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I swappped the whole carb, back to tuning the bike as the one installed its stock w no port mod and wanted to see how it ran. The neighbors got to be loving me w the sound of the pipe in the street.

There is no choice as its test and tune. I want to swap to the recommended carb here on this thread but I dont know about the matching reeds etc.

I did notice the carb giving me headaches had a crappy float bowl needle, instead of the usual rubber tip it had a smaller all metal bowl needle.

The reed engines are basically bullet proof, the weak link is the carb. Its running good now, but I do know I lost that extra punch like it had before. The JB weld is dry so today will install the modded valve, better fuel lines, fuel cap mod and new gaskets.
 

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You could be too rich and flooding the engine when you open the throttle, cause real lean make the engine rev out of control. What size main jet does the stock & modified carb have?? A tuned ported carb lets air thru faster, that's probably why it's slower than before. I would take the bored carb apart again and look for problems. If you have a .70mm main jet try a .68mm. A lot of my P/P and reed port engines have different Walbro pumper carbs, on an alum adaptor $18 manifold. Cost near $100 to switch for the carb & for all the parts you need. But the easy to adjust, with a high and low jets screws on the side like a chain saw. No float bowl or needle, no gas tank turn off valve to leak, etc. Some have a return gas line, you have to deal with, the best for a Cag is a 16mm HDA48D has no return line and with an alum manifold you can drill & tap and put a brass barb fitting for adding a boost bottle.
You can see the Walbro 16mm HDA48D carb on my twin drag engine project.
 

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Sorry if this is a bad post, but I need help with my bike but it won't allow me to create a thread asking for help does anyone know why? I'm a new member.

I just got a brand new cag bike, a cheap chinese one, i can get it started just fine but when I throttle it bogs out and turns off. Surely the carberator isn't blocked up just yet since it's brand new, any suggestions on what to try?
 

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You have 5 posts now, you should be able to post, have an avatar photo and post 5 small photos on each post and or thread. Avatar is in the Control Panel button, you up load photos from your computer, phone or the internet. Avatar 90Kb., photos 512Kb. or less.
If you still have problems, send a report thru the Website Bugs Section on the main forum page.
 

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So I have a 2011 47cc cagllari pocket bike from minipocketrockets.com. After a month or so after break in period it started bogging down/dying. Frustrated from working on it So much, i just decided to buy a new motor. And around the same time a month later the new motor did the same exact thing! I have the air/fuel mixture screw set to a good idle, But once I pull back on the throttle sounds as if its running out of gas, about to die, which eventually happens?marcelo
Need Some Help Please! its really depressing, Almost losing sleep over the **** thing.:eek:
Hey there my name is jay I'm having the same same issue its start very weak after I try giving it throttle it stall out. I need help with this before getting rid of it.
 

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Hey, old thread but, is the bike used?? If yes you will need to clean the fuel system and clean the carburetor. Main jet, bowl, petcock.
 

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Hey, old thread but, is the bike used?? If yes you will need to clean the fuel system and clean the carburetor. Main jet, bowl, petcock.
It's a used pocket bike. I already clean out the entire card still can't accelerate when it start up! 🤷‍♂️
 

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If there is a vacuum leak like between the intake manifold and block or the crankcase seals they will do that as well
 

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Does it sound like it's the engine or does it do nothing? Possible throttle cable oh, I probably recheck your spark make sure it's blue and not yellow, do some preliminaries and let us know.
 

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Check around the intake manifold to make sure it's not warped or cracked sometimes the bolts tighten up from the vibration and it over tightens itself and warps or cracks...

A lot of times when the Chinese build these engines they don't push the crankcase seals in far enough and it's only sealing on the tapered part of the crankshaft this works okay until the engine gets a couple years old and the seals start to shrink up and then they leak causing this exact problem that you're having. I have taken the flywheel and clutch off and taped the seals in a bit farther and then they run great again other times the seals can dry rot and crack and then you have to replace them.

Check the head bolts if they are lose you'll need to replace the base gasket this is highly unlikely because the Chinese use a lot of plumbing sealant to glue these parts together ( yes that's right that stuff is plumbing sealant and supposed to be used for pipes )
 

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Yes I have had them literally sink into the plastic intake manifold...
 

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I have also never had that happen. I have worked on probably 100 pocket bikes and never ever seen the bolts over tighten themselves while running. Definitely seen loose and intakes and carburetors fall off.
 
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