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So I have a 2011 47cc cagllari pocket bike from minipocketrockets.com. After a month or so after break in period it started bogging down/dying. Frustrated from working on it So much, i just decided to buy a new motor. And around the same time a month later the new motor did the same exact thing! I have the air/fuel mixture screw set to a good idle, But once I pull back on the throttle sounds as if its running out of gas, about to die, which eventually happens?marcelo
Need Some Help Please! its really depressing, Almost losing sleep over the **** thing.:eek:
 

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Welcome to the hassles of owning a cheap chinese bike...Its not as bad as it sounds in some cases but youll get a world of knowledge tearing into them and getting them debugged and running like lightning.......Just dont give up and let it get you down...

As the engine gets looser it will want more fuel naturally but because of cooler temps and cheap chinese parts those things can and do happen alot...

Pull the sparkplug to get an idea of whats happening to your bike,,black=rich and white=too lean

Checking the airfilter for obstructions,sucked in filter element and dirt is another thing you can look for...

Swapping out the fuellines,fuelfilter out for 1/4" lines plus 1/4" high flow filter,,drilling out the fueltank output hole then washing out the tank and doing a petcock mod you should get it running alot better than it ever was...

Another thing you can do is try if its running too lean lowering the c-clip on the needle in the carb top slider to the lowest setting

If its running rich try leaning out the float setting a bit and changing the sparkplug out for a quality NGK brand # BPM6A or BPM5A gapped to .030"..

Good luck getting it ironed out...
 

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Do the petcock mod, new fuel lines and filter, and a breather for your tank and i bet it's cured. You have fuel restriction. And i would bet a million dollars it's that black button in the petcock deteriorating.

They just need to go ahead and put that stuff in the owners manual. Everyone who owns a china bike is on here with the same problem. Trust me, that's what brought me here.
 

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My guess is them crapy gas lines or white knob shut off valve rubber is coming apart and is clogging or the main jet and or the float bowl is dirty, or something like that. I would take the whole carb off, you can unscrew the top of the carb, leave the piston connected on the cable, and take it and the two screw in the shutoff valve and look inside.
 

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Mine started doing the same thing. The rubber in the factory white plastic fuel shut off was falling apart. Looking at doing away with the whole thing and installing an in fuel shut off.
 

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Mine started doing the same thing. The rubber in the factory white plastic fuel shut off was falling apart. Looking at doing away with the whole thing and installing an in fuel shut off.
Dragon, that's what i was talking about. It's a little black piece of rubber that looks like a button. It will get you every time.
Do the petcock modification to the stock one, and get a cheap universal shutoff. It will save you a lot of headache. Even when it's not clogged up, it still restricts the fuel flow too much. It's a very common problem.

http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/f47/petcock-mod-39248.html

Some good 1/4" fuel line and filter, and the petcock mod, and you will eliminate about 75% of your fuel problems.
 

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Plus, everytime you take your gas line or carb you don't have to drain the tank, just keep the Dave's $1.50 metal shut off valve off, saw the white knob unit and housing w/ 2, O rings online for for $6.
 

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Yes, I did, Thanks Again, I am still, LOL about the polini box you put it in.
I didn't order any Polini parts??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do the petcock mod, new fuel lines and filter, and a breather for your tank and i bet it's cured. You have fuel restriction. And i would bet a million dollars it's that black button in the petcock deteriorating.

They just need to go ahead and put that stuff in the owners manual. Everyone who owns a china bike is on here with the same problem. Trust me, that's what brought me here.


Would it make a big difference on my cags performance living in Colorado, 6,500 feet. Should i just do all the mods to it. Is it more ideal to buy a 47cc cag performance carb than mod it?

My guess is them crapy gas lines or white knob shut off valve rubber is coming apart and is clogging or the main jet and or the float bowl is dirty, or something like that. I would take the whole carb off, you can unscrew the top of the carb, leave the piston connected on the cable, and take it and the two screw in the shutoff valve and look inside.


Would it make a big difference on my cags performance living in Colorado, 6,500 feet. Should i just do all the mods to it. Is it more ideal to buy a 47cc cag performance carb than mod it?
 

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Think it could be the jet, not getting enough fuel into the carb. Might want to pick up a jet pack, and go up a size or two.
 

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It might be the opposite though Spyguy. If you are at higher elevation the air is thinner, making a bike that runs correctly at sea level too rich for the thin air. The thinner the air being fed into the carb, the less fuel you need to keep the same air:fuel ratio. The bike would need a smaller jet in that case. And a jet too big will make the bike bog like he was saying. I would get a different carb that has a mixture screw on it so it can be dialed in for being ran in such a thin atmosphere.
 

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I have the same problem. Stopped working after a month. Died when you gave it gas and eventually died on startup. I want to try all of the fixed mentioned above but I don't know anything about bikes. Is there a diagram or video anywhere for cags?
 

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I have the same problem. Stopped working after a month. Died when you gave it gas and eventually died on startup. I want to try all of the fixed mentioned above but I don't know anything about bikes. Is there a diagram or video anywhere for cags?
Sounds like you need a good old carb/fueltank cleaning/cleansing and while your at it inspect/flip the reeds.........Change the sparkplug and the fuellines/fuelfilter to 1/4" too......

Sparkplug is NGK BM6A gapped to .030"....also look into the "Petcock mod" and perform the task............

Do a search here for stock carb cleaning tutorial or go to utube.....Good luck
 

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My 2 cents worth is, drop the float bowl, and take the 2 brass jets out with a blade screwdriver. There is the long pilot jet about a .020" hole & holes in the holding barrel, got to be clean, carb spray won't do it. Bike will not run if it gets dirty. Will it start up and run with the choke 3/4 closed, that's another sign it's clogged cause it's running of the choke jet and not the pilot jet. Next, unscrew the short main and the tube it's mounted in and clean it good. I use old electric guitar strings and run the thru with cleaner. All the little holes in the mouth of the carb, use cleaner and blow them out with air if you have any. That's for a 4 stroke, the 2 stroke has a main jet make sure its clean and no dirt in the float bowl, and the float level is right.
 

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My 2 cents worth is, drop the float bowl, and take the 2 brass jets out with a blade screwdriver. There is the long pilot jet about a .020" hole & holes in the holding barrel, got to be clean, carb spray won't do it. Bike will not run if it gets dirty. Will it start up and run with the choke 3/4 closed, that's another sign it's clogged cause it's running of the choke jet and not the pilot jet. Next, unscrew the short main and the tube it's mounted in and clean it good. I use old electric guitar strings and run the thru with cleaner. All the little holes in the mouth of the carb, use cleaner and blow them out with air if you have any. That's for a 4 stroke, the 2 stroke has a main jet make sure its clean and no dirt in the float bowl, and the float level is right.
Yep EPR is right.....Ethanol coats things in layers and will turn a #68 jet into a #64 and youd hardly notice it because most are going by a clear pathway when judging if a jet is clean....

I dip my jets in muriatic acid for 15-20 seconds sometimes longer if super severe..........sometimes i put a lil m/a in the bowl too if its really -really dirty

They come out looking not brassy but theyre super clean and able to clean-up nicely with a piece or steel wool and a lil metal polish...............:thumbsup:
 

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What happened to D Mack, I have his parents address in Ohio or somewhere back there, has not been here for a long time??
 

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I almost done with my carb. I did the port intake and exhaust of the carb, but is it a pain to have it dialed. Its so erratic, sometimes its leaking, sometimes it is not. Put a new gasket and now is leaking through the line overflow. Adjusted the bowl fork a tad bit and seems to help. I am getting a little blank spot somewhere at mid range.

The bike does start right away no hassles, and shuts down when engaging the choke like its suppose to. Revs pretty good, is very responsive but the 8/60 does not help much on hitting that pipe well. It does have a late kick top end and once its there it will keep on going. Then again the dreaded bowl kicks in and stutters. I have to stop, flip it to the side and hit the bowl outercase a few times, then I can go back and ride.

So far contemplating a new carb as all these are chinese crap.

I was looking into this carb...

 

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That's the same type of carb that was installed on my vintage Craftsman backpack blower, lol. I'f I were you, I'd slap on a WYK-192 replica carb with the matching plastic reed manifold on that engine and call it done... The venturi on the carb is 15mm and meters the amount of gas flow... The difference in performance between the two doesn't even compare... It's like a whole different engine now... The cost of the upgrade is $25. Sound like a good idea yet? :rolleyes: lolol
 

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Trouble with the 15mm China pumper carb for a Cag is it has a gas return line, back to the tank or you can tee into the inlet line. On my Lucky 7 custom bike w/ a China Walbro WT-603, the gas return line goes to the gas cap w/ brake bleeding screw. The best Walbro for a Cag is HDA48D 16mm with no bulb or return line, but then you need an $18 alum Walbro to Cag intake manifold and Dave's af310 DDM tall RC/CY velocity stack 19/44mm onsale $4.99 till Friday, fits any Cag 44mm ID air filter, and a swivel & throttle holder.
I have a bunch of the HP 14/14mm China SHA carbs and the alum manifolds, the one in the photo is mounted on the carb upside down, lol. The best part is it is easy to drill & thread a hole for boost fitting on top the intake manifold w/ 5/16" brass barb fitting and 1/8" female pipe threads in the manifold and a boost bottle. The only adjustment is the idle and main jet. Have you tried a bigger main jet in your modded stock carb??
 

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