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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I decided to sign up after getting directed here everytime I looked up something about my newest little project. Seems you all have been there, done that. Its impressive how much can be learned on this site. So wanted to be part of it. Thank you to you guys and gals that put info out about these little bikes, looks like its a lot of fun.
 

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Thanks. I had one x1 and one x2 a few years ago. A neighbor had them sitting in his garage for a few years and gave them to me. I have an odd assortment of motor driven toys that were either pulled out someone's trash or found left for dead. I rebuild them, ride them, and either keep them or sell them. They both seemed to be more of a hassle than anything and not constructed very well. I made them work and got rid of them. Fast forward to present, I sold an offroad golf cart that I built and the buyer had a x1 in his garage. He said it didn't run and was in the way so he asked if I wanted it. I brought it home and suprisingly this one is quite different. It has the same plastics, lights, size, ect. But the frame isnt like the other two. Nothing dramatic but definitely a little more sturdy. Now I am guessing that one of the old ones was an x2 because it had the cvt gearbox. Otherwise the two old ones were identical as far as I could tell. This new one is not identical even though at first glance it looks like it is. Even the sticker kits look the same. But this ones frame is different. Example, the headlights are mounted to the front plastics on the old ones. This one has a tube and bracket assembly welded to the front which house the lights and the plastic nose sits over top. Anyone know why the xhange? Could it just be manufacture date, or is there different editions? I am keeping this one and already have just about every bolt on performance upgrade ordered and shipped. Short of going big bore or engine swap of course. From what I've read my bike is a cheap p.o.s. but I dont care because I got it running and its fun. I hear though the real deal is like a polini or something? I am well educated in the dirtbike and vw buggy world but I'm pretty new to this crowd. Any wisdom is welcomed and appreciated. Btw some of you guys are exceptionally gifted with these. I have read a considerable amount by a person named cam2. Very impressive.
 

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the first gen 1 and 2 CAGs are built way better then the newer ones as the years go on the Chinese cut more and more corners
some of the so called euro bikes are made in China to the thing is the Chinese will build anything you want quality-wise it's all about what they get paid

Even Harley-Davidson is sourcing China Parts nowadays...
 

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Thanks. I had one x1 and one x2 a few years ago. A neighbor had them sitting in his garage for a few years and gave them to me. I have an odd assortment of motor driven toys that were either pulled out someone's trash or found left for dead. I rebuild them, ride them, and either keep them or sell them. They both seemed to be more of a hassle than anything and not constructed very well. I made them work and got rid of them. Fast forward to present, I sold an offroad golf cart that I built and the buyer had a x1 in his garage. He said it didn't run and was in the way so he asked if I wanted it. I brought it home and suprisingly this one is quite different. It has the same plastics, lights, size, ect. But the frame isnt like the other two. Nothing dramatic but definitely a little more sturdy. Now I am guessing that one of the old ones was an x2 because it had the cvt gearbox. Otherwise the two old ones were identical as far as I could tell. This new one is not identical even though at first glance it looks like it is. Even the sticker kits look the same. But this ones frame is different. Example, the headlights are mounted to the front plastics on the old ones. This one has a tube and bracket assembly welded to the front which house the lights and the plastic nose sits over top. Anyone know why the xhange? Could it just be manufacture date, or is there different editions? I am keeping this one and already have just about every bolt on performance upgrade ordered and shipped. Short of going big bore or engine swap of course. From what I've read my bike is a cheap p.o.s. but I dont care because I got it running and its fun. I hear though the real deal is like a polini or something? I am well educated in the dirtbike and vw buggy world but I'm pretty new to this crowd. Any wisdom is welcomed and appreciated. Btw some of you guys are exceptionally gifted with these. I have read a considerable amount by a person named cam2. Very impressive.
Welcome to the forum..

Big bore kits are a fable....Theres onlt two sizes of pistons they put into the midbikes...40mm[43cc] and 44mm[49cc]..


What gives the 2 stroke engines their power is whats called port timing and port duration..The ports can be modified to change the attitude of the engine and turn 1.6-1.9hp into somethong closer to 4hp with a dremel,handfiles a cordless drill and some 100 grit and 2000 grit sandpaper..

Just know the engines on these things originated as tool based engines designed to deliver reliability and lots of torque.To see what they look like before the chinese strip them down a lil leaner to bolt them to the frames..


Another thing to remember is China doesnt have a child labor law and 10 year old chinese kids do most of the assembly of the bikes and back in the day I used to see Cateyes labeled x4's X3's X5's and X9's...LOL

If you can post a picture of what you have it sounds like you may have an X5 X6 or even an X8 with X1/2 plastics attached..

They are cheap pos's but with the right touches and modifications they can be quite fun...

Good Luck
 

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Even Harley-Davidson is sourcing China Parts nowadays...
Nowadays...?..Harley Davidson has been mingling woith China since 2002/2003..

This was my Uncles bike I built for him he was hardcore american and felt Harley was the only thing left selling the American dream..

I hate to tell you how many times I had to ruin the packagong and remove made in china stickers off alot of the aftermarket parts he bought for the thing just so he wouldnt go down the crapper any faster than he was[because he had cancer] finding out the package that said Genuine Harley Davidson but was Made in China...

When I took the engine off to port ,polish, balance and blueprint the engine for more power and sustainability it was quite disturbing seeing how the parts were fitted and left raw with wicked casting slag in the intake port runners...

When he died it became mine which I quickly sold as I knew the only thing American made of the Aftermarket parts I installed on that thing was the model T ford taillight Screaming Eagle Exhaust and the $2000.00 Maltese Cross CNC Aluminum rims..

I still had all the original parts too but I was too busy back then to convert it back...







 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cam 2 you are yoda. In knowledge mind you. I am not trying to say you look like a wrinkly little green man with pointy ears, lol. Yes 2 smokers require a certain approach versus 4 stroke engines. Ive been tearing down, rebuilding, blowing up, then repeating the process on dirtbike engines since I was a kid. However I have read numerous posts by you and have learned an enormous amount in a short amount of time. Quick question I bought a hp carb and it came with an aluminum intake manifold. But its extremely small and my current manifold, I have already tapped and attached a boost bottle. Its also aluminum, I think. Would it be any better to use the new one or save myself the time and just run the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nm, answered my own question. The new manifold holes dont line up and no room to drill, tap for boost fitting. Got a different question though. Do you know a good starting point for the mix screws on the carb for tuning? Sorry to bug.
 

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Cam 2 you are yoda. In knowledge mind you. I am not trying to say you look like a wrinkly little green man with pointy ears, lol. Yes 2 smokers require a certain approach versus 4 stroke engines. Ive been tearing down, rebuilding, blowing up, then repeating the process on dirtbike engines since I was a kid. However I have read numerous posts by you and have learned an enormous amount in a short amount of time. Quick question I bought a hp carb and it came with an aluminum intake manifold. But its extremely small and my current manifold, I have already tapped and attached a boost bottle. Its also aluminum, I think. Would it be any better to use the new one or save myself the time and just run the old one?

LOL no offense taken from it...LOL..Thanks for the good words..

Chances are you bought the wrong HP carb kit as theres one for the reedported engines aswell as the piston ported ones..

If you have the correct manifold and plan on running a WT603 hp carb on the stock manifold the stock maniold must be modified with a dab of JB Weld to seal the spot where the pulse port aligns..

Theres plenty of space on a piston ported engine intake to tap two boost bottles with 1/8" npt fittings if needed..Its the reed ported intake that has space limitations and besides boost bottles don't work as good on reed ported engines than they do on piston ported ones..








A good starting point is 1 1/4 turns out on both needles ..If the engine is modified go 1 3/4 turns out on the LSN as a starting point.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Correct, the manifold supplied with the new carb was for reed port. I used the stock manifold which I had already tapped and added a 1/8 fitting. I am used to dirtbike carbs so while I get the basics of these little engines, some of the points you made are of great use to me. I got the engine back together last night. Got it back in the bike, installed the fatty pipe, modified the throttle cable to work with the new carb, and it fired up on the second pull. Haven't had time to tune yet because I didn't want to **** off the neighborhood, lol. I was unaware of the need to plug the pulse port however. Should I do that before continuing to tune? I would assume you mean a dab of jb at the front of manifold facing the carb? Btw I opted for the fatty pipe after reading another post you made about performance and sound difference between the skinny and fatty pipe. I had to add spacers holding the ignition box so it wouldn't ride against the pipe and the mount welded onto the pipe didnt even come close to being applicable for my bike so I fabricated my own and got it welded on. Members like yourself and epr are what makes forums like this one so valuable. Not sure where you guys live but if you ever come to southern california I would love to buy a couple of beers, haha. Maybe I will sell off some of my other toys in the near future because I've been bitten by the bug and want a real pocket bike like a blata or polini. My wife just shakes her head and calls me insane. Lol. If I can ever figure out how to get pics up on here I will post. Everytime I try it fails.
 

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Your doing Great, your photos need to be 512Kb or less, I take my 14 Meg photos to windows Paint and reduce them, then upload them here. There is Tapa you can use with your smart phone if you have one and put them here, but the have to 512Kb, ( 1/2 Meg ) or less. Or a Photo site, like photobucket, there are so many you can choose, lol.
If you can modify parts and make your own parts you will do well on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still working on getting up some pics but it isn't anything special...just another bike. Some of the bikes on here are pretty awesome. If I have the bike up and running should I still block off the pulse port on the intake manifold? I got sidetracked on rewiring some of the crappy harnesses on it. I want the lights and stuff to work so it will hold the attention of my kids. I didnt like the lights either so they've all been replaced with leds I had left over from some other projects. Split the blinker housings and replaced the xmas tree bulbs with led strips. The headlights are just gu5 base spots so I switched out to 50w leds (only 6w used). The output difference is unbelievable. Eventually I want a higher grade bike that I can focus on building for speed not gimmicks. Funny how I can be so mechanically inclined and such a dink at navigating some websites lol
 

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Still working on getting up some pics but it isn't anything special...just another bike. Some of the bikes on here are pretty awesome. If I have the bike up and running should I still block off the pulse port on the intake manifold? I got sidetracked on rewiring some of the crappy harnesses on it. I want the lights and stuff to work so it will hold the attention of my kids. I didnt like the lights either so they've all been replaced with leds I had left over from some other projects. Split the blinker housings and replaced the xmas tree bulbs with led strips. The headlights are just gu5 base spots so I switched out to 50w leds (only 6w used). The output difference is unbelievable. Eventually I want a higher grade bike that I can focus on building for speed not gimmicks. Funny how I can be so mechanically inclined and such a dink at navigating some websites lol
If you block off the pulse port the engine wont run hence the name "pumper carb".It needs the pulse of the crankcase to pulse the diaphragm to feed the fuel..No pulse no pump=no fuel delivery.
 

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The stock carb is a 13mm piston carb, the pumper carb is 15 or 16mm and has a throttle plate and choke plate blocking the bore like an old car carb. If you are mounting a 16mm carb to a 15.88mm carb you need to open up the int manifold bore. Then fill in the bottom of the pulse slot on the 15mm manifold till only the upper part of the slot matches the hole in the 16mm carb.
First pic stock carb, second pic pumper carb w/ V-stack.
 

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So the dab of jb weld is only if I use a pumper carb? I dont have any idea what mine is.
No they sell a WYK to WT carb adapter but theyre hard to find the aluminum ones and its a lot cheaper,faster and easier modifying the pulse port hole with JB Weld..

Take a picture if what you have and use this program to post pics..No sign up.

https://postimages.org/

If youre using the classic view put in the beginning and [/IMG at the end of the link.

Use the direct link header too.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got some progress made on the new project but my test run only got 31mph top speed. Used gps to help keep it as accurate as possible. Butt dyno was a big difference but gps doesn't lie. Guess I need to pursue other mods to try to keep getting faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey cam2, epr, I have a strange question for you guys. Is my clutch bell supposed to squeak like crazy when rolling the bike with the engine off? No drag, pulled it apart more than once while working on the engine and it seems fine. But with engine off it makes a racket when pushing across garage. Is that normal? I read somewhere the bell should be sanded to keep it rough. Both my bell and shoes are super slick but I haven't noticed any slipping while running. Thought I should ask the pros. Thanks for all the input thus far, much appreciated.
 

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Hey cam2, epr, I have a strange question for you guys. Is my clutch bell supposed to squeak like crazy when rolling the bike with the engine off? No drag, pulled it apart more than once while working on the engine and it seems fine. But with engine off it makes a racket when pushing across garage. Is that normal? I read somewhere the bell should be sanded to keep it rough. Both my bell and shoes are super slick but I haven't noticed any slipping while running. Thought I should ask the pros. Thanks for all the input thus far, much appreciated.
No its not supposed to make more than a chain noise..

Sounds like you may need to change the clutchbell bearing in the transmission..

Either that or the clutchpad bolts are backing out and striking the bell..

The bell should be deglazed and sometimes the pads too....

I use 100 grit emery paper to deglaze the pads and the bell

Most times I have to deglaze the clutchpads and clutchbell on my bikes n other things every few rides.....


Heres the difference between a deglazed pad vs one that's glazed....

click on video..
001-12 by Dizzy Gillespie, on Flickr


 
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