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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a slow night so decided to do an intro on here.

I'm driving up to new york on monday to get an x15 I found on craigslist for a decent price. Four speed manual version, I think I saw they have an auto version but who wants that if you have the option? Do you guys have an idea of the top speed? I'm hearing mixed reviews on it, this would be after removing the governor of course.

I probably would have opted for an x18 but there's no bikes on cl around me, hell I'm driving three hours just to get this one lol. It looks to be in good condition, new paintjob but it's missing a windshield and the electric start button which I'll have to ask about when I get there. He say's it starts right up good when you use the kickstart which is fine by me but if he repainted it and it's missing the start button and windshield I have to wonder if it got beat up at some point. It's okay either way because I'm probably going to make a project out of it and rework it completely anyway. Might even have a spare set of offroad tires just to screw around trailing with a couple people for giggles.

This night just got better, off to taco bell with some friends! :D
 

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Welcome to the site.....Offroading an X15 is almost comparable to riding a bucking bronco and not recommended.....As far as top speeds youll see a topspeed of 40-45 mph in bone stock form.....modded youll see 55-60 up to 65 with the right mods.........Post up pics when ya get it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
will do :D

For the project I'm going to go something along the lines of
-Race Head – (now 25/22mm) Also has bigger cooling fins.
- High performance race camshaft
- Lightweight aluminum cylinder with steel sleeve
- Oversized cooling fins on cylinder
- High compression 54mm piston with rings, pin, & clips
- Head gasket kit
- Mikuni VM26mm Performance Carb
- Intake Kit for the Race head
- Jet kit with 3 different sizes (Stock size is a #195 - Extra jets sizes of 155, 165 & 175)
- Throttle Cable

that one was a kit, after that I need an aftermarket exhaust (I'll prob just make my own and buy a can) and I'll be upgrading to oil cooled to help keep everything running smooth with the new power.

I can always upgrade suspension for the trail riding and like I said it would really be for shiggles and would be comic relief more than anything lol. It will be a while before I can do anything to it though unless I start small with a new cdi or something, just because if you do one thing you have to do the others to balance it. :)
 

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will do :D

For the project I'm going to go something along the lines of
-Race Head – (now 25/22mm) Also has bigger cooling fins.
- High performance race camshaft
- Lightweight aluminum cylinder with steel sleeve
- Oversized cooling fins on cylinder
- High compression 54mm piston with rings, pin, & clips
- Head gasket kit
- Mikuni VM26mm Performance Carb
- Intake Kit for the Race head
- Jet kit with 3 different sizes (Stock size is a #195 - Extra jets sizes of 155, 165 & 175)
- Throttle Cable

that one was a kit, after that I need an aftermarket exhaust (I'll prob just make my own and buy a can) and I'll be upgrading to oil cooled to help keep everything running smooth with the new power.

I can always upgrade suspension for the trail riding and like I said it would really be for shiggles and would be comic relief more than anything lol. It will be a while before I can do anything to it though unless I start small with a new cdi or something, just because if you do one thing you have to do the others to balance it. :)
Are you meaning a 114cc engine kit....?

It would be cheaper to buy a GPX based 125 off of ebay and then buy a racecam w/valvesprings with carb for it....

Heres the best engine combo for a 110cc engine to build maximum power,,,,,,,,,This will make a 118cc engine aka 120cc revver that will run with 138cc/140cc engines.........

big valve head and racing camshaft with hp valvesprings,,pocket grind the valves deeper,,,get a 54mm cylinder thats 69mm long,,overbore it to 56mm,,get a 56mm high compression piston,,install a 51mm stroker crank,,high volume oilpump,,new timing chain and Inner rotor kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you meaning a 114cc engine kit....?

It would be cheaper to buy a GPX based 125 off of ebay and then buy a racecam w/valvesprings with carb for it....

Heres the best engine combo for a 110cc engine to build maximum power,,,,,,,,,This will make a 118cc engine aka 120cc revver that will run with 138cc/140cc engines.........

big valve head and racing camshaft with hp valvesprings,,pocket grind the valves deeper,,,get a 54mm cylinder thats 69mm long,,overbore it to 56mm,,get a 56mm high compression piston,,install a 51mm stroker crank,,high volume oilpump,,new timing chain and Inner rotor kit
how much will that run? I was worried it wouldn't be cost effective to do all that and would be better to just get a new engine. If I can do what you said for cheaper I'm all for it! Should I not get a new carb or cdi? My goal with the bike is top speed more than anything with decent acceleration. I won't be taking it to the drag strip but maybe the track and mostly just cruising around on the back roads around here. I live in the middle of no where with amazing curvy country roads with some good straights and they just beg people to go riding on them.

Do you recommend any sites to get those parts? If you could pm me some more in depth information so I know what I'm looking for it would be great. How do I bore it out? Don't you need special tools for that? I would rather not have to pay someone to do work on it for me ya know? thanks again :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Vehicle Automotive exterior Car Vehicle door Windshield


Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Transport


Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Car Motor vehicle


not sure if those images will come up lol.

the good:The bike is awesome and bigger than I anticipated which is great. It also pulls like a monster and has the same sound and same noise level of a Harley, and that can't be beat :D

the bad: it's missing the back foot break lever and possibly more for the back break but I'll have to check it out. It's also vibrating terribly at higher rpms which doesn't seem right at all. I had my dad check it out for me and he says it could be the tranny or the engine might not be lined in just right. The clutch also seems a little finicky going into new gears so the transmission might be having trouble which could be causing the shake. It's by no means not ride-able though.

edit: just checked the number on the engine and it's the hs152fmh engine which is the normal 110. It pulls great for being so small!

Loving the bike so far! :)
 

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Welcome aboard, sounds like a tipical China bike, I have an X18, and a bunch of other bikes. My look for parts at PB Parts in Florida. On the vibration, check your 2 engine to frame mounts in the rear of the engine. The alum can oblong and move on the bolts, you can drill them out one size bigger and use bigger bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welcome aboard, sounds like a tipical China bike, I have an X18, and a bunch of other bikes. My look for parts at PB Parts in Florida. On the vibration, check your 2 engine to frame mounts in the rear of the engine. The alum can oblong and move on the bolts, you can drill them out one size bigger and use bigger bolts.
thanks man I'll do that. I was so stoked to go riding today but out of no where we just got a ton of snow, what is this!? Darn weather can't get it right, they were saying all we should have is wet roads but that didn't happen lol

I'm actually looking at parts on the hondatrailbikes website. It's the same parts for a lot cheaper because they remove the middle men, but I will need to branch out a bit because they don't have all the parts I'm looking for. My buddy might have some extra 1/4 fuel line laying around for me to upgrade that right off the bat. I have a little money set aside to do some early mods to it, what do you think is more important to start out with? I don't want to spend more than 50 bucks and here's what I'm looking at.

a 22mm makuni carb for 50 (I think that will remove the issue of that restriction plate in the snorkle breather?)
an air filter for 16 (also think that will remove the restriction plate)
head breather kit for 26 (I saw on here you can make one yourself but the directions were crappy, can you explain how to do that a little better?)
a new cdi for 35
aaannnnd I think that's it.

What can I do to it from stock without spending money? Just to help get the power out of it that it should have but it's held back from. Thanks again for any help I can't wait to get this thing really going! It has so much more power than I was expecting and just putzing around yesterday was ridiculous fun, bring on the warm weather!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well my tax returns just came in! Now I have a little play money after I pay back my dad for the amount he helped float to get the bike. It looks like I need to spend 50 right off the bat to get parts for the back break. I also have a wiring question. I have a tail/break light and the front head lights with high and low beams work but when I use the front break the back tail light doesn't do anything. Maybe it just works with the back break? Also I have what appears to be a temp gauge but it seems to actually be wired to tell me how much battery I have lol.

More good news is I just got some really nice gear today thanks to someone on here who mentioned leatherup.com, great shipping times and everything fits but you def need to go a size up from what you think. Now I'm itching to go out and ride even more! I got it up to third gear today but the roads are still covered in salt and without a back break I don't want to go any faster at the moment. Never even looked down to see how fast I was going because I'm focused too much on everything else :)

The engine is mounted in really well so the shake at higher rpms isn't that and my dad still thinks it's something to do with the transmission but I had a friend over who knows these better and he said it feels like it's the plastics rattling but I think it's more intense than just that.

I was able to look around under the bike with some better weather and it seems to already have an air filter, not sure if that's stock but maybe the restrictor isn't in there anymore? I still need to get all the plastics off for a better look.

So here's what I'm looking at right now for the bike, 50 for the brake work, 50 for that 24mm carb and 35 for the new cdi. I think that will be a really good start for mods to the bike and while I have it apart I can check the tranny for any issues. Any other ideas on what might be causing it? Sorry for the double post :)
 

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You can get parts alot cheaper, I got a blue CDI & orange hp coil for $20+ dollars, and you want to pay $35 for just a 5 pin CDI, there all the same, they change the plugs on the end to fit scooters and everything else,lol.
 
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