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New to the x18 (gs-59) platform. Need some help!

3873 Views 23 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  EPR
Hey guys I just picked up a gs-59 or x18 I guess its called. It runs really strong. Does at least 45mph. I cleaned up the carb, installed an NGK R plug, removed the stickers, painted it black (was sun faded), and a few other things.

My first questions are what front sprocket should I run to get a little more top end? I'm ~140lbs so the bike should have the power to get me up to speed.

Second. I'm missing the lower plastics up front. I was told this was a 2002 model bike so I'm worried the plastics from different years will not interchange. Any help where I can pick up a set? I would really like to paint the bike blue and make it look like an R6 Yamaha.

Third. I tried to do that exhaust mod that was posted for my bike. What a pain in the *** lol. I think all I did was a stage three but at least its louder. I'll have to open it up again and cut off the plug at the end of the perforated pipe

Fourth. The tac and speedo go crazy while driving. They bounce all over. Any DIY's guides as to fixing these issues?

Finally fifth. The bike vibrates like a SOB! Why is this lol. It's almost painful to hold on to it at a higher speed...

Here are a few pics of the bike if it helps you tell me what I need

Thanks guys!
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its an x 22, bigger sprocket than the current one or a smaller rear, idk where to get plastics, pry have to buy them from someone on here. try ebay? to get the bike to stop shaking so bad you pretty much have to take it apart and use better nuts and bolts and locktite. and the stock speedo sucks on all these bikes and there isnt any fix for them that im aware of.
The bike says GS-59 right on the handle bars. When I google that P/N it comes up with the X18
there are a million names for the same bike, derrick told you right
try looking for x22 stuff, that bike didnt even come out till like 08 and its a 110 full auto, pretty much slow unless you change the motor to a shifter but there are things you can do
redo the two motor mount bolts, drill the frame and motor to 3/8s, go get two 3/8s bolts that are grade8 and some similar nuts and that will stop alot of your vibration
tighten the neck stem and triples, if this is loose it will be terrible at speed
ive seen those three spoke rims explode at the track so look for any stress cracks and always ride with 30-35psi and no jumping or wheelie setdowns...or else
the rake on the x22 is almost verticle so its gonna turn crazy, be careful
gl and uh ya
Man all of a sudden there is a plethora of x22's popping up lol and I still can't find one local
It's not an X18, thats for sure. I would check the engine mount bolts first. If they come loose and you keep riding the bike it oblongs the mount holes and the engine wobbles on the frame. Then get the wheels in the air and spin them to see if they wobble.


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Where are the motor mount bolts? I was looking and it seems like there are two near the rear strut/spring. They are kinda behind the foot pegs.

So how hard is it to convert to a manual? Just a trans change? I do have a friend that had one of these 110cc manual superbikes. He still has the motor and trans.

I think some of my vibrations are coming from the front plastics. Is that a common problem? It's kinda embarrassing driving the bike around and hearing that.

I was thinking about getting a CDI for the bike. These ones any good or are the ones that advance the timing any good. I realize if they can effectively advance the timing it should be better but I read on here that they are not very good.
Here is the one I was looking at.

the 2 bolts holding the motor to the frame are the motor mounts... more like an engine change and yea it could be from the plastics too, put some rubber washers in between the bolts and the body pieces to fix that and for the blue cdi, or red/gold, its all the same thing. theres alot of mixed opinions about them tho.. idk if there worth anything or not.
Ya I would look on eBay or look around for the blue 5 pin cdi
The stock one is fine just from racing or really riding hard it does tend to overheat or get a little hot
The motor mount bolts are most likely the vibration problem
to change to a manual trans you need to change the whole motor so pick up your buds 110 and put it in the motor and trans are in the same case no swapping
You will need a clutch cable and lever also
Yes, the two big bolts on the back side off the engine. Take one out at a time and look at them and the hole in the frame and engine where it goes thru.
The bike vibrates so badly because of the high revs crappy cut gears and the unbalanced centrifugal clutch.......

Im curious as to how you got a bone stock full auto engine to 50mph with all the restrictors n such but if its KPH thats makes sense as my X22 was brand new ran 10 minutes,,fell over on the previous owner and wouldnt restart because when I got it found out it had a bad stator,,,after fixing and tuning it only went 38mph tops and rang my nuggets hard from the harsh vibes............

I got that same x22 to 52mph and that was with

25mm carb and intake from an ATC 185 jetted 38/90,,c-clip on the 3rd setting

homemade headbreather mod,,

racing CDI,,


Iridium plug,

5w/20 Amsoil Full synthetic,

exhaust wrap,

muffler mod,,

light head porting

trans gear smoothing,outter clutch mesh countershaft gear smoothing and a tad bit of radiusing aswell as staitic balancing of the clutchpack..........
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I can confirm that his goes 50. I have a 2008 ruckus and i can get up to 45ish and his is still alittle bit fast. Plus my brother rode against him on a baja 150cc gy6 moped and had it at 50mph and djlamp was right beside him
I have a feeling that the rear tire being a bit crooked (not perfectly straight with the bike could be causing all the vibrations. When I lift up the rear and floor it the chain wobbles a lot and yet the chain is very tight. The chain could use some oil but I seriously doubt that is the issue here.

Today I installed rubber washers on the front body panels. Have to see tonight if they helped any.
the chain should have a little slack, re set the rear wheel till it rolls true
We went out and retightened it all, readjusted the wheel. Drove really good. Went out for a cruise and on our way back something went wrong on the bike.

Starts and idles just fine. As soon as you give it full throttle it just pops/ dies. Might not be getting enough fuel or the fuel filter is clogged. We are gonna check on it today.
Check the brass main jet & pilot jet next to it, if they get dirty from the gum in your gas, the bike won't idle or run right. My ATV has a new 25mm carb, it will not idle but runs w/ the choke on, a sure sign the pilot jet is clogged, it has about a .016" to .020" hole.
Check the brass main jet & pilot jet next to it, if they get dirty from the gum in your gas, the bike won't idle or run right. My ATV has a new 25mm carb, it will not idle but runs w/ the choke on, a sure sign the pilot jet is clogged, it has about a .016" to .020" hole.
Sounds like it needs more fuel...youll find it has a non-adjustable needle..I just put two tiny and thin washers under the c-clip and it gave my 150 the fuel it needed til I swapped in the OKO 30mm carb from the scooter and then that thing was really flying..............LOL
Swapped the fuel filter out and cleaned the carb runs good but it's smoking a little when he gets on it. He can't gun it off the line or it will die.

He said there are two adjustment screws on the carb. One is for idle and the other one is angled downwards. Does anyone know what this one does? A/F ratio adjustment?
yes and making that one richer will help with off the line performance, turn it out 1 turn and see what happens
He is selling it tonight. Bought it for 275$ put 30$ into it and sold it for 350$
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