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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whatsup guys, im garrett and im from socal. i had 2 cateyes before, my first one was a junker, i think i picked it up from craigslist for like 60 bucks. tinkered with it and barely got it running. i know very little about tuning or pocketbikes in general so when it died i gave up on that. 2 years later i found a pretty solid cateye on craigslist. that thing hauled some ***(compared to my first one). not sure of the mods but it went a little over 30. two days ago i picked up a x15. i show up its a little dusty, okay no big deal. it starts up no problem, then i see it smoking. one of the wires was exposed and grounded to the frame. okay i can fix that. the radiator has a little metal piece that holds it back from the front wheel, it was chopped so i had to rig it up with zip ties to hold it back from hitting the front wheel. i will weld it when i get the chance to use my friends dads. so the first day im riding it after i fix a loose wire in the ignition(soldered it back) and the radiator issue, im testing it out and the chain started to slap around. i think its because it was too loose and the fact that the guy put a smaller gear in the back so it was closer to the frame. it had pegs on it so i had to go to walmart to buy a lug wrench to fit in there. we tightened it up and it was running so smooth. okay, top speed test run right? so we go out to the street and my buddy is getting my rough speed next to me, around 50/55 (im 6'1 230 lbs) so after some crusing i head back to my house and about 200 feet i hear what sounds like me running out of gas. at first i look down, okay gas in the tank, then i realize i didnt put any fluid in the radiator, it had very little so i thought it just over heated. after getting it home, i pulled the line from the carb, it was getting gas, i pulled the plug and put some gas in then reinstalled the plug to see if it would fire up, nothing. there was some air escaping from the plug(when it was pulled, does this mean its not seized up) when i tried the electric starter for a second. then i checked to see if there was an arc from the plug, i didnt see anything. the guy who sold it to me said he changed the coil before so maybe it has some issues, idk. do you think the (ngk) sparkplug could go bad like that or do you think its the coil? there is a racing cdi but idk how that might affect a stock coil (im assuming he put the cheapest one he could find). basically, are there any ways to check if the coil went bad or if i just need a new plug. also its a cluster fk with wiring, im not using any accessories (lights gauges etc) are there any diagrams or ways i could rewire it for only the essential wires needed?








 

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Wow I never would have thought the bike was in that bad of a shape. Infact there's a thread on it from the previous owner. So if I find it or you do, you might gain some more insight and history of the bike.
Here I found the thread. http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/showthread.php?t=79000
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow I never would have thought the bike was in that bad of a shape. Infact there's a thread on it from the previous owner. So if I find it or you do, you might gain some more insight and history of the bike.
Here I found the thread. http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/showthread.php?t=79000

yeah thats the guy i bought it from. so what do you think about it not starting up? whats a good coil that i could use. and it has that beefy red wire and ill get a new ngk if its done. also does the cdi make the coil run harder? again i know very little about these bikes. thanks for your help man
 

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yeah thats the guy i bought it from. so what do you think about it not starting up? whats a good coil that i could use. and it has that beefy red wire and ill get a new ngk if its done. also does the cdi make the coil run harder? again i know very little about these bikes. thanks for your help man
Sounds like youre gonna have to start from the ground-up////

do a compression test on the engine........most people that own watercooled bikes dont follow through and take it for granted that the water is always full or run the engine so lean the ultra-high temps pop the head gasket

take pics of the flywheel..

I have wiring diagrams but need to know the colors youre working with coming from your stator but the ones below should be good enough to use...

theres a way to test the stator to make sure its good







 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Sounds like youre gonna have to start from the ground-up////

do a compression test on the engine........most people that own watercooled bikes dont follow through and take it for granted that the water is always full or run the engine so lean the ultra-high temps pop the head gasket

take pics of the flywheel..

I have wiring diagrams but need to know the colors youre working with coming from your stator but the ones below should be good enough to use...

theres a way to test the stator to make sure its good








this is all a little confusing to me. how would i check the compression. and also im not sure what the stator is. can it go bad just like that?? it was running so smooth then it just died out on me. i didnt see a spark when i pulled the plug but the starter works and i felt air "wooshing" out of the sparkplug hole when i had it pulled and i tried the starter. to my knowledge the coil or sparkplug could have gone bad? is the stator what sends power to the coil? i dont have a dmm but i could go pick one up from walmart for cheap.

edit: also where does the cdi hook up in that diagram? and the starter?
 

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this is all a little confusing to me. how would i check the compression. and also im not sure what the stator is. can it go bad just like that?? it was running so smooth then it just died out on me. i didnt see a spark when i pulled the plug but the starter works and i felt air "wooshing" out of the sparkplug hole when i had it pulled and i tried the starter. to my knowledge the coil or sparkplug could have gone bad? is the stator what sends power to the coil? i dont have a dmm but i could go pick one up from walmart for cheap.

edit: also where does the cdi hook up in that diagram? and the starter?
The CDI is a picture of the stock plastic CDI and the plug is oriented looking at it from the rear where the wires go into the connector.....

Stators can go bad just like that,,,grab a multimeter and do the test....The wires come from the case cover on the same side as the foot shifter...If the stator doesnt come with-in specs its toast.............Theyre like 25bux shipped off ebay

To check the compression you need a compression test gauge...Some autoparts stores rent them free of charge but you gotta leave a deposit while your using it so you bring it back if you want your money back,,,If not ya bought a new useful tool..............

 

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Sweet, a water cooled 4 stroke, someone else here has one too. Listen to Cam2. Is it a 110cc or 70cc or.....? Are there numbers cast into the base of the cylinder?? It's a Collecters bike now, nice find. It has a hp CDI, and muffler, does it have an orange colored coil?? Has custom blue fork caps and a $40 throttle, not sure if the front gold tubes are stock or not. Click on that thread that Swheels put here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
also, the racing cdi i know it makes it run a little harder, would it make the stock coil or stator run "hard" causing it to go bad sooner? as far as the stator im not even sure what it is and how to check the ratings. im checking the ohms right? i could go pick up a dmm but from there im somewhat clueless as how to check. sorry again for being a noob haha im just frustrated and i wanna get this thing running again and hoping its not going to cost a fortune!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sweet, a water cooled 4 stroke, someone else here has one too. Listen to Cam2. Is it a 110cc or 70cc or.....? Are there numbers cast into the base of the cylinder?? It's a Collecters bike now, nice find. It has a hp CDI, and muffler, does it have an orange colored coil?? Has custom blue fork caps and a $40 throttle, not sure if the front gold tubes are stock or not. Click on that thread that Swheels put here.
how do i check if the coil is orange?? i believe its the 110cc verison. i think i read in that other thread that it is a special edition x15 or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
To check the compression you need a compression test gauge...Some autoparts stores rent them free of charge but you gotta leave a deposit while your using it so you bring it back if you want your money back,,,If not ya bought a new useful tool..............


do i just stick that in where the spark plug goes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
you see the other wire coming from the sidecase with the slotted sight plug to check the timing?That wire is the stator plug wires...........
do i have to take off anything, or simply find the two wires, and take the test to see if its around 500 ohms? assuming its okay would you say its safe to say the coil went bad? how can i test the coil?
 

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do i have to take off anything, or simply find the two wires, and take the test to see if its around 500 ohms? assuming its okay would you say its safe to say the coil went bad? how can i test the coil?
Follow the stator wire up and disconnect it from the harness,,find the red with black stripe wire and use the green ground to test the stator...it should read between 450-550 to be good,,any higher or lower and its bad.....

theres a test you can do to a coil too............0.1-100kohms on the primary...if you get no reading or too high a reading the coil is bad..

.Secondary resistance is 12.0 - 17.5 ohms. ...if no reading or too high a reading the coil is bad

another coil test that even tests the cdi.....Put the tester on 100 a/c volts and put the red probe on the coil input terminal and ground the other to the engine block......

crank engine....you should get between 40-50 volts going into the coil......bad voltage=bad CDI;-bad bwiring or bad stator,,,............good voltage= bad coil.....

With my experience in this crap has told me to buy quality electrical components when they go bad..I paid a lil extra for higher charging voltage and a better quality set of windings from Electrolux for my X18's,X15's and the x22's as they went bad....The cheap chinese windings are coated with gum arabic then shellac'd..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Follow the stator wire up and disconnect it from the harness,,find the red with black stripe wire and use the green ground to test the stator...it should read between 450-550 to be good,,any higher or lower and its bad.....

theres a test you can do to a coil too............0.1-100kohms on the primary...if you get no reading or too high a reading the coil is bad..

.Secondary resistance is 12.0 - 17.5 ohms. ...if no reading or too high a reading the coil is bad

another coil test that even tests the cdi.....Put the tester on 100 a/c volts and put the red probe on the coil input terminal and ground the other to the engine block......

crank engine....you should get between 40-50 volts going into the coil......bad voltage=bad CDI;-bad bwiring or bad stator,,,............good voltage= bad coil.....

With my experience in this crap has told me to buy quality electrical components when they go bad..I paid a lil extra for higher charging voltage and a better quality set of windings from Electrolux for my X18's,X15's and the x22's as they went bad....The cheap chinese windings are coated with gum arabic then shellac'd..........

thank you so much for all this info. ill try to test it by tonight. worst case scenario, if all are bad, do you think you could provide me some links to the parts i would have to buy? thanks again!
 
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