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new to the forum, x15 with some mods NEED HELP!!

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x15
6K views 40 replies 4 participants last post by  gt58 
#1 ·
whatsup guys, im garrett and im from socal. i had 2 cateyes before, my first one was a junker, i think i picked it up from craigslist for like 60 bucks. tinkered with it and barely got it running. i know very little about tuning or pocketbikes in general so when it died i gave up on that. 2 years later i found a pretty solid cateye on craigslist. that thing hauled some ***(compared to my first one). not sure of the mods but it went a little over 30. two days ago i picked up a x15. i show up its a little dusty, okay no big deal. it starts up no problem, then i see it smoking. one of the wires was exposed and grounded to the frame. okay i can fix that. the radiator has a little metal piece that holds it back from the front wheel, it was chopped so i had to rig it up with zip ties to hold it back from hitting the front wheel. i will weld it when i get the chance to use my friends dads. so the first day im riding it after i fix a loose wire in the ignition(soldered it back) and the radiator issue, im testing it out and the chain started to slap around. i think its because it was too loose and the fact that the guy put a smaller gear in the back so it was closer to the frame. it had pegs on it so i had to go to walmart to buy a lug wrench to fit in there. we tightened it up and it was running so smooth. okay, top speed test run right? so we go out to the street and my buddy is getting my rough speed next to me, around 50/55 (im 6'1 230 lbs) so after some crusing i head back to my house and about 200 feet i hear what sounds like me running out of gas. at first i look down, okay gas in the tank, then i realize i didnt put any fluid in the radiator, it had very little so i thought it just over heated. after getting it home, i pulled the line from the carb, it was getting gas, i pulled the plug and put some gas in then reinstalled the plug to see if it would fire up, nothing. there was some air escaping from the plug(when it was pulled, does this mean its not seized up) when i tried the electric starter for a second. then i checked to see if there was an arc from the plug, i didnt see anything. the guy who sold it to me said he changed the coil before so maybe it has some issues, idk. do you think the (ngk) sparkplug could go bad like that or do you think its the coil? there is a racing cdi but idk how that might affect a stock coil (im assuming he put the cheapest one he could find). basically, are there any ways to check if the coil went bad or if i just need a new plug. also its a cluster fk with wiring, im not using any accessories (lights gauges etc) are there any diagrams or ways i could rewire it for only the essential wires needed?








 
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#7 ·
Wow I never would have thought the bike was in that bad of a shape. Infact there's a thread on it from the previous owner. So if I find it or you do, you might gain some more insight and history of the bike.
Here I found the thread. http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/showthread.php?t=79000

yeah thats the guy i bought it from. so what do you think about it not starting up? whats a good coil that i could use. and it has that beefy red wire and ill get a new ngk if its done. also does the cdi make the coil run harder? again i know very little about these bikes. thanks for your help man
 
#10 ·
this is all a little confusing to me. how would i check the compression. and also im not sure what the stator is. can it go bad just like that?? it was running so smooth then it just died out on me. i didnt see a spark when i pulled the plug but the starter works and i felt air "wooshing" out of the sparkplug hole when i had it pulled and i tried the starter. to my knowledge the coil or sparkplug could have gone bad? is the stator what sends power to the coil? i dont have a dmm but i could go pick one up from walmart for cheap.

edit: also where does the cdi hook up in that diagram? and the starter?
The CDI is a picture of the stock plastic CDI and the plug is oriented looking at it from the rear where the wires go into the connector.....

Stators can go bad just like that,,,grab a multimeter and do the test....The wires come from the case cover on the same side as the foot shifter...If the stator doesnt come with-in specs its toast.............Theyre like 25bux shipped off ebay

To check the compression you need a compression test gauge...Some autoparts stores rent them free of charge but you gotta leave a deposit while your using it so you bring it back if you want your money back,,,If not ya bought a new useful tool..............

 
#11 · (Edited)
Sweet, a water cooled 4 stroke, someone else here has one too. Listen to Cam2. Is it a 110cc or 70cc or.....? Are there numbers cast into the base of the cylinder?? It's a Collecters bike now, nice find. It has a hp CDI, and muffler, does it have an orange colored coil?? Has custom blue fork caps and a $40 throttle, not sure if the front gold tubes are stock or not. Click on that thread that Swheels put here.
 
#13 ·
also, the racing cdi i know it makes it run a little harder, would it make the stock coil or stator run "hard" causing it to go bad sooner? as far as the stator im not even sure what it is and how to check the ratings. im checking the ohms right? i could go pick up a dmm but from there im somewhat clueless as how to check. sorry again for being a noob haha im just frustrated and i wanna get this thing running again and hoping its not going to cost a fortune!
 
#21 ·
thank you so much!!

if i wanted to go the cheaper route, i could just buy the first two links? in the 3rd link does that coil acutally have any more output than the stock 8 dollar one shown in link 2? also on my coil it has a beefy red wire for the sparkplug, are they interchangable and would it offer more power to the sparkplug if i were to swap the sparkplug wire onto the new coil? for the ngk sparkplug,my local honda motorcycle dealership should have it yeah?

i have terrible stomach flu today so i dont think ill be able to check everything. i might try putting the stock cdi if that does anything, for ****s and giggles.
 
#27 · (Edited)
When I first stated you were gonna have to start from the ground up I wasnt kidding....You need to fix the wiring a lil........


You need to add a grounding loop to that setup aswell.......



The green wire coming from the stator should have three 1ft 12-14 ga pigtails soldered to the end......

1 wire gets grounded to the engine block screw and from that screw a seperate 10ga ground wire about 10" long should go to the battery tray aswell

The second groundwire should go to the secondary rectifier ground so the overvolts dump straight to frame instead of back at the stator

The 3rd ground wire should be hooked into the ground wire coming from the coil

I really need to know where them wires coming from the coil go to .....
 
#29 ·
im uploading a video to youtube with a little wiring walk around. there is a ground from the battery clip to the engine block. the coil is grounded and the other wire goes to the cdi, basically if im understanding all this right, i need to connect the yellow wire from the stator to the rectifier(the thing with heat sinks near the starter solenoid?) and add a ground from the rectifier to (engine block?) which holes in the plug(rectifier) would i add the ground and yellow wire?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Heres what you do....First test the stator with a digital multimeter......


To fix your wiring right...............disconnect the ground wire for the CDI plug and pull the positive power wire coming from the coil coming from the CDI plug then cut the rest of the wires with atleast 3" of wire length off the harness,,,,,,youll have a cut off plug with 5 wires..............

Youre gonna rewire the bike so you can get fire...Its easy and will take 15-25 mins......

Looking at the plug from the back with the locking clip upwards you will see 6 spaces where only 5 wires is used

On the wires coming from the stator youre only gonna need the black w/red stripe,,blue w/white stripe and the solid green right now....

Top left hole wire for CDI plug....hook to the blue w/white stripe wire coming from the stator

The top middle hole is left open or blank...

Top right hole wire for CDI plug.....hook this wire to the red w/black stripe wire coming from the stator

At the end of the green wire coming from the stator should be four 1ft long pigtails soldered onto the end

Bottom left hole wire for CDI plug...This your ground wire to hook 1 of 4 ground wires to

bottom middle hole wire for CDI plug is black w/white stripe...this goes to the same color wire coming from keyswitch..when grounded it kills the engine

bottom right hole wire from CDI plug............this wire goes to the black terminal on the coil

The other 3 ground wires go as follows......

1 ground wire out of 3 ground wires left goes to the coil ground lug

1 ground lug gets allocated for the rectifier ground

1 gets grounded to the engine case screw........

Ive rewired many-many superbikes and have had a couple rewired for streetlegal use so I know what the wiring is supposed to be like...In these bikes lots of good solid grounds are important........







 
#32 ·
your bike looks so sick!

to start my bike i have to hold the front brake and press that red button to activate the starter, how would that affect the wiring? like basicially im going to rewire the stator to the cdi and the cdi to the coil. while adding grounds from the stator to the block, coil and rectifier?
 
#35 ·
while i try to rewire this up, i think i should also do some cleaning of the carb and get new fuel lines. the exhaust has melted some of the line leading from the gas tank to the carb. i heard some stuff of a 1/4 inch fuel line plug bigger filter? also do you think autozone would have the fuel lines and filter? and also i think its the carb overflow, does it lead into the radiator? its crusty and leaks some fluid. they should have that aswell at autozone?
 
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