheel and a slightly smaller gear on it (i havent measured it or counted the teeth)
Im thinking the reduction drive would be a good idea because im not exactly a small bloke and it'll help it to get going.
From what i have found the engine revs to around 5K rpm? Correct me if im wrong on that, please.
I still have the original 70's style rear can on it, that'll get changed eventually.
The throttle cable is currently a bit of welding wire rigged up to work, a proper one will be coming soon. (ebay FTW)
I have a feeling im getting a bad air leak around the throttle cable, seeing as its a big open hole.
Currently im having some running issues, i can get it going with a power drill and it'll rev, but it wont idle, or start with the pull start.

Anyways, people love pictures, so PICTURES!!!!




Anyways, i'll see you all around, more tech questions to follow.
 

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Hi all.
Thought i'd post up a quick hello.
You'll no doubt see me posting questions int he tech sections later, searching for info to go with my home built 'side project'

Normally im playing with cars or riding my big motorbike, but because my father in law is awesome at finding 'random' things at markets and swap meets, i have managed to end up with a couple of electric razor scooters and a 32cc Tanaka 2 stroke motor from the late 70's.
From what i have been able to research it was used as a petrol add on for push bikes, sold under the name of Tas Spitz, or bike bug, to mention a few.
Unfortunately im old enough to drink, so it wasnt long before i had the nutz idea of sticking the 2 stroke on one of the electric scooters.
So far im sort of half way through mounting the motor, i need to sort out a clutch, run a chain to the drive wheel and rig up the old electric motor as an electric start (gotta have the niceties of life :D)

So, the tech details.
The original carb was shot.
I replaced it with a carb off ebay. The listing said it was for a 49cc engine.
Its a single slide type carbie, like an older SU carb.
The fuel is gravity fed into the carb. The fuel tank is somewhat temporary.
It'll do for now, bit it'll get changed.
The carb mounting matches the intake port on the motor so i bolted it straight on.
From what i can tell the motor is in good shape, it doesn't run an oil mix through the crankcase. It seems that this motor design may have been sold/or copied by the chinese companies that now put them in everything.
even the current clutch housing will bolt straight on.
At the moment, i dont have a clutch bolted to it, im trying to work out whether to use a 4:1 reduction ratio drive, or direct onto the rear wheel.
It has a 140mm rear wheel and a slightly smaller gear on it (i havent measured it or counted the teeth)
Im thinking the reduction drive would be a good idea because im not exactly a small bloke and it'll help it to get going.
From what i have found the engine revs to around 5K rpm? Correct me if im wrong on that, please.
I still have the original 70's style rear can on it, that'll get changed eventually.
The throttle cable is currently a bit of welding wire rigged up to work, a proper one will be coming soon. (ebay FTW)
I have a feeling im getting a bad air leak around the throttle cable, seeing as its a big open hole.
Currently im having some running issues, i can get it going with a power drill and it'll rev, but it wont idle, or start with the pull start.

Anyways, people love pictures, so PICTURES!!!!




Anyways, i'll see you all around, more tech questions to follow.
Looks like a pretty crazy but pretty clever setup...For one thing Id refine the way its mounted,,sooner or later the aluminum housing is gonna bust under strain

That floater carb....get rid of it and make a manifold that you can adapt a pumper carb to with a remote purge like a Walbro HDA48 pumper carb

add a rocket key to the flywheel

lighten the flywheel

add a lightened clutch w/hp spring

build it with a cag clutchbell housing and #25 chainset with a jackshaft drive to get the chains to properly line up without throwing off the balance and to also get a better adjustability in gearing it..........
 
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