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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is a Lucky 7. The Cadillac of chinese frames. Ha. Basically all the regular cag parts will work. Looking up mta2 parts will work. The frame is different.
Thanks for the info, I'm happy now and can do some research (y).

I read some specs:
REMOVABLE SWING ARM
49cc 2 STROKE MOTOR
STURDY BOXED MAIN FRAME
TUBULAR STEEL SWING ARM
BETTER QUALITY COMPONENTS FROM
CONTROLS TO BODY PLASTICS THAN MOST
COMMON CAG MODEL BIKES.
BETTER HANDLING AND HIGH SPEED CONTROL.

Anything you recommend changing/upgrading or popular mods?
 

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Thanks for the info, I'm happy now and can do some research (y).

I read some specs:
REMOVABLE SWING ARM
49cc 2 STROKE MOTOR
STURDY BOXED MAIN FRAME
TUBULAR STEEL SWING ARM
BETTER QUALITY COMPONENTS FROM
CONTROLS TO BODY PLASTICS THAN MOST
COMMON CAG MODEL BIKES.
BETTER HANDLING AND HIGH SPEED CONTROL.

Anything you recommend changing/upgrading or popular mods?
the bike has a basic cag engine, look up performance parts 47cc 49cc or whatever you鈥檙e looking for and there will probably be something. bigger carb and cone filter would be a good performance start,
 

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Is a 19mm carb too big as don't see many 15mm for sale anywhere.
You want to port the stock carb and there is another carb to choose from. I can't recall it though.
What you want to do is buy these parts.......
ufo - cone air filfter
pack of jets - 66-68-70-72 jets
fiberglass reed
lightened flywheel and rocket key
take a pic of your exhaust - is it aftermarket? Upgrade to a better exhaust if yours is stock.
Last thing you are going to want to do is get a big bore kit and machine a boost port in it. Unless your engine blows up, just wait on the bbk.

You can lighten your clutch arms and run stiffer clutch springs.
 

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What's your poison? Mine is 40:1
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Pretty much all been said. But in my experience, IF you keep the stock round slide carb, DO a petcock mod, and taper bore the front. Definitely the velocity stack and ufo filter. Better exhaust, and reed.
If you do more work I have found the stock tin reeds have less flutter. Also do a reed stopper mod. All threads on here.
After that in my opinion port the single piece head and case.
 

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I second Sideshowbob. I have found these bikes are most fun and most reliable with the more simpler mods. Proper air fitler, fiberglass reeds, heavy duty clutch, and the stock pipe mod. After that you'll have to rejet. I wasn't a fan of the big bore kit. lots of work to get it tuned right and then its not very reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's pic of engine and exhaust as I have stripped the bike for rebuild and paint.

I thinks BB engine and prob stick exhaust?

For first mods if I add filter, velocity stack and carbon reeds will I have to re-jet? Is there a fuel mixture adjustment or just for idle?

Thanks for your help.
 

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Here's pic of engine and exhaust as I have stripped the bike for rebuild and paint.

I thinks BB engine and prob stick exhaust?

For first mods if I add filter, velocity stack and carbon reeds will I have to re-jet? Is there a fuel mixture adjustment or just for idle?

Thanks for your help.
the standard carbs have a jet you may need to change, but i don鈥檛 think the reeds and velocity stack warrant a rejet as it doesn鈥檛 really add more air to the mix, just optimizes flow. that鈥檚 a good exhaust there.
 

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Here's pic of engine and exhaust as I have stripped the bike for rebuild and paint.

I thinks BB engine and prob stick exhaust?

For first mods if I add filter, velocity stack and carbon reeds will I have to re-jet? Is there a fuel mixture adjustment or just for idle?

Thanks for your help.
You want a fiberglass reed for a stock engine. Carbon fiber would be for a modded engine. You have 4 fiberglass reed options to choose from.
Yea, you will want to rejet when you install the fiberglass reed to a 0.68 jet. Some of these engines came from the factory with a 0.64 jet to limit the speed to a crawling pace. I assume some came with a 0.66 but the fiberglass reed will raise your rpm by 10% and you will need more fuel.
If you want to skip a lesson .....
the 40mm bore engine uses a 10mm wrist pin and a 44mm bore uses a 12mm wrist pin. To install a big bore kit on an engine with a 10mm crank , you have to take it apart to install a crank with a 12mm wrist pin.
 
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