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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is supposed to be the twin engine drag bike. Today I tried to put the front engine that's backwards in place. Found that I had to move the engine way out the left side of the frame which made the head hit the frame. The 5 to 1 transmissions stick out the right side so far, I would have to split the frame and widen, it not ready for that. So, I was looking at the bike, and this flash went thru my head the Polini engine. So I dragged it out w/ the radiator, and set it in the frame. Going to cut the Cag engine plate off & try to lower the engine. Can't fit the Rad up as it sits, spark plugs in the way, but after I move the rear axle back 8 1/2" might get it back in front. Cutting the body mount arms off, turning them in and welding then the be the top engine mount. Will have to weld in the rear mount bracket.
Still going to move the rear axle back w/ the rectangle tubing but 13 3/4" pcs that will move the axle back which when welded to the frame will move the axle back 8 1/2" which will make it 52" long over all.
Got out my spare C1 body, that Tsun sent me when the bike arrived w/ the tail broken. Putting the new one on the C1 and the C1 on this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got them at Dave's Orphan Sale last year on a package deal with a 14/14 Dell rep carb & manifold, and some other stuff the whole thing was $20. PBU wants $40 for the same billet alum ones,lol.
If you notice the rear wheel is off the ground cause thats is about how high it will be with the 8 3/4" extensions on the rear arms.
The head on the engine is finger tight, have to pull it, and see if I can remove the base gasket to lower the Squish, plus put the Viton O rings in the head. On my C1 the water comes up thru the block into the cylinder internally, where the Polini water hose mounts to the outside of the cylinder.
 

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love it have to say would love to do a job like that one day haha but have to say i think it looks rad and the ride hight will be grate and love the forks what a good idear cant wait to see the finishd look
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you notice the rear wheel is sitting on a can. That is the height it will be with the added 8 3/4" rear arms, running at the same angle as the OEM ones.
Going to take my Razor Rocket frame, and put a Mini ATV rear housing w/ bearings and an soild axle and 2 rear wheels, w/ a disc brake and two rear gears with a Boosted306 3rd stage engine to each one, or a side car racer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Worked on the engine today. Fitted the Real Polini Bell housing and Polini clutch. The hole where the housing fits into the case is 2mm or .080" to small, and the real housing lip is 2mm to wide. So, I tapered the hole and tapered the lip. I left enough of the old diameter in the case and the housing so I can run the stock China bell and clutches also.
Need a bracket to mount the water pump off the bell housing. E-mail Tsun, they have a bracket for a pump, it's for a Banshee Housing, but think I can mod it to fit the polini housing. I got the stuff from Capt. Highsider, looks like he use a stock gear and put the pully there and turn the pinion back on.
I also looked a Mid-South, for polini shoes, they have $200 to $300 racing clutch assemblies, to rich for my blood. The have replacement Kevlar arms for $50 a set but there for the two shoe clutches. Tsun has a Polini 2 shoe clutch for $40, think it's a China Rep, but I asked.
Anyone have a good 2 shoe plate for a real Polini that I can put Kevlar shoes on??
Tomorrow pulling up the cylinder and cutting the base gasket out, push it back down, see where the piston is to the top of the head, or Squish as we call it. Have an upper Polini gasket set here with 4 thicknesses of base gaskets, looks like .003" .004" .008" and .012". It's the thinest gold one I will be looking at first , probably won't need to go gasketless or use Yamabond w/ the thin ones. My Blata Rep eng has water going thru the cases and up the cylinder which means it easy to get a water leak at the base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Today hogged out all the ports, cleaned it up, and assembled the engine. Used the .008" alum base gasket, it's very close to the head now. Squish should be Great. Have to wait for the Ultra High Temp silicon to dry on the outer O ring that seals the water from leaking outside. Had to use the old/new one cause the real Polini outer o-ring was way to big.
 

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Looking good Larry..That thing should pick up a few extra horses and a whole lot of get up n go on that frame.......Keep up the good work...:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The 4 photo showing the ground out ports was taken ruff, so you could see it better, had to clean it up after. The third is it in my 6" Wilton vise, I ground the first edges with a 4 1/2" angle grinder, I was sweating bullets, going don't miss,lol.
I took the head off and the cyld up with the piston still in 2 days ago, was going scrape the .025" paper gasket and a bunch of silicon and try to Yamabond it back if I had enough clearance. When I looked at how bad the cases match the cylinder ports, I tore it apart. That's how we got to this point. My parts are being held up in Florida, cause of the Storm coming thru. I am waiting for my gas tank relieved for Fatty exhaust and 8mm, T8F-05T 6 tooth pinion for a Cag, going to try to put it on the Polini bell so I can run 8mm Chain to the X7 rear wheel. If not have the 60 tooth #25 rear gear but will have to open up the center and drill 3 new holes to fit the rim.
Getting ready to cut the rectangle tubing to extend the rear arms. I found that the big X7 alum w/bolt chain adjusters slide right inside the 3/4" X 1 1/2" steel tubing, so I plan to slot the rear tubes with closed ends and slide them in and run the axle through. Then the engine mounts on the frame will be next.
Yes, it will be higher and longer around 50" or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Made a front water pump bracket today from half a Stanley shed door hinge. It's better than the Banshee one, rear strong. It's mounted w/ abunch of washers thick & thin so I can line up the pullys, so the O ring belt don't jump off,lol. It's about a $160 bracket with labor, but I was not getting paid,lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes it is, if you look at the first photos of the bike you will see a black radiator under the bike, but think its going up front like my C1 after I cut the Cag mount plate off and weld mounts for the Polini.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't know if there better, but they put out at least 2 times the power of the same size air cooled bike. They have a 1 ring long piston and rev higher than a stock Cag engine. I put a real thin base gasket, and the piston just clears the head now,have to leave .020" or so to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, were both in California, The closes track to me would be Stockton/Sacramento and that track farther south in the northern central valley. Not happening this year though. Heard from Yong yet, or Cam2 about the Gold crank??
I tried to ruin my red oil color for the 125cc ATV, it was solid so I drilled three set of 11 holes between the ribs in the center part. Got to close to the passege ways in a couple of places and filled them with JB Weld, hope they don't leak,lol. My blue one from the same people came w/ slots in the middle.
My parts did not make it here cause FedEx don't deliver on Saturday, so the USPS won't get it till Tues. morning, cause of Labor Day. Need the parts, so It's Party Time,lol.
Why are water cooled faster, more and bigger ports and higher compression I believe and there is less drag with only one ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Today I started on the rear arms today, will finish them tomorrow. Will use the air hacksaw to ruff cut the slot and then the air file to finish.
 

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