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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey looking for anyone who can help. I have a ten+ year old polini 910 carena s, and I'm pretty sure it's all stock still. I was wondering what the best fuel-oil ratio is? Also what are some of the best initial upgrades to make on the bike? It already out performs my friends cab by miles, what else can really leave him In the dust? Thanks!
 

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Put an 8 tooth front sprocket on it....40:1 ratio is what I ran my Polini 910 on..Those racebikes require something like 32-36:1 in race conditions..........
 

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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I believe the seven tooth is the stock one, so if I put the 8 tooth in it that will just give it better top speed, correct? Should I change the rear one as well to make the ratio accurate?
 

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Yes, I believe the seven tooth is the stock one, so if I put the 8 tooth in it that will just give it better top speed, correct? Should I change the rear one as well to make the ratio accurate?

Yes a larger pinion makes more topend....My polini 910 had a 6 tooth pinion......As far as changing the rear sprocket its up to you and your want to tackle the task......
 

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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #5
I'll do that. Any other good and easy upgrades? I was thinking of getting the dual front disk breaks, the bike has a lot of power, it doesn't quite have the breaks to match.
 

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I'll do that. Any other good and easy upgrades? I was thinking of getting the dual front disk breaks, the bike has a lot of power, it doesn't quite have the breaks to match.
Take 100 grit sandpaper,, rough-up the pads and de-glaze the rotors..............The other would be to upgrade to hydro brakes.......
 

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Don't think the Cag - X7, $60 a set hydraulic brakes kits would bolt up to a Polini brake brackets. What is the C to C on the mount holes??
 

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I sent you a PM.
 

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My Polini 910 had the same cable brakes and it did front wheel stoppies aswell as rearwheel skidouts........You may just need to adjust the squeeze pressure on the pads....

Theres a nut that holds the brake actuator arm onto the caliper..In the center of that is a tiny allen screw........loosen the nut and turn the screw in til the screw stops and then back off a 1/4 turn...............They should stop alot better
 

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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #11
Yea, I have the tightness all tuned, the braking powers just isn't relative enough to handle the smaller tracks. Maybe the dual front disk brake upgrade???
 

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Yea, I have the tightness all tuned, the braking powers just isn't relative enough to handle the smaller tracks. Maybe the dual front disk brake upgrade???
Nah...Go for the hydro front brake setup......Leave the rear as cable brake and get some better quality brake pads and deglaze the rotors......I have a feeling your rotors are too glazed up not to mention need some crossdrilling........
 

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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #13
I thought about cross drilling, I just don't wanna ruin them if I mess up. Any particular style work well? Or just make sure they are even?
 

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I thought about cross drilling, I just don't wanna ruin them if I mess up. Any particular style work well? Or just make sure they are even?
Id try 4 holes in the center of the rotor at North south east and west and 4 more in-between then countersink them a lil..If the gases dont escape fast enough.... double the holes........Flat rotors get gas trapped between the brake pad and the rotor when friction builds..Those gasses push the brakepads away from the rotor diminishing braking effectiveness and grab........
 

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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #15
Makes perfect sense, I think I will do that. Never thought of it that way. Good tips!
 

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I tried to drill my A2 Cag front disc, ruined the drill, them gold drills, Bosch to not junk. Your quality is even better, the material is very hard, need a diamond drill or endmill and drill press or Bridgeport Mill, so be careful.
 

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I GIVE 2 CENTS
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Discussion Starter #17
Right right. I think I have a buddy who has a diamond drill. Thanks for the heads up!
 

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Thread cutting fluid helps cutting and keep the friction & heat down. A little can is $3 or kool mist on a Mill. I have alum and steel fluid I use all the time.
 
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